glentwenty

Alright i need you guys to brainstorm!! So atm i have a front sprocket that is 4cm not 4mm -.- so 40mm. 180/40 = 4.5 7000 rpm x 4.5 = 31500 which i would say isnt enough to actually make any respectable boost. I am using the figure 180 because i was orginally using a sprocket over 200mm and that was way to big so 180 is probably the max sized sprocket i want to go. Sooo here is where i need you guys. Is there anything that you guys know of that uses a sprocket for a chain at about 20mm in diameter? 180/20 = 9 7000rpm x 9 = 63000, 63k rpm is not too bad so i would need something around this size. But i am unable to think of anything that uses a sprocket this small. Motorbike engine sprockets are around 40mm which is just to big :/

I would have thought balancing and sealing would be your biggest problem here, along with tensioning the chain correctly so it doesnt jump off and smash your shit at 7/8k rpm! A guard would be a must, take a look at clutch guards from high power drag cars and things and put a steel plate between you and people outside the car, and the whole chain sprockett assembly. Tbh, a belt would be a wayy better idea imo, factory and aftermarket chargers use them without problem and you can butcher alternators and crankshaft sprockets for parts, and use a belt tensioner from something like an ej20s air con pump which would be wayyy easier to fit to a custom jobbie like this!

I was originally going to use pulleys but its very hard to find a big pulley for the step up in RPMs also i have read alot about belts always wearing out even on the high quality superchargers

It's very hard to find a sprocket that's not too big but nearly all over them are too big so may need to find a bigger sprocket for the Impeller

Also check what the max rpm and pressure rating of the turbo is. could shatter and damage. If you find out what material it is I could calc it I'm an engineer

The turbo I'm using I've looked online has next to no information about it anywhere :/ just trying to do something different considering I'm putting it all together at work with bits laying around any boost is an accomplishment

Ahh thats cool then, could have been a disaster waiting to happen

You could always run twin chains if using a bike chain

Yeah if could have been haha Yeah i could but i don't have much space to work with if any at all. Im lucky this turbo is so small and fits under the hood. Anything bigger wouldn't fit there at all haha

Yeah morgey i worked it out after wards because for some reason i had it being 4.3x in my head but when i actually was like hang on a second and did it again i was like jesus. Which is why i said that one would be overkill haha Looking for a smaller one atm. Could always use a bike sprocket since im using a bike derailleur i suppose. But then would a bike chain be strong enough? I would probably need a motorcycle chain

Haven't thought to much into that stuff as of yet but if we get it too run and actually do anything then ill try and sort out any of the things above!

if it is you could always bend a steel plate around it so it could only go down

Yeah thats a good idea!

Oh okay will have a look into it man! Thats a good idea just incase haha but then again im guessing that stuff would be hella expensive!

Yeah that's how i aim to do it, if its going to cut through the car would a blanket stop it from doing anything??

Hey guys just an update (sorry for crappy quality photos)

This is the turbo i will be running, the idea is to bolt a big sprocket like this one on to the power steering pulley

This is the one i was going to be using but i will have to use one smaller because this one is way to overkill anyway and it wont fit where it needs to go, If i managed to get it to fit i would then have no space at all to have the turbo anywhere, I will be looking for a smaller sprocket to run off of the power steering pulley, the chain will then run a 4mm derailleur pulley off of a bicycle (Hopefully it doesn't snap but i guess we will find out ;) ) which will give the step up in RPM's needed to get the impeller spinning fast enough. The 4mm derailleur will be attached to the shaft of the impeller out the back of the hot side of the turbo. The hot side compressor housing wont be being used but the bit the shaft goes through (sorry turbo noob) will be used to keep the shaft nice and centered perfectly. Having the step up from the bigger sprocket to the small 4mm sprocket will hopefully give the turbo the rpms at the impeller needed to create some boost. The main issues are going to be - Once i have the right sized sprocket that will fit finding a way to mount the turbo so that it wont budge! The turbo will be sitting snug over by the ABS unit, Then the next hard part will be finding some piping that will wrap around the motor up to the intake since its on the opposite side of the engine (will probably be the most expensive part). This is my plans anyway, feel free to leave any feedback and i will be posting photos along the way Once my iphone gets out the shop there will be more HD photos!

22cm sorry, so a 22cm(220mm) step dowm to a 4mm should be 53x more rpms at the impeller then hopefully

Will get some pics tomorrow Will get my iphone back soon for some HD pics, Will be running it off a small vf21 turbo from a Subaru twin setup, I decided i am going to be running off a chain instead of a belt because belts wear out, Will be using a 52 tooth sprocket off a motorbike which is about 22mm scaling down to a 11 tooth 4mm derailleur cog. Giving about 4.3x more rpm at the impeller. Like i said not looking for loads of boost just seeing what it can do!

As above, this is just a little project im working on at work in my spare time, If you guys would be interested in seeing photos and a little thread about it let me know and ill start it right here im not looking for loads of power out of it just trying to see if i can get at least something out of it. Just an experiment, Let me know if you want to see more!

How much for turbo and Mani shipped to nz?

Pm me man

Oh cool thanks man

^^^^^^ you need

loom

dizzy

coil / igniter

ecu and ( 4efte specific sensors )

if your car is p8 then use gtturbo stuff if p9 then the flanza stuff !!!!

Alright thanks dude ) once all that's put in will it make a significant difference ??

Okay cool only need engine loom Aye? No need to get the extra random shit, well I work with my brother at Honda so I'm sure in our spate time we can get down and do something

If you do it be careful, read up on pinking/det, if youve got a keen ear you can hear it. But if youre not sure i wouldn't bother as it can do serious damage to your engine[/quoter's]

Okay man might give it a shot, my brother is a mechanic so he could lend me a hand listening out for it thanks, ecu and exhaust Mani to find.

To get more power out of it. Advancing the timing gives u a little bit extra. Its an old school way of tuning from the carb daya, now-a-days the timing is advanced on the ecu when it gets mapped. But from factory they only put a small amount of advancement in because its just a generic map For every car with that engine.

Tbh the best way to get your 0-60 down.... Strip the living daylights out of it, it costs absolutely nothing

I may advance it a little bit, I can't really strip it as it is my daily :/

You'll most likely find the Gen1 FE ECU in early N/a EP82s and EP85s with EFI. They were 100ps.

Thanks dude will keep my eye out! Will keep you guys updated

Try it, they arent the same.

Will the 12s to 100 time drop with every mod? Or will it take a lot to get it to drop noticeably?

To get more out of what man? Should i just run a 4efte ecu? I'm sure they are the same

Wait is the gen1 ECU the same as the 4efte ecu? Because according to the starlet WIKI the 4efte motor is the gen1 4efe, gen2 and gen3 never had a 4efte model. Only the gen1. So wouldn't the ecu from the 4efte actually be a Gen1 ecu? This is the snippet im talking about VV

"First generation 4E-FE[edit]

The first generation of 4E engines found in the Starlet GI, Soleil and Corolla models were produced from 1989 until 1996. The engine found in these two models produces 88 bhp (66 kW) at 6,600 rpm and 86 lb·ft (117 N·m) at 5,200 rpm. This engine had more in common with the 4E-FTE, sharing the same throttle body, and slightly larger fuel injectors.

• Specs:
• 74 mm Bore
• 77.4 mm Stroke
• 9.6:1 Compression Ratio

The first generation 4E-FE was the basis of the 4E-FTE in 1989, which was a turbocharged engine producing 133 hp (99 kW) at 6,400 rpm with 116 lb·ft (157 N·m) of torque at 4,800 rpm. The 4E-FTE was the most powerful of the E series engines ever produced. It was produced exclusively for the Toyota Starlet GT Turbo (Japan Only) and its replacement, the Toyota Glanza V (Japan only). However the 4E-FTE was a very popular conversion engine by enthusiasts for many small Toyota cars such as the Corolla, Tercel, Paseo and Sera which it fitted into with standard Toyota parts. The 4E-FTE differed internally from the 4E-FE only by its stronger connecting rods, and low compression pistons (reduced compression to 8.5:1) the cylinder head and valve train was identical to the 4E-FE the crankshaft was also stronger than the 4E-FE, you can tell which crank you have because the turbo will have 4ET stamped onto it, instead of 4E. It also featured a harmonic damper instead of a normal crankshaft pulley. The turbocharger fitted to the 4E-FTE was Toyota's own CT9 model, which featured an internal waste gate and had 2 modes: low (0.4 bar/40 kPa) and high (0.65 bar/65 kPa) boost. The low boost mode was electronically controlled by a solenoid valve and the ECU and the high boost was controlled by an actuator connected to the turbocharger. The 4E-FTE also had a top mounted, air cooled intercooler. The 4E-FTE was mated to the Toyota C52 transmission (for the EP82 Starlet GT) and the C56 transmission (for the EP91 Glanza V).

• Specs:
• 74 mm Bore
• 77.4 mm Stroke
• 8.5:1 Compression Ratio"

Why breaks the torque down at the gen1 engine?

Is there something which switch on/off?

I didnt see this 100hp engine bevor...but it is very interesting!

The gen2 ecu had slight adjustments from the gen 1 ecu to reduce exhaust emissions