hopalong_neil

Thanks @Claymore, funnily enough I had come across that post when searching the forum for knock (all 77 pages...)

When I rewired yesterday I made sure that the signal wire is connected to the knk pin (number 23 I recall) on the ecu plug, shield wire starts an inch back from the plug at terminates at the ecu under sensor ground. I also redid my earth's so all connect to the chassis as a point of reference rather than some connecting to the battery, some connecting to the chassis etc. With the ecu connected, all sensor earth give a good connection to the chassis but on starting the issue still persists... 

On, so I've rechecked the knock sensor wiring, and even re-made it as it had a couple of joints, and also changed the knock sensor for one I had on the block of an old gt I had, and still the same thing... 

The odd thing is the code is 53, rather than the normal 52 for the knock sensor. A search of the net suggests that it is an error on the knock signal processing but this was only in relation to general Toyota error codes, nothing specific to the 4efte... 

Really banging my head against the wall now as I want to get this fixed but I can't find anything obviously wrong with the knock circuit... 

I've managed to find an old thread where someone was having a similar issue to this but on a ZEP ecu, although annoyingly no resolution, the only suggestion was to check the knock sensor wiring which I have done already but am going to do again just to be sure... 

Don't know about the blitz ecu but my gt is running the later 10100 ecu. 

I've tried swapping the connections according to the pinout for both types and still no difference... 

Ok, so I've run into a bit of an odd issue, bought a blitz access for my gt and once fitted all starts fine but as soon as you touch the throttle it throws a check light. 

If I turn the car off and check for codes it shows clear but if I start the car first then check codes after throttle blipped and engine still running I get a code 53, something to do with a secondary knock sensor?

Put the original ecu back in and no check lights. 

Checked the knock sensor wiring and all tests fine from ecu to sensor plug. 

I was thinking it might somehow relate to the wiring if the blitz was for a Mk1 so I've run through the two diagrams and changed the sensor ground on the large connector, and boost control on the small one but still the same issue. 

Anyone have any ideas? 

Awesome, in that case could you please pm me with prices for the following:

1. SS top mount manifold kit

2. SS FF manifold kit

Both to suit TD/VF flanges and a 2 bolt tial wastegate.

Also any advice or pros and cons comparing these two based on my setup of a forged engine with a billet vf35 turbo and standalone ECU.

Thanks

Probably a dumb question but did you check all of the plug leads? 

When I refitted my gearbox I was leaning over on the engine to fit the selector cables and had dislodged a plug lead into the dizzy cap which wasn't overly apparent until I stated the car and had a similar running issue. 

Would you sell the manifold, downpipe and screamer without the turbo or wastegate? 

13 hours ago, mark1991 said:

They are made in china and for sale on eBay for £275.

 

I have had one and so has gary91

Ok, thanks for the info.

Well based on £275+£50 P&P brand new from China, VAT of 20% and 6% import duty (tariff code 7616999009) that would technically put a brand new one at a total of £403.

That may put my price of £375 delivered plus fees at the optimistic end but as I've said, I'm open to sensible offers so anyone is more that welcome to suggest a price.

I've got to admit I don't actually know. 

I bought it from a member on here a few years back but I don't recall a manufacturer being mentioned and I've not seen any makers marks on it. 

Would you consider splitting the manifold, downpipe and screamer? 

Bump 

Open to sensible offers. 

Hi mate, I have one of each from an old block I have, pm me if your still looking 

Hi there 

I have a set somewhere that I took out of my gt before I broke it, exactly which ones are you looking for? 

That's a fair point, the sensor I used was from my old gt but I guess there is nothing to say it has died since last using it... 

Time to get the multimeter out I think... 

Thanks 

Ok people, need some ssistance with an issue that's doing my head in.

First some history, after failing an MOT on some rot, and then discovering a whole more I managed to find a decent shell with a standard motor which had spun a bearing, which was perfect for an engine change as mine was forged.

In the end, as the standard engine had only run 20,000 miles since I rebuild, I used that head on my forged block, and all went well with the swap.

The problem now however, is that I can't get it to hold at 14.7afr at idle or fast idle, with the best I can do around 13.3.

The puzzle is that as the engine warms up the afr performs as expected starting rich but gradually leaning out and during this process, the afrs will actually hit around 14, but as soon as you touch and release the throttle they drop to 13.3 on idle and don't change.

The car is running standard with the exception of a turbo back exhaust, induction kit and FMIC.

I have checked the TPS calibration, changed the O2 and ECU coolant sensors and checked the wiring. I've also run through all vac hoses to confirm no leaks.

The car does have a Walbro GM250 fuel pump fitted but having researched this it flows the same as a standard fuel pump.

The slightly odder things is that, having it in diagnostic mode and altering the timing slighlty brought the afr back to the correct 14.7, however, once you come out of diagnostic mode it runs slightly richer then back to the 13.3 as soon as you blip the throttle again. This might suggest that there is a duff sensor somewhere that is not used during diagnostic mode but is during normal operation but A I'm not sure if this is how it works, and B, there are no fault codes present.

I do have a couple more things that I might try but before I give up on the car does anyone have any ideas what this could be or what to try next?

Also, am I right in thinking that the engine operates in two modes, the first when under vacuum using the O2 sensor to control mixture based on water and air temperature, and the second when under boost with the mixture controlled by the map sensor for a given air and water temperature, and if this is the case, it is the map sensor signal that defines this?

To me there only seems like a small number of inputs that control mixture but having checked them all out, I'm at a loss as to what is causing this.

For sale my uprated inlet manifold which comes complete with an oversized throttle body. 

Had this running on my old starlet gt and really seemed to make a difference in spool time on the 20t td04 that I also had fitted. 

Only selling as I broke my old starlet and am planning to run my current one as stock. 

Price £375 including mainland postage and PayPal fees. 

Glanza or GT as I believe that they're the same

Anyone out there got a standard fuel pump. 

Need one ASAP as the motor is out of mot and running rich with a uprated one fitted. 

8 hours ago, maerijn said:

Have they become yellow? They are plastic so you could refurbish them

Yeah, yellow and crazed in the middle. 

I thought about a refurb, I take it the lenses are glued in as they didn't budge when I removed the clips? 

Anyone know where I can get a new set? My ones are pretty ropey and I'd prefer to keep the original look rather than do a quad light conversion from my old motor. 

Hi mate, this still available? 

Cheers 

Doh, sorry, that will teach me not to read posts quickly whilst I'm skiving at work...

Having read again I would tend to be in agreement with RobSR. As the EMU is a piggy back, the output duty should be the figure based on changes made considering the EMU map.

Its been a while now since I had my EMU but if I understand correctly you could log either figures? Can you log both?

If you've upgraded your Injectors then the lower figure would be the signal you need, but if you've kept stock Injectors but running higher boost so more fuel, then the higher figure would be correct.

I had asked a similar question when I setup and mapped by emu.

The one response I had was to set them both the same (or both to zero) and just adjust the map accordingly.

As a point of clarification as I understand it, the injector settings in the EMU are used to assist with scaling the fuelling for when injector sizes are upgraded from stock, hence the before and after figures.

I upgraded from stock to 430's and so matched the response time and just updated the flow rate as a starting point. I was then able to adjust the fuel map to suit the correct figures on idle and then mapped for boost from there.

Sold, please lock