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About wakeabby14

  • Rank
    Boosting a Starlet
  • Birthday 12/01/1993

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  • Interests
    Working on the glanza, Gaming, fishing and riding pit bikes
  • Build Thread

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  1. No shot blasting or powder coating its polished by hand oh well shit happens i guess. Oh dont worry i will hahah! Its getting seen through 10000% i recon car will be on the dyno with in 6-8 weeks. Onward and upwards from here! Updates coming soon
  2. All bearings are fine already checked them which is good news! Should be on the road in a few weeks cant wait! cheers buddy
  3. Over due update... Hi everyone! Not good news I'm afraid but it will be fully resolved shortly., Here goes... So after about 2 months of on and off trouble shooting me and rob fisher managed to get the car started (YEY!). Car was not starting due to 2 fouled plugs, spark was just not strong enough, plus maybe a few bad earths! Here is where it gets bad... While me and rob was sorting the ignition timing out with a timing light I noticed an oil leak from the front left corner of the block, I was like ok annoying as fuck but ill whip the cams out and check the headbolt torques just in case one was slightly loose. When taking the cams out i noticed all of the seats the cams sit in were scored and so were the cam shafts. Still not sure what caused this issue as the cams were installed to OEM spec. So after all the hours of getting the car running its now off the road again as the cylinder head is toast. At this point i was so angry i almost broke the car as im so deep into this build and really struggling now to justify any more funds into it as im buying a house soon! Ill put pics below of the marks on the cams etc... Luckily one of the starlet lads found out what happened and sent me a free set of stock cams to help me get on my way back to fixing it! I was also rather lucky as a local scrap yard had a starlet and i went with a friend to pull the engine and we wipped the head off for £25! Once i had the head back to mine i gave it a quick power wash and de-grease and sent it off to Liam coleman at LC_porting for a full port. Once the port was finished liam sent the head to a garage called "The Car Kitchen" To get a 3 angle valve job, skim, chemical clean, Shimming up and full assembly. I also cleaned up the sump really well inside so all the oil will be super clean for the next first start also accompanied with a new oil filter. I'm Still waiting for the head back now should have it next week hopefully then i can get the car put back together and get it running reliably and get it mapped at Racecal in the coming weeks. Out for now updates coming soon! Here are some photos of the port and the damage to the head.
  4. Thanks so much! I am very proud of the progression i have made with this build! Yeah the RW catch can has a breather port on the under side about 1/2 inch wide
  5. Also what i forgot to mention is while your cylinder head is off your best of doing new valve stem seals getting it skimmed etc also i would 100% recommend uprated valve springs as the stock springs are fairly soft and under high boost you will get valve float. Cheers Josh
  6. HI LADS ALL SORTED AND FIXED!! my brother came down today to give me a hand and we found the wires that needed to be connected back together again! so nice easy fix thank god, thanks for the input boys! case closed on this one
  7. Thanks mate appreciate it! Thanks a lot! cant beat a bit of attention to detail!
  8. Good looking build mate! If i was you i would avoid a TD05 it will be quite laggy unless you get a decent amount of headwork done, You would be better off getting a TD04 Hybrid and getting a good manifold kit from the guys at WEPR (wickedEP racing). You dont want to run too big power on an emanage ecu as its piggy back and you have less control over the management. You would be more than happy with the car running around 300-340bhp. Also when you start getting closer to the 350ish bhp range you start needing better ignition systems like Coil on plug which can only be ran by standalone management systems generally due to spark blow out. With the engine building side of things I would find a local engine builders to look at your block and crack condition etc then decide what bits to buy from there to forge it and assemble it your self, As TD will probably take a long time to build your engine as a few people have been waiting a while i've heard for their engines to come back they dont have a massive amount of guys there working so its not like turnover is super quick. If i was you and your builders say the block and crank are in good condition i would buy the following. 74.5mm Wossner pistons 8:0.1 (0.5mm over bore) Forged connecting rods (your choice on brand you can go for.. SCAT, PEC, MAXSPEEDING depends on budget and goals etc) ACL Full engine Bearing set COMETIC MLS headgasket (thickness dependent on engine builders recommendation) ARP Crank bolts/studs ARP Headbolts New water pump New oil pump Full OEM toyota seal set I would also get your rocker cover modified to support AN10 fittings to support better engine breathing to relieve crank case pressure at higher boost, At least 430CC injectors (or if you can afford them ID1050x injectors probs best you can get on the market) then just supporting mods like decent clutch, good oil etc. Let us know how you get on! IM JOSH by the way!
  9. Update! Hello everyone again have an update to share some good news and some bad bit i will sort the bad out! So the engine bay is fully finished now not really anything else i want to do with it it looks amazing now that the WEPR inlet manifold is fully fitted and all the wiring is all tidied up. So what i have done over the last week or so is i have made up a proper AN6 fuel line witha built in AN6 filter and got rid of the stock OEM fuel filter to remove clutter and also make space for the intake manifold. I have also wired in a new AEM wideband gauge and sensor and linked it into the linkECU and also wired up an antilag switch ready for mapping, I have also tucked the LINK ecu behind the main center console and secured the ECU mount in there by 4 screws and cut a hold in the side of the glove box for easy access for USB connection to the laptop for mapping/diag. Also made a switch panel for it all to go in! Ok so the bad bit.. I have been having voltage issues as stated in my last post and weird electrical bugs where the car would only crank over 5-10 times before cutting off. SO to rule out an immobliser fault i have cut out my TOAD alarm system but now the car wont turn over and the fuel pump wont prime. I have all dash lights but nothing happens when you turn the key. Which really sucks as i cut out over 15 wires that the alarm was connected to and now i need to trace wires around to find the fix. I ahve my brother coming down on monday and he is an auto electrician so hopefully we find the issue. I have been informed by a few members on here when alarms are installed the fuel pump wires and ignition wires are usually cut and bypassed to the aftermarket alarm system so fingers crossed i just need to find the 2 cut wires and route them back to the original location and it should start! Time will tell here are some photos to enjoy in the meantime of the bay LOOKS BLOODY AMAZING! cant wait for meets this year and show it off. Old alarm removed New AN6 fuel line made with AN6 inline filter New center console panel made up with switches and AEM wideband! Link ECU tucked behind dash and glove box USB route made Juicy engine bay pics!
  10. Ok mate thanks i will get some photos for you and post them in this post for you shortly thanks
  11. Hi mate its a toad Ai606 i believe, I hope its that easy! Ill have to take a look thanks for the input ill let you know how i get on!
  12. Hi everyone i hope one of you will help me fixing my problem. I have fucked up somewhere and now my car will not turn over at all. So... I removed my toad alarm from under my drivers side dash as i have been having starting issues and voltage drops so i was removing it to narrow any issues down. Now my fuel pump no longer primes and the starter motor will not engage at all. I must have removed 15 different wires that was connected to the toad alarm however all the toad alarm wires were spliced into the main loon so i did not break any connections i just cut the spliced wires. Anyone have any ideas or have an interior wiring diagram for a glanza i could use to try and find the problem im really stuck.
  13. Yeah the car has no heater controls anyway and half the airbox is missing inside the car so i have just looped the hoses on the block, plus the hoses were in the way of the new inlet mani anyway so win win!
  14. Update! Been a little while but not too long since my last update so here we go! Recently i have been a little burnt out with the car after it not starting etc so had a little break but I have started working on it again! so... I have received my WEPR inlet manifold which i stole for a bargain price of £270 posted with throttle body and also a honda TPS sensor could not be happier with the deal i got! So i have got around to fitting that and luckily i have a few friends with honda's so managed to steal a TPS loom plug connector off my mate Jack so i can run the honda TPS with the link ECU so cheers for that mate! I have also been doing a bit of wire tidying up in the bay and tucked everything as best as i can, I have also fitted AN fittings to the fuel rail and removed the stock filter for an inline one. Just need to make up the braided fuel line to finish it off on that side of things. I have also ordered a 90' silicone elbow to sort my piping out in the bay with the change of route with the new intake manifold. I also decided to clean the underside of the bonnet and front main crash/support bar that folds the latch for the bonnet as it was filthy and in a bit of a bad state and letting the bay down due to years of dirt and muck clinging to it. I have also decided to gold tape the underside of the bonnet to make it pop a bit more unfortunately I have ran out of gold tape to finish the last bits off but have ordered more just waiting on it to arrive. Future plans now to finish the car is... 1) Checking all timing related stuff! Cams, Cam belt etc ready for first start on the link 2) Fit walbro 255 fuel pump 3) Make new centre console panel for AEM wideband gauge and toggle switches for anti lag and other features 4) Wide in AEM wideband into Link ECU for data logging 5) Sort intercooler piping 6) Vac and clean the car 7) once garages are open again get my local exhaust specialist to modify my TD 3inch exhaust to suit my down pipe! .8 Finally get my car rebooked for mapping with racecal will hopefully make 400+bhp! and get the running in miles done.
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