Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Claymore

  • Rank
    Settled In Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Build Thread

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Fuel tanks should be able to breath in and out, or vacuum is created when fuel is used or temperature decreases and as temp. increases pressure builds up in the tank. Are you sure its vacuum and not pressure? I know the systems are slightly different but I have attached a diagram detailing the corolla 92-97 4efe setup. Might be of some help to get the brain thinking or following hoses around the engine bay. The TVV valve on the corolla (and starlet) is a coolant temperature dependant open / close valve situated on the thermostat housing. Is this replaced with a solenoid on the 4efte?
  2. Excellent work, great write up too. 👍
  3. Thanks James, I have been impressed with your build thread also, great level of detail and well written.
  4. 4efe Coil replacement: Whilst replacing the previous components I notice the coil contact was on the rusty side so decided to replace it. With the dizzy cap off the rusty terminal was obvious, not much clean metal to make contact with the cap contact. Then the dust / protective shield can be removed (yes, the one with don't remove moulded onto it!) by stretching the sides out, off the clips on the coil. Then you can access the 2 x terminals underneath to remove the nuts and release the connected wires. This only leaves the 4 x screws on the top of the coil to remove. The coil is sealed to the distributor body with sealant which I carefully overcame by tilting the coil up. There is a rubber gasket seal that was stuck with sealant to the distributor body which you have to be careful not to break trying to remove it or when lifting the coil. I left it in place and slid coil out. The important stuff found below, 4 bladed trigger wheel with dual pickup, igniter assembly, condenser. There is also a single bladed wheel in front of the 4 bladed wheel that doesn't have a pickup as far as I can see? Might be possible to use this for cam position for sequential management? Any how, replacement coil with sealant spread ready for assembly. I got quite excited seeing the amount of effort and engineering Toyota have put into the distributor assembly. The red highlights below show there are two tracks in the coil casing to keep the wires to the coil terminal tidy and safe away from the rotating trigger wheel below. The posts circled in yellow are there for the wire ring connectors to stop against as you tighten the terminal nuts preventing the wires being damaged from turning with the nut. Re assembled coil to dizzy, wires on terminals, pressed into coil tracks, then dust shield back on. Also noted on the back of the dust cover there is a flat hood section that extends under the coil to prevent any wires that come loose from dropping down onto the rotating assembly! Belt and braces Toyota, love it! If you made it this far, well done and thanks for sticking with it. 😜 Put the dizzy cap back on (which has a sliding fit over the dust shield and coil to prevent the dust shield detaching from the coil in use.) and changed the plug leads also for new items. More suspension mods next.
  5. There is some pretty deep scoring on one of the no.1 cam journals though. Might clean up might not.
  6. Speaking of overpriced rocking horse sh!t https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Genuine-95-99-Toyota-Cynos-Paseo-L50-1-5L-5E-FHE-Engine-Camshaft-Cam/124247518298?hash=item1cedbaac5a%3Ag%3Ay84AAOSw1tVfANXb&LH_ItemCondition=4 Not checked the part numbers out No connection etc... Might be of interest to someone.
  7. Distributor cap and rotor arm replacement: Carrying on the theme from last time I decided the dizzy cap and rotor arm needed replacing, bought an Intermotor cap and a Beru rotor arm. Removed old cap with leads still attached by unscrewing the 3 x fixing screws. Old cap was showing signs of spark erosion and corrosion on the terminals. Plenty of white crusty build up. Also some rust dust which I will come to later. Removed the old rotor arm by pulling out, away from engine (was very stiff to remove). Fitted the replacement rotor and noticed straight away that it sat closer to the distributor than the original Denso item. Swapped the old leads over to the new cap one at a time to prevent mix ups (thankfully the old cap has the plug wire positions moulded next to the posts.) re assembled and test started the engine. Sounded fine but I wanted to see how the new rotor arm was performing. Removed the cap and the spark erosion was at the tip of the terminal, Ok when new, but as the terminal is eroded it would have increased the gap making it harder for the spark to jump. Decided to make a non conductive polymer shim by cutting the side of a nylon washer with some poultry shears. This washer shim was the thickness required to move the rotor back out to the original rotors position. Seated snuggly in the arm so it wouldn't fall out. Re-installed, I checked the distance and it matches the original. Replaced cap, ran engine and inspected cap again! Erosion now in the middle of the cap terminals as it should be. This is supposed to be the easy stuff! Toyota O.E. parts next time I think. Old cap to show wire positions.
  8. Welcome to the forum, don't forget to start a build thread. https://www.ukstarletowners.com/forum/70-ep91-progress-blogs/
  9. Really impressed mate, great design and fabrication work. Even anodised your own parts. Top work
  10. Spark plug change. Bought some NGK BKR5EYA plugs as these are the standard plug specified for the N/A Starlet. Checked the hole for debris before removing the old spark plugs one at a time using a 16mm magnetic spark plug socket. They felt pretty sticky but thankfully came out without issue. WD40 can help but I was ok without. Greeted by the the wrong spark plug! It had BCPR6ES plugs in it for some unknown reason. Not only the wrong heat range but the height of the plug from the sealing washer upwards was longer by about 4mm. Hence the reason the HT leads never really pressed down to the cam cover properly. Thankfully the plug length into the head was the same or the tops of the pistons may have introduced themselves. 😱 The new plugs were the correct gap from factory so I installed them one at a time, I like to turn the socket anti-clockwise until I hear the "click" of the first thread engaging with the head to prevent cross threading. Then thread them in by hand and finally attach the torque wrench and tightened to 18Nm. I don't use anti seize compound on the threads as the spark plug manufacturers say not to, it also affects the torque applied. Quite easy and necessary by the looks of the old / wrong plugs. NGK code data from NGK website for those who are interested in that sort of thing.
  11. I've made a rubbing of a standard 4efte exhaust manifold flange which should help. PM me your postal address (If you can, sometimes new accounts don't have the privilege) I can't PM you. Or post up an email address and we'll sort it out that way.
  12. Well I'll have a look to see how complex it becomes, I've already got an fte pump but was hoping to change as little as possible. Probably less work to make my own lower bracket from scratch to clear the filter housing and match up to the fe pump Lol.
  13. Thanks mate, I'm plodding on with the repair and maintenance side of things first, it was a bit neglected when I found it but it was a solid base to start from. Occasionally I treat myself to an actual performance mod to keep the spirits up! 😀👍
  14. Engine oil and filter change. The service history of Nanza is patchy at best so with no recent record of servicing I decided best to start from scratch. Bought 10w 40 semi synthetic oil, Bosch filter, Toyota drain seals, 65mm oil filter socket. Warmed up the engine to help the oil flow, then I loosened the sump drain plug with a 14mm socket, removed by hand and let drain into pan. The drain hole is on an angled area of the sump with the hole slightly above the bottom of the pan. To drain completely I raised the front of the vehicle on a jack, supported the car on axle stands to get the last of the oil to drain. Lowered the car back onto the ground. Toyota sump plug washers (90430-12031). Aluminium crush washer with paper coating. Old crush washer was of fibre construction. Probably shows how old it was! Wiped area around sump hole clean, re installed the drain plug with new crush washer and tightened to 25Nm. 65mm oil filter wrench made light work of the filter removal. I've used other types (three legged crusher types and the chain wrapped "can opener" types) but these are the cleanest / easiest. Long extension got the ratchet outside the engine bay for better clearance. New filter screwed on using rubber lined gloves for extra grip, screwed until the gasket touches the block then an extra 1/2 turn. Refilled with oil (only 2.5 litres ish!) Means I'll get 2 x changes from one bottle of oil. Previous car needed 4.5l per change. Started up, checked for leaks. All good. Emptied the drain pan and the rag I used to cleanup shows the state of the old oil, deffo needed a change. Spark plugs next.
  • Create New...