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Claymore

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About Claymore

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bedfordshire
  • Build Thread
    110103

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  1. As far as I can research, the bearing shells are thinner at the parting line (where you are measuring) and should be measured at 90 degrees to the parting line with a ball anvil in the micrometer to get their true thickness. I also thought that oil clearances are measured by installing the bearing shells in the main journals and caps, adding the caps and torqueing them down. Then measuring the the central bore with a bore gauge at 90 degrees to the parting line? This gives the size of the bore with bearing installed to check against the crank main journal size to check the oil clearance?
  2. Don't know the car, but glad to hear you found one. Don't forget to start a build thread to show of your new toy.
  3. Taken from 96/97 European EP91 Toyota Electrical Manual. Speakers: RR+ = Red, RR- = white, RL+ = Black, RL- = Yellow. FR+ = Light green, FR- = blue, FL+ = Pink, FL- = Violet. Power: Constant 12v = blue with yellow stripe, acc 12v = grey, gnd = brown. Constant 12v from 10A Dome fuse (engine bay fuse box), acc 12v from 15A Rad & cig fuse (fuse box under steering column). *Can't find reference to the dark green wire though?
  4. I added more baffles...... Treated myself to a new toy for the workshop. It's the generic Chinese disc / belt sander combo that is for sale under many different brands. Deffo not industrial strength but more than capable for hobby level machining. 370w motor, 150mm disc and 100mm wide belt with a usable 100 x 300mm area. (tilts too). Will be a great replacement for the man powered files I've been using for the past 20 odd years! So with the new capabilities bolted to the bench and the Claymore industries patented dangle poise lamp temporarily installed, I set about making some
  5. Sounds complicated and expensive. Stick with the original plan in my opinion. Please remember this is a starlet forum, people here have helped the best they can and spent lots of time guiding you (and on the other forum as well). Its your choice and your money, but starting again seems like all the previous 8 pages of this thread are now a waste of time? We all have these fantasy moments but please, remember your budget, time allowance and fabrication skills. The 4efte corolla 2wd will be awesome anyway. Keep it simple mate.
  6. Now that's a turbo! Should spool well with the smaller back housing. What size is it HX?? Great fabrication /machining as always.
  7. Not too difficult. Just don't scratch the crankshaft, oil pump or sealing collar or it will leak oil. The front seal comes off with the oil pump when you change the pump so is easy to install after the new pump is on. There are special tools to remove crankshaft / camshaft seals with the shaft still in place. Much easier / cleaner and safer than the old "sheet metal screw and pull technique"
  8. Glad to see you got the 5e mate. Looking forward to the updates. Top class build
  9. Great to hear mate, looking forward to the updates
  10. Most of the "official" workshop manuals say to take the valve cover off. But most of the guides I've seen on the forums / internet the cover stays on and you only need to work from the side. With the 4e-fte out of the car on an engine stand it will be very easy to change compared to when it is installed in the engine bay. Don't forget to change water pump and most likely oil pump as well as the crank seals etc.... You might want to check under the valve cover anyway when you get the engine, you can check the shim clearances to the cams and also check that the camshaft lobes aren't ch
  11. Catch can baffle As the can was completely devoid of any baffling I decided to separate the can in half with a central divider baffle, with some lower horizontal baffles. Didn't fancy using stainless scourers (too much chance of shrapnel) and as the flow through the can will have to change direction it needs to be able to flow both ways. Also needs to produce as little pressure drop along the way as possible. Off boost, clean air is drawn from the intake pipe pre turbo, through the can and into the the crankcase and onto the intake manifold; on boost the PCV shuts and crankcase vapou
  12. Catch can time. Decided to use one catch can between the turbo inlet pipe and non PCV outlet on the rocker cover. I'm not worried about oil vapours being drawn into the combustion process at cruise and idle, however not keen on them entering the turbo / intercooler. Also wanted to keep the crankcase under vac on boost. So obviously chose the cheapest can I could find on eBay to use / modify. I chose the 15mm nozzle version and the bore is 10mm which matches up with the rocker cover outlet bore more closely. The obvious let down was the piece of garden hose supplied with it didn't fit
  13. With an adjustable fpr (which will be vac referenced) I can experiment with different fuel pressures. Or let the dyno tuner guide me most likely.
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