MR-2

And point was has somebody dynoed or are these only feelings? Have You tested those with exhaust manifolds or just intake, because exhaust manifolds are also different.

Older version Corolla engine is fine and newer is broken somehow, got it free. So should I move intake and exhaust manifolds to older engine, is there really so much difference on dyno or real life, waste of time?

Doing some fast engine change to my EP70, before turboing 5E. I may put turbo 4E-FTE intake and exhaust manifold to this 4E-FE n/a for testing, so T- manifold is one choise also, biggest gasthrottle.

Electrics are not problem, have to do it anyway when going 1E>4E, only few differences.

Try and tell, I was too lazy to drop exhaust down, Not 100% sure that it fits, but I tested that center part goes. Also losted one metall bushing bracket, gona do few new one from 3mm plate. Mission impossible to find oem stabilaizer here and those are so thin anyway, 24mm sounds much better, maybe 22mm after sandblasting I have few pictures at home, later can post.

All went fine, but rear pistons won't come out, arg:) Good tips wanted without breaking seals, tested compressed air and rotating woth proper tools, not a chance. Maybe have to compres with brakefluid and same time rotate? These were very rusty before asid. Or I put n/a drumbrakes back to newcoming axle.

And news for brakepad hunting, SW20 Rev2> turbo pads fit to Levin brakes, me stupid have lost one pad, aborted those from my old brake setupu before Brembo calibers :/

EE80 and AE82 shares basically identical engineroom, only wider. You can mix lot of parts with that, even with 4A-GE GTI version, hubs, arms, steering, shaft parts, joints....

Almost, I do have one coming to my Starlet, it, maybe few centimeters wider, but floor supports fits, so only endlinks must check which one to use. Haven't found new 24mm polyuretane bushings anywhere, so have to do custom or oem. Don't wanna add it before I have some rarb solution.

Oem Toyota quality disks citronasid cleaned. Strugling with rear calibers, can't get pistons out, do I have to put other calibers or buy recontinied new calibers or repairkit. Fucking rusted pistons...

Front twinpot brakes are from Levin and rear are still under thinking, shoul I use drumbrakes, so much better handbrake and rear is so light :/ Don't wanna too big brakes and 15" wheels are best size for me. Too much problems with wheels if four pistons calibers in front, hate that hasling...

Battery cable from MR2, gona remount battery in trunk somewhere, all wiring and fusebox gona go hide in engineroom.

Brakebooster and some brakepipes for Starlet maybe. Brakelines must do new, wanna those new road to rear and hiding engineroom lines with pressureadjuster in the cabin side also. Adding hydraulic handbrake also in the rearline, normal cable wires gona stay also for MOT.

Few parts away from my wounded MR2 to Starlet.

And it really weights maybe douple or more compared to C-series transmission, kills Starlets idea. With adapter plate You can put it, but all custom parts needed, so hard even in N/A MR2 with S54 gearbox.

My MR2 heart...

E153 Gen3 oem LSD in my tuned MR2 3S-GTE SW20 turbo, can't say anything bad about that gearbox, it's very badass, all what You ever need Same gearbox used in 4A-GZE AW11 MR2 and E9/10 Corollas, with different clutch housing and gear selector systems.

Very heavy box and needs also shafts to fit, wheel hubs maybe etc. Clutch is 240mm, so need also custom flywheel erc. Not easy job and very expensive if trying to buy parts separately. Easier is to buy halfcut or full car and put 3S-GTE inside.

No rope tricks, just compressed air from sparkplug hole. I have made long metallpipe and welded some plugtread hollow bolt and other end metall tyre pressure valve, easy to see if pressure drops a lot, then its time to take head away. Pistons can be on highest position one cylinder at time, so no worry if it drops little bit. Hardest part is to be carefull that valve spring locking parts won't dropp inside engine.

But sometimes it's time to check/do full headworkif engine is in bad condition, same time new pistons etc...

Sweet car and engines, and so clean garage also

You can change seals without taking head off by the way. Cams etc must take away, saves some money.

Have try hide it somewhere or paint mattblack, don't like too bling bling products. Also intercooler and radiator with black thermopaint.

This is must when turboing 5E, no room for oilfilter in block. Thermostat version Trust product

Maybe put this Innovate also, if can hide it somewhere, hate aeroplane cockpits full of meters, never time to watch those when hard cornering...

Four channel exhaustgas gauge and sensors, best way to monitor pistons melting

I'm gona do own towing hitch for this car and I have old 2 person Sprite Cadet camper. Also managed towing papers for my MR2, so why the hell not. Can tow 400kg camper without brakes and Sprite weights 380kg.

Shoul I do own low rack for this, if goin to camping

Me and my son @ Ahvenisto track. Too much power and weight, not enough grip, Starlet gona kick this car ass very hard on this track...

Full restauration few years ago...

Old engine room, with Greddy air intercooler etc, now I have watercooling system, temporaly mix of ST205 Celica parts, next trunk cooler.

Old 3S-GTE engine. Next engine gona have remounted trunk turbo, all gona be N/A look inside engineroom, all electrics has moved/hided and trunk floor is cutted. Only lefting ignition leads visual, Caldina intake, Starlet alternator, etc...