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About Claymore

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    Boosting a Starlet

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    I mainly prefer 80's and 90's cars be they N/A, turbo, supercharged or nitrous I'll give it a go. Some engineering and fabrication may even happen along the way.

    Instagram: @dan91sgarage

    Come along for the journey of budget built motors.
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  1. Great to see the progress mate. Will all be worth it in the end.
  2. It was Sam44 that suggested you use a low temp. thermostat. I just supplied the part number in case you wanted to try it. I personally don't like them and only use the normal one for the engine. In your photo it looks like the seal got pinched and cut the bottom off it. Happy that it's all sorted now.
  3. The orange "string" looks like gasket sealant used to seal the thermostat housing to the head? Too much sealant can come off and then got stuck in the thermostat I guess. Hope the heads ok. Did you use a Genuine Toyota head gasket for the rebuild?
  4. Can't see the movie. Glad you found it, where was the leak?
  5. 16284-11040 is the part number for the rubber hose that feeds coolant to and from the turbo. 2 required per vehicle. But you would see if that was the leak. Idle speed problems (2000rpm) could also be the idle air control valve. I would do a diagnostic check also just in case there are any codes. If it was my car, I would get the cooling system pressure tested at your mechanics and when you have found the problem then change the tap water for pre mixed coolant. It's unlikely to freeze in summer and it won't be in the engine long enough to do any mineral damage. Your choice really.
  6. That could be a lot of things Frankie. Coolant hose / radiator leak, should be able to see / smell. Bad radiator cap not holding pressure. Head gasket failure (is there white smoke from the exhaust or coolant and oil mixing?) was it a genuine Toyota gasket? If you take the spark plugs out and shine a torch down in to look at the pistons they should have black soot on them. If they are clean then water is steam cleaning them. The do kits to test for CO2 in coolant. The wax thermostat on the Throttle body has coolant to warm it up, could it have corroded through (high idle 2500 go
  7. Think most people used the HKS SLD, some piggyback ecu's can delete it or a speedo cable reduction gearbox. But this last one changes the speedo to mph and raises the speed limit to 180mph as far as I can remember.
  8. Great stuff! Did you buy the Turbo crankshaft or was it a nice surprise when you pulled the engine apart? Looking forward to this.
  9. I don't think it's enough, I didn't remove much material from the + in the turbo side. The big restrictions are in the #2 and #3 runners, so your restrictions are still there. My build thread shows where to remove material. Or if you don't want to grind it you should buy a tubular manifold before you increase the boost. The speed limit removal can be either electronic (hks sld) or a mechanical gearbox thing connected to the speedo drive cable, but that will change the speedo reading.
  10. Well, 1.2 bar from a stock CT9 sounds like too much to me. I don't think I'd push one that far, as I said before it will be producing very hot air and not be good for power. Most say that 1 bar is the limit really. Boost cut is around 0.8 bar so you'll have to deal with that too. You can go for a ct9 hybrid turbo if you need more power. You already have an air filter, intercooler and exhaust downpipe, fuel pump upgrade so that's good. You will need to port the restrictions from the cast exhaust manifold in runners 2 and 3 or replace it with a tubular item if your increasing the boost. If
  11. Plenty of people use TD04 setups on 4efte engines, most consider 200bhp "safe" on stock internals and the larger turbo will still be in its efficiency range where as the stock ct9 at this bhp level will most likely be off the edge of the efficiency map (high temp charge air). I don't post on the other forum but it all depends on what level you want to be involved in the tuning process and how much control you need for your build. Piggyback is basic level control, minimal wiring, only retarding timing and adjusting MAP sensor voltage to trick the Toyota ECU to adjust fuel. relatively
  12. I did find that diagram in the EP91 4efte EPC https://toyota.epc-data.com/starlet/ep91/61052/electric/8719/88444/ but when you click on it the site said it was not compatible with the vehicle. Checked the EP82 and it is listed but as you say NLA from the dealer. However, when you look at the engine for sale in the eBay ad it doesn't look like the bracket above. It looks to me like an EP82 PAS lower adjuster bracket with an idler pulley bolted through. Not a vertical sliding pulley bracket with separate tensioner bolt. I can't seem to find this setup in the Toyota
  13. Nice one, Found this in the EPC : Can't find the parts page for the idler setup though, do you have a link? Looks like a 'mare to adjust, do you just pull to tension or is it sprung loaded or eccentric bolt?
  14. Continuing the theme of Weird ass 4efte / not a 4efte bitsa engines!? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374042202483?epid=652485202&hash=item5716a71173:g:JjEAAOSw2ypiZ6DI Doesn't look too bad until you get to the PAS bracket "mod" to keep A/C and delete the pas pump, 4efe dizzy, coil, 2 plug 4efe ECU (other 2 ECU loom plugs appear to have been cut off and replaced with piggy back plug connections), forward facing thermostat cap from an auto?! Think I'll pass on that
  15. As far as I understand the emissions test a high lambda reading usually indicates an exhaust leak letting in air (oxygen) and it then shows up on the MOT testers O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe tip where they take the reading. I'd check the exhaust for leaks at all the joints, (especially the new back box) and also for holes in the pipes. Could be the engine genuinely running lean, but the other readings should show that.
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