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Monkey

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Posts posted by Monkey

  1. David that would be spectacular mate, I just need a run down of wiring colours in your connectors. Idrees had a couple of different coloured wires in his SR loom otherwise I would just make mine identical and it should work. This had been doing my fruit for weeks now.

  2. Update:

    All the ICE stuff is now in place and wired up, I just need to make the enclosure for the sub. Sounds 100% better already, even with the sub just sat there in the boot. I've actually got something other than tinny treble finally :D

    I removed the little running man from the bootlid and the sticker from the passenger door. Had to go out then so the right one is still on, will do that tomorrow, does look much cleaner without. I'll do the bump strips at the same time. Do you guys use anything specific for getting the glue off after?

    Can't wait to get the spoiler and cupra lip on and I've decided to go for Reflets at the rear, they looked great on Idrees car tonight. We have found some discrepancies between the wiring looms on the two cars which hopefully explains why my rev counter aint working. The looms have different coloured wires though so I can't just copy his set-up. I really wish there was somebody on here that has done the sportif to SR clocks conversion and could actually look at their sportif loom and write down the wire colours for me :D

  3. OK, after spending a few hours with my mate Gadget (check out the time of this post), the ICE install is finalised...and begun B)

    6x9s in parcel shelf - Check!

    DSC00414.jpg

    DSC00417.jpg

    DSC00416.jpg

    Sub will be mounted in custom made MDF box towards the rear and the left of the boot angled slightly upwards. I do use my boot, so don't wanna lose too much space or flexibility by sticking it in the middle.

    The amp will be mounted to the back of the left rear seat.

    Amp power lead runs down the right side of the car or up the middle away from the fuel tank right?

    Channels 1 & 2 (L & R) running with HPF switch on Full into the 6x9s providing 50W RMS per channel (6x9s rated at 40W RMS)

    Channels 3 & 4 bridged with LPF switch on into the Sub providing 150W RMS at 4ohms (Sub rated to 140W RMS)

    I'll never be running these at full volume so I assume that the 10W differential won't be a problem?

    If I can get a twin RCA and remote wire tomorrow I'm gonna stick it all in.

    Sub enclosure is gonna take some designing to get it how I want :D:D

    No rush though :D

    Also got a bit giddy and bought one of these:

    CupraSplitter.jpg

    Seat Leon Cupra Splitter :D

  4. Cheers mate, so you reckon £50 was ok?

    Er...no...not really. I have a mate called Gadget who knows a lot more about this ICE stuff than I do, just rang him and he said he'll sort it for me. Apparently all I need is some long RCA leads to run down the car from the headunit to the boot. He reckons I've got everything else I need.

  5. Just found this sub write-up:

    Nothing wrong with your sound - if you've got Pioneer amps and subs. Bass that hits you to the bone, and power to rock the whole street. Massive power rumbles out of the Pioneer's amps. Pioneer subs will take your sound around the block. Loaded with technology for increased power handling and accurate sound, your car will knock out any contenders. Discover new extremes of power and bass and get way, way down.Monster sound can come in small packages. The 10" TS-W253F Free-Air Component subwoofer is 4-ohm rated and handles 400 Watts max. music power. It features one-piece cone construction for reduced distortion, even after running the sub at extreme levels. Lead wires integrated into damper provide high reliability and improved power transfer.

  6. Pic heavy update

    Dropped off my spoiler to be painted today, will get it back in the week and be fitting it next weekend.

    Also called round to see a mate and mentioned that I was after a decent sound set up in the car. Walked away £50 lighter with a Maystar MX455 Amp, Pioneer 6x9s and 10" Pioneer Sub in MDF board and a wiring loom to hook it all up. He's had them lying around for a while and was about to ebay them. It's fairly old kit but can't be grumbled at for 50 dabs I reckon, any opinions? Here's some photos:

    MDF board with 6x9s and sub mounted

    DSC00405.jpg

    Underside

    DSC00406.jpg

    Sub

    DSC00408.jpg

    6x9s

    DSC00407.jpg

    Maystar MX455

    DSC00410.jpg

    Lots of switches and knobs :D:D

    DSC00412.jpg

    Lots of things to screw things to :D

    DSC00413.jpg

    I have absolutely no idea how to wire it all up tbh, might take it somewhere and get it done unless any of you guys can give me any pointers.

    My mate said if any of it doesn't work or if I don't like it, he'll give me my money back no probs, seems like a no brainer to me.

    Anyone reckon this kit is ok, was the price ok?

    Chris

  7. damn that looks so clean man!! the clear lenses and side repeaters made an awesome improvement against the green of the car! sweet! i reckon it would look even smartef u removed the sportif stickers and the rubbin strips, wee simple mods to just clean it up!

    my wee bro has bought a 95 fiat cinquicento to break and it has a set of JBL GTO 935e 3way 6x9s that are up for sale. they seem in good condition, we havnt tried them out to see if they work but theres no sign of any damage, if your interested send me a PM dude, he's lookin £30 posted.

    Phil.

    Cheers Phil

    Sportif stickers are coming off the sides and rear and gonna get the rubbin strips painted at the same time as the spoiler. Do they just pull off? Are they held on with clips or just stuck on?

    I'll have a think about the JBLs and let you know, cheers mate.

  8. Here's my 1997 Starlet Sportif that I bought at the end of September.

    It belonged to my friends mum who bought it new and has used it only to go to the shops and visit friends locally.

    It had only done 23,000 miles when I got it ;)

    DSC00359.jpg

    When I bought it I knew nothing about Starlets and had no idea there was such a huge modding scene.

    My only intention was to get some wheels / tyres and a decent head unit and speakers but after spending time on this forum my plans have been added to somewhat.

    First thing I did was wheels:

    HRS290.jpg

    DSC00370.jpg

    Then clear lenses and side repeaters:

    DSC00619.jpg

    I have also put a K&N panel filter in and am in the process of sourcing a corolla inlet manifold from a local breakers.

    I've fitted some 4" JBL GTO speakers at the front and I'm looking at Alpine headunits on the net.

    Will probably go down the 6x9s route later on as the sound is really weak with just fronts.

    I won a genuine spoiler on ebay last week so need to get that painted to match and fitted.

    Spoiler.jpg

    I've been having a nighmare with a rev counter clock conversion (as I'm sure you've already read in my threads on here) but I'm sure I'll get it sorted eventually ;)

    Gonna tidy up under the bonnet, paint the rocker cover etc, maybe some green hoses to tie it in to the outside of the car.

    Will start to look at suspension / handling once the budget allows, may start off with pi springs and an rsr panhard rod to start and maybe look at coilovers later on.

    Some of the other stuff like anti-roll bars and strut braces are a possibility too.

    So what do you guys and gals reckon so far?

  9. Got some SR clocks from a local breakers last night, swapped all the wires around in the connectors in accordance with the wiring diagram sent to me by David Ashton and Blue Icarian Wings (same diagram) and the damn rev counter still isn't working.

    I reckon the tacho pulse wire must be faulty which probably means the paseo clocks are fine and I've wasted another £30 ;)

    The pulse wire seems to start off a really thick orange in the loom and the goes to a thin black one as it enters the connector. When everything is powered up I can feel that the tacho needle is pushing itself down against the stop with positive pressure. I assume that the tacho pulse is a negative feed that pulls the needle the other way but this clearly isn't happening. With the ignition off there is no resistance to the needle.

    I'm gonna try to trace the orange wire back to source and run a fresh feed to the pin on the connector. Might have a set of SR or Paseo clocks for sle if I can get it working.

    ps the odometer is the same on the SR clocks as the sportif so I have been able to move my original one over (with original 23000 mileage). The paseo is different and couldn't be transferred, it was showing 113000 miles ;) so I was gonna have to clock it back.

    Chris

  10. Nice buys Chris.

    ybfilters are good, have dealt with them before. I take it you checked up on the filter part number in our parts section before buying :lol: ?

    Glad you are enjoying the hobby mate.

    Joz

    Yeah I checked the part numbers out and made sure i got the right one. I ordered it ages ago and the postage has been really slow though.

  11. I'm absolutely buzzin!

    Just won a spoiler on ebay.

    Click here to have a look at the auction.

    I have no idea what this should have cost but I assume I have done well at that price?

    Will have to get it sprayed to match the car but i have a few mates that should be able to do that for me quite cheaply. Will get the plastic side strips done at the same time and the arches tidied.

    I'm guessing this spoiler will look like the one on the CD model right? That's all i wanted, just a little one to smarten up the back end.

    Picking up my clear indicator lenses an side repeaters tomorrow from local dealer and have some osram diadem indy bulbs on the way from fleabay.

    I have hardly spent any money on the car since i bought it (apart from the wheels) and it looks like a completely different car, I'm soo pleased.

    Oh, K&N is on the way too from ybfilters and local breakers is keeping an eye open for a rolla manifold for me.

    I might change the back lights and leave it at that :lol:

    Chris

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