Danturbo4311

2 months ago I made 269hp at the wheels on sumo powers rolling road this was at 6600rpm & only at 1.4bar of boost on a gt28 as I was still running the engine in, then about a month ago I had my gt on the rollers again once it was run in & it made 318hp at the wheels at 1.8bar, this was still on the standard rev limiter as we had problems raising the rev limit on the EMU, in about a months time (hopefully) I will be going back again as I've now sorted out the problem with the rev limit so will have to see what it makes, this is on a 4e.

When the new TPS was put on did you set it up properly checking resistance between the terminals using a multimeter & feeler gauges, as it sounds like the TPS is not set up right. Any fault codes come up if you do a diagnostic test

Im not tonight mate, next saturday ill be down there.

10 onwards to about 2

I wanna go lakeside tonight especially after last week, but Im being forced into going out with the misses family lol. So gonna have to leave it till next saturday, although on the bright side ill have my engine run in & set up on the rolling road by next weekend aslong as during the week goes to plan. Think we should all meet before going into lakeside & go down together.

All depends on the wheel trims, housing sizes etc, the t25 & t28 were put on several cars like, the fiat coupe, varies rovers, s13, s14, s15, pulsar. A t28 from a pulsar will push over 300hp, but it has a large turbine housing .86ar aswell as larger wheels so it will take a while to spool on a 1.3, from my personal experience I found the best t25/28 to suit a 4e is from a s14 or s15 with a .64 rear housing, I made 268bhp @ just over one bar & I upped the boost to 1.5bar, it was alot quicker but I never got it back on the rollers. If your upping the boost I would advise getting it rebuilt with a 360 degree bearing & stagger gap seals, as the turbine seal often goes if the boost is increased especially on an older unit

Also some skylines used these units with ceramic turbine wheels, with regards to this I wouldnt up the boost at all as the turbine is only bonded to the shaft, a friend of mine tried to up the boost on one but the turbine wheel seperated from the shaft & was rattling around in exhaust lol.

I see your gt going down there gtr-r33 very nice mate, & that KA turbo was quick to, was a very good night, I spoke to abbott briefly & I think I saw gaz going down there in his civic to.

I was down there last night, it was good & packed full of cars, I took the gt but was just spectating as im still running the engine in, that white one was pretty fast, anyone no what turbo it was running. Phayer does your GT have starlet on the side of it.

Could be a problem with turbo seals, or it could be an engine problem, how much oil is coming out of the dumpvalve, there shouldnt be any oil in the intercooler pipes really, & as for the oil leak were abouts on the turbo is it coming from, as it could be a crack in the feed pipe, I would get a compression test done aswell just to be sure the engines ok.

I earthed mine out were the rear seat belts were bolted to, (just above were yours is earthed) i very much doubt were the seat belts bolt to is gonna rust or detriorate, had it like that for 2 years now & no problems. You wanna keep the earth lead as short as possible, so I wouldnt send it back to the engine imo, & yea keep the earths that are still in the engine bay. With the positive I just used a junction box & connected the wires to that & one thick positive cable going to the battery

ARP bolts dont have the same torque settings as stock bolts, from memory they are to be tightened in 3 stages equally upto 60ftlbs with ARP lube, I have heard of others having problems with them when fitting, but mine were fine, GTS GAV I no its not what you ment but just to make it clear to other people, dont go loosening off your headbolts, as once theyve been torqued the headgasket has crushed/sealed so last thing you wanna do is cause problems. Also I understand what your saying about retorquing them after a few cycles but I've tried that on stock botls & they didnt tighten anymore, plus it was a bit of hassle as the cams have to come back out again to get the 2 bolts under the cam gears.

Mine is pretty dam loud & spooling takes a little while to (gt28rs with a side exit exhaust) by the time it spools up people about a mile up the road can hear & are turning around to see whats going on

some of the 4wd cars last time I was up santa pod were getting poor times, all depends on his launch, but it should still beat a standard GT. Either way it will be an experience just dont mug up your gear changes, especially in front of the amount of people that will be there, I might go USC not sure yet.

do a diagnostic test first it does sound like fuel cut but do it so you no for sure as it dont cost anything to find out also see if any other codes come up aswell. Just use a paper clip bend it & in the diagnostic plug bridge terminals TE1 & E1 together put your ignition on & count the flashes, also reset your ecu to get rid of the code by either disconnecting the battery or removing the EFI fuse.

If it blow between cylinders & the headgasket isnt that old, its due to det, you need to get your ignition timing sorted, set it to 10degrees before TDC, you could buy an athena headgasket or cruise but if its detting you will blow them to, just not as quick. If you've upped the boost then get the fuelling checked. I would be inclined to pop the pistons out to just to makesure they haven't cracked. Also I've run a standard headgasket on a t28 set up to 1.1 bar it made 268hp then I road mapped it to 1.5bar & it was alot more powerful but never got it on the rollers again to see what it was kicking out. When I next removed the head there was nothing wrong with the standard headgasket but decided to change it for a thicker cruise one with ARP bolts only because Im now running a gt28rs with nitrous, maybe pushing it a bit on standard headgasket lol.

Im running nos on a forged 4e with a gt28rs, works well, if you do run it, it works best with a nos controller to spread the shot over a certain amount of time rather than it kicking in all at once, as it wheel spins to much.

Not deformed yet, just felt it & it was really soft so left it alone to cool off, ill just have to see how it goes.

Drove to my works with the new scoop fitted but it seems my WEPR manifold sits to near the bonnet scoop & its making at the plastic go really soft.

Recieved mine just now theres a few marks on it as others have said but im happy with it, & its already on the car.

If they do a compression test & any cylinders are low put a teaspoon of oil down them, then re-test it, if it raises compression then you will no for sure its piston problem (cracked ringland). Out of interest what was up with your last headgasket (did it blow between cylinders or between oil & water gallery). Also did they set up your ignition timing correctly at 10degrees with a timing light after they did the headgasket.

The only options you got if it is pistons is, take the head back off & replace the pistons, or go forged, or buy another engine.

You need to do a compression test & if theres low cylinders put oil down them & test them again to see if it raises compression if it does then you've most probably cracked the piston ringlands (bit between the piston rings).

If room is a problem with the T peice above this is the other option

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MR2-STARLET-SUPRA-TU...=item1c1235937c

You would be a very silly person if you drilled your block just to fit this sensor when you have so many other options with less risk, say you drilled in the wrong place or if any of the little bits of metal got to the bearings or blocked up the oil way you could imagine the damage

I would be very suspicious of it, the work you say its claimed to have done, chipped, camed & forged redtop, for just under £218 the engine alone would be worth way more than that, why is the person selling it & why so cheap. No brakes, no MOT or tax is a pretty easy fix & as others said could be a money earner just make sure you check theres nothing dodgy with it that could land you in trouble, & I actually like corsa's, not that particular one (no offence lol) but I've seen some impressive corsas (normally 2litre turbos thou)

I run these brakes on mine & paid double that price for em, thats a bargain, they work well, & they will fit the standard brake lines, I used a set of 4 stud prius discs vented & drilled cost me £70 new but it saves on drilling out some 5 studs to make them fit as i dont really like the idea of drilling a disc although others have done it with no problems, I also used a 5mm spacer behind the hub to centralise the disc in the caliper & the standard wheel lugs are fine to use I've used mine for about 9months now, no problems. Im running 1.6 bar of boost on a gt28 & a 50 shot of nitrous & still stop fine with these.

The pistons can sometimes be hard to get out, easiest way to remove them is to remove the brake line & put an air line with adapator in the hole & blow it out (but put a bit of wood in front of the piston so that it doesnt fly off & injure/damage somone or something). As said makesure you clean it up good & check the bore which the piston sits in for scratches etc. Yes you will need to bleed the brakes.