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  1. Yeah I've read up on the historic forum posts (the dreaded no.3 piston ring land failure etc is well known), don't worry it'll be good. I have removed quite a bit of material. The no.1 and no.4 exits into the turbo flange were about 2/3rds the size of 2 and 3 once their restrictions were removed. The runners taper quite a lot as they approach this area and I've balanced it quite well. Onto the finishing stage of it now. I'll update here with a full report when its all done.
  2. Lol, very kind mate. I try my best. Almost tempted to buy another starlet spares or repairs to frag for parts for mine but I can't bring myself to take one off the road if it could be saved! Edit: Just phoned Toyota to order some nuts and bolts to fit some fte brackets to my engine and guess what!? One of the nuts is NLA but you can still buy the bolt, yay . Hopefully it's a standard thread bolt.
  3. I'm only after a mild increase in power over stock so not looking to honk out everything from every where as its not really necessary for my intended goals. I know back in the day guys were running 200bhp and 1 bar of boost with mixed results. Don't want to take it too far as there are some sections that are only about 6mm thick, then there are others that are about 15mm thick! lol. There are obstructions in all the runners to a certain degree, some worse than others. The no.2 and no.3 are the obvious and worst lumps with the ends of 1 and 4 having a weird shrouded area as it enter the turbo flange area. I'm working away at it a piece at a time and looking to remove all obstructions and increase / balance the runners diameter as they are all different! Minimal removal to get the job done and also to keep the mani strength up. I'm really enjoying the process, updates to follow.
  4. The porting has begun, going for the old school ported cast manifold. Preview of the no.3 manifold obstruction being removed. Ironically it's a bit more in keeping with the sleeper theme as well, looks like a stock CT9 and mani from the outside anyway.......
  5. Not planning on jumping ship just yet! I know you've been to the ends of the earth rooting through containers to source parts for yours, great commitment. As long as I can finish the project its all good. I've been through it once before already but its the way with all cars of this age. I dread to think the difficulties for the EP82 boys and girls out there. But a honda civic type r ep3 seems like a bargain, if you can find one without terminal rust! I was also looking at a fiesta 1.0t ecoboost to build before the starlet, would have ended up at 180bhp (briefly) and had the nostalgic hint of the daihatsu charade gtti engine wise. Too modern but easily maintained at least
  6. Turbo plans update.... To cut a long story short, I bought a top quality TD04 manifold and downpipe (that had to be returned as it was less than the quality expected), then Covid kicked off and I thought I'd take a chance on a mid range mild steel eBay mani and downpipe thinking any small issues would be easily rectified (it was the biggest pile of sh!t I've seen for a while, had to get eBay involved to return it and lost money as the exchange rate had changed so my refund was worth less that day than when I bought it ffs 😡, to add insult to injury the import customs bill arrived the day after I had returned it !). Now the state the economy is in and job prospects looking a bit ropey I've had to put my sensible hat on as I can't justify spending the money for a new item. It sucks. but it is what it is. Being as TD04 manifolds are always snapped up for people upgrading from CT9's I can't seem to find what I'm looking for at a reasonable price unless you want another turbo and a possibly fake wastegate. So.....I've shelved the TF035 for the moment (unless I fancy making a log manifold?!) and I'm going for a CT9 install instead as these are easy to come by and are cheap (at the moment). Managed to pick up a "low mileage, good condition" CT9a and stock cast manifold for £75 (much more in the price range!). There's updates to come, don't mean to seem all doom and gloom, I'm going to make the best of it as I do. Chinese eBay manifold collector, looks like its been welded on ship plate settings with the eyes firmly shut! Wastegate port hacked out of the collector with a knife and fork probably! Just the tip of the iceberg with it, warped flange, no room to place the nut and bolt because the holes are too close to the runners etc. CT9 turbo and manifold after disassembly in all its low mileage, good condition glory. At least I can progress the project now rather than waiting around. Actually looking forward to it.
  7. Cool cool. A homebrew cast top mount, love it!
  8. This is the game with 20+ year old cars unfortunately. 😪 Aftermarket maintenance parts and tuning parts supply are usually ok for years but unique O.E. parts that are model specific become harder to find. It's part of the reason I sold my previous weekend toy. The manufacturer was pretty good and offered a backorder system for NLA parts but it was quite a wait until enough orders were placed to then manufacture the next batch of parts. The problem is modern cars don't do it for me but atleast you know the parts are there.
  9. Imo the heat supplied by what ever mode to the intake air from throttle body is insignificant compared to the heat supplied by the intake ports / tract of the head that will be at operating temperature also (larger surface area). Unless the mpg test was conducted under lab conditions I'm filing it under Internet BS. I have already said why I wouldn't remove the coolant hoses. Therefore, this argument is moot anyway lol.
  10. I would start at the beginning, did the car idle ok before you changed the air filter assembly? Check that the changes you have made are all good, pipes connected correctly, electrical connectors plugged in etc. Make sure the throttle cable isn't too tight and that the throttle plate is returning to the fully closed position and is free to move without sticking. Then clean the throttle body / throttle plate with carb cleaner. spray a small amount down the bypass hole to clean the ICV. Run car to clear out cleaner. See if this changes anything.
  11. As far as I know the coolant pipes are to heat the icv as there is a bi metallic clock spring inside that contracts to move a tube that restricts the bypass air flow when up to operating temperature lowering the idle speed. Removing the coolant pipes would mean the idle would remain high. It is also debatable how much heat would be absorbed by the air flowing through the throttle body as it spends such little time passing through and air is a poor conductor of heat. Sounds like an air leak is most likely.
  12. The 4efe in the EP91 doesn't have a wax stat only the Glanza. The Idle control valve is adjusted by coolant temp. though and this affects idle speed. If your talking about covering the small square / triangle hole in the TB before the throttle plate, then that's the air bypass hole to the icv and if covered at idle there is no path for air to get into the manifold and the engine stumbles and revs drop. This is normal. Is the engine idling high? low? hunting?
  13. I'm glad you brought this up, the current system you describe seems very complicated and more components always provides more opportunity for component / system failure. Let alone the weight / packaging concerns of such a small engine bay. With variable geometry turbo's being more common place (Holset make one 😉) would it not make more sense to design a vgt install (manifold and downpipe) from the ground up thus making all the "anti lag" systems redundant? Or would an electronic wastegate give enough control of boost build and pressure instead? There seems to be alot of development of turbo design and control methods available. Looking forward to photos of the engine bay, been ages since you posted any, must look totally different to the ones from the first page.
  14. Can you describe what's happening to the idle? The movie doesn't play so we can't see or hear the problem. Some photos of the engine bay might show an obvious problem. Have you disconnected anything else like pipes or electrical connectors? Probably best to double check that everything that's been moved / added is fitted correctly and connected properly as a start. If weird things happen directly after a change is made, then its the first place to start looking.
  15. You do have to be a bit careful when stripping and plating steel components due to possible hydrogen embrittlement. Its when hydrogen permeates the steel structure during the plating process and forms tiny pockets weakening the material and can cause failures much below the bolts specified yield. The harder material / grade of bolts are more susceptible i.e. grade 8.8, 10.9 etc. After plating, the bolts should go through a de-embrittlement process to prevent this occurring.
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