msg1

Well turned out that it was the bearing, with a damaged crankshaft and one damaged Rod....joy of joys right...anyhow tried again with the clearances n this bloody noise will not go. I know it doesn't affect performance but I don't like noises in my cars.

Beats me as to why come have it and others don't, even though they were all built/forged.

Yep, the block does indeed need notching. Looking forward to hearing from someone who actually got the noise sorted, although it does not affect performance.

Well there goes that theory.

I never thought of the piston and Rod combination tho...interesting, but you do have a good point there.

Same thing as mine....have no idea what it is. All I have is ticking, not the other noises.

Damn I should have kept my box...tks a lot tho.

Yeah I thought of the safety concept too. I guess Alamo knew all the dimensions that I didn't. When I spoke with scat they said the sale of the single Rod was possible but they needed BE and SE weights which I did not have by the time that I needed to purchase the Rod.

Alamo AutoSports. I bought my original scat rods, wiseco pistons and King engine bearings from him. Very cool guy.

I'm just waiting on my one Rod to reach me in Trinidad.

Managed to get one from a cool guy off eBay located in Texas

Tks man, will appreciate. I threw out my boxes years now.

Does anyone know the Big End (BE) and Small End (SE) weights in grams of one of these rods.???????

As topic says...I am located in The Caribbean. I usually order parts on eBay.

Yep so I've realized. Now though, my engine bearing spun, so it is back to the garage. I'm really hoping that it is only the bearing that's messed up.

Wow, that must be a sigh of relief!!!!

You do make a good point, because the noise calms down when the engine is warmed up. So I guess then, next thing is to go ahead with management.

Tks a lot man, got my hands on one and changed today.

Well I just cleaned my idle valve, could have sworn the noise was greatly reduced after running the valve back together. Switched off the engine then restarted and the noise was back to the same old, sigh...

Well my major tick was actually the idle control valve, after you unplug it you can still hear the injectors

And what do you do after unplugging? Just clean and put back?

And exactly when do I unplug it and for how long? Is it before I start the engine or while idling and for how long?

Where exactly is this valve?????

Yes but I'm sure this noise can be fixed right since some have the noise and others no...anyone???

I'd love for mine to go.

I have this same problem, the noise started right after my forged rebuild. I picked up the car from the mechanic and there was that noise. He claimed to adjust the tappets/shims since, but same old noise...plz post a pic of this valve. I'll try this next.

Anyone knows these for fitment with air conditioning.

I know the P/S is 4pk1080.

But what is the number for the alternator belt.?????

Keep in mind that I do have AC.

Where the hell can I get these at a fair price? I am in the Caribbean though, but frequent New York.

Part numbers: 46430-18010 and 46420-18010