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About mycars12

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    Orlando Fl

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  1. Just curious as to how you added camber in the rear. Cut and welded the ends of the beam?
  2. The evo arp ones that I had installed had a different spline count as well and they went in fine with some patience. Knurl diameter was almost spot on though. If the hubs get messed up you can always get a set off ebay.
  3. I have a tercel so im not exactly sure if the hubs are 100% the same but share similar parts. I am using ARP 100-7717 which is evo studs. They are really long tho. Works well as long as you get the studs in straight. I can post pics if you want.
  4. I cant tell you how many time I have seen this on fresh builds. Milky oil because of it.
  5. I would be interested in getting one if it ever gets produced.
  6. Well. The problem was fixed. Seems like my aeromotive fuel pump was not holding pressure when shut off. I checked it after @RobSR told me about that. Swapped the original fpr on and the car is actually running very smooth now. Thanks for the help!
  7. Just curious as to why it will be running 2 different wheel sizes.
  8. @RobSR thats a really sweet build. Loving that irs setup in the rear. What size wheels are those that he is running? Is it a circuit build? @wickedep at that power will you hook on the dyno? 🤣 Looks like you are getting close to karot with his 5e tercel power wise
  9. Alright. I will try to find one locally and try it out to see if its fixes the problem and will report back. When i turn the key to the ignition position the pressure reads 0 on the fuel pressure regulators gauge. Gauge really only moves when the car is on. Thanks!
  10. It is a stock ep82 4efte so stock injectors and stock ecu. I believe the stock injectors are 295 and the ecu is a 2 plug. Any solutions to try and hold pressure? The problem is only mostly when it is hot though. If the regulator didnt hold pressure at all how come it would start fine when warm and hard when warm? Wouldnt it start hard all the time?
  11. I have a ep82 4efte motor and I have recently been having a problem with the car not wanting to start easily when warm. Basically it starts fine when the car has sat for 4 or more hours but less than that and the car will crank for about 6-8 seconds and it will slowly turn on but then it will have a low idle around 600 rpm for a little before it goes up to 950-1000 (where my idle is set) also reads lean at 16.5-17 when idling low in the 600's then goes to 14.4-14.8 when 950-1000 rpm. I have a (kinda new 6 months old) aeromotive fpr and it reads 0 when the key is in the ignition position and as soon as the car shuts off the pressure goes to 0 as well. I also do have a brand new fuel pump and it did not make a difference. Battery is new as well 2 months old. Any suggestions?
  12. Usually to remove all that you need to hot tank cause it is hard to get out. Check your oil and see if you see anyfragments or you might even have to remove your oil pan to check. I had a flickering oil light before and it was due to the connector on my oil pressure sensor being loose but you can double check it.
  13. You definitely got a driver modt there 😎. Looks like that td04 is doing well on that stock motor. How much boost you pushing and is it a hybrid? You seem to be going into those corners harder than the evos. Got any engine bay shots? I thought about getting the whiteline front swaybar but I thought it would cause more understeer. Any input on the front bar?
  14. Alright I appreciate the info! Its a bolt on affair?
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