ceramicfilm

Hi yes this is possible.could you private mail me please. I'm glad my advice is helping people out

Would like some information from people in and around this area...............

that is the petroleum distillates your seeing,it would be worth when removing wax use a detailing spray to lightly mist and then wipe off,see how you get on with that

It has an rs engine running 440bhp Removing tints....a steam machine for removing wall paper or something similar!

nice car mate! definately go down the snowfoam route! be sensible n not scrub to hard and it will shift! i wouldnt leave tescos shampoo on a cars paintwork........ meguiars will be good,i would recommend,wheels,inner arches,clean and out the way first! snowfoam it,leave on car for 15minutes,rinse,snowfoam again,but wash with shampoo while the snowfoam there,make your shampoo water hot enough to be able to get your hand in bucket without screaming! rub the area more where you want to remove sap etc,failing that buy a claybar,should have one anyway dont be sucked into buying clay lubes,just use car shampoo in a bucket as your claybar,as long as it has a smooth surfecant product to use as lube itll be all good! im not sure what your using to polish and wax it with but i find on japanese paint and if your polishing by hand..http://shop.autofinesse.co.uk/tripple-250ml also watch the video on that page,awesome product i love it!

so heres the detailing dog haha! he also polishes! Detailing Focus rs two week detail! vents removed to be painted vauxhall sapphire black vents sprayed! rs door shuts! red one also detailed and rear three tinted 328 gts ferrari Tints -

I would recommend snowfoam through a lance on pressure washer! However dont waste your money on snowfoam,just use car shampoo mixed with water to created the same idea,if you applied this and leave it for 15minutes on the paint,then rinse off and see what you have......! try not to do it in beaming sunshine! What car is it? i can advise better if i know the paint type.... i would recommend the autofinesse degreasing product http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/182090481777?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=1007345&poi=&campaignid=270621186&device=c&adgroupid=16885268106&rlsatarget=pla-146650298946&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=122&ff19=0 this stuff is amazing and although it has high degreasing propertys,it dosnt strip wax applied to paint,clever product! to apply this,spray liberally on spots required,leave it a few mines,use a detailing brush can be found here....http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wheels-and-tyres/valetpro-non-scratch-soft-brush/prod_950.html agitate the product on desired area,use common sense not to brush too hard,medium pressure to see whats happening,some hot milk may also benefit but dont allow it to dry in to the paintwork! i use hot milk to break down hard bird poo,so i dont run the risk of scratching,its awesome! p.s the abarth looks squeeeeeky clean,nice job!

no problem,i would recommend also a very sharp knife blade! i use a olfa silver knife,can get them on ebay for 7 quid or from that mdp supplies website in tools section,a blunt blade can scratch glass badly!

Ok i wouldn't recommend buying that again it is a nightmare,cheap chinese film unfortunately! as for slip solution,fairy liquid is no use,it has an abrasive in it that is designed to break down grease,it will chew the window film glue and cause it to fail in a short period of time..... so for a slip solution i would recommend you use johnsons baby shampoo mixed with water... http://www.lloydspharmacy.com/en/johnsons-baby-shampoo-300ml?gclid=CjwKEAjw9Zu5BRCS_OuVibujhQ0SJAD7t4KrUG4fQtf5VBmHfp4EmHwOQLkouxYpYn9-mgtTMOJEXxoCHzjw_wcB for window film itself id recommend using this http://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/suntekcarbon.asp they have a northern ireland depo,service is awesome im addicted to ordering from them,mainly vinyl though,i'm an authorised installer via a worldwide window film producer,obviously i use there film! but suntek carbon is a good film!! for the rear window,your going to run into some issues as the window is curved,the film needs 'heat shrunk' to conform to the shape of the glass.its quite an art! for your side windows,grab your film and separate a little bit on a corner,you want the sticky side facing you! spray solution on outside of window,put your film on area you require tinting,with the sticky side of film facing you..stick a light in the car,facing outwards,to out line the cut...... have a look where you need to cut the tint to.......if the tint is to long it will bunch up against the interior panels/roof lining and causes creases you fight with every day,so make sure your cut is close to area needing tinted,once you have it cut,peel the backing off,spray the window tint with solution,give a quick spray inside glass aswell,another tip!!...when your carrying the film inside the car,walk backwards into car with it,as walking forward will pick up contamination,dust etc,try to wear as smooth clean as possible clothes while doing it,a fleece top with dog hairs on it will always end up on the film lol! im doing tints on a polo(almost same rear glass as a mk5 golf gti) considered one of the hardest windows in the industry to tint,i shall make a point of getting a video for you to see how i heat shrink! i will also get a video of me doing side windows on a corsa c,already done the polo side windows but the customer needed the car for emergency so back to finish the film wednesday1 another tip also,the width of the film,the factory edges,must always be top and bottom off the glass not up and down! i would also recommend using this to squeeze out the solution! http://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/windowtintingtools.asp a blue hard card its called,but a couple of them

sounds amazing

its easier to remove window film using steam,leaves very little glue behind,any remaining a spot of tar and glue remover with a blade,job done

ocdstigy

up the west coast coast then on to john o groats,its in the north 500 route,if you do drop me a message can show you some cool photos

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeIi6XTZYaE this guy is awesome,even i have picked up a couple of tips from him! p.s click his channel,loads of videos!

most certainly,if you polish paint without claybarring first of all,your polishing in bonded contaminants,which will in time diminish the paint finish.

let me know how you get on! post a pic up No problem at all,im logging on when i can to answer questions lol!

Cheers for the comments! I started of on a DA learning for 11months,ive used a rotary and various pad/polish combinations ever since! vauxhall nova with a c20let(2.0 turbo)

i 90% rebuilt this golf,wat a labour of love,i caught it at a classic car show! 5day detail on this mk1 rs we did drive 20miles to get this images it has a very light coat of dusting on it but still shiney! no tyre shine on here but paintwork complete cossie in progress! front bumper wet sanded at this point!

Hey guys n gals! here is a short portion of my Detailing work over 10 years,i thoroughly enjoyed my job,still dabbling in Detailing sometimes,i'll probably never ever leave Detailing alone,the rewards are satisfying(cleaning geek here) lol!! I hope you enjoy these pictures as much as i enjoyed doing the work! lambo! two days,34 hour detail! not all about the supercar,i will detail anything put in front of me! here is a corsa c sxi,before and after polishing,the sxi badge section was the paintwork before polishing(very badly swirled) minor scratches,the right section was two passes on the polisher(not complete) but a photo to show how bad paintwork can get! the rest are a random selection of cars detailed by myself! BEFORE(FIESTA) AFTER 50/50 SHOTS(FIESTA) LEFT UNTOUCHED/RIGHT POLISHED(PAINT CORRECTED) having a degree in photography does help take some cool photos

Im glad to help buddy! I was there one day,loads of products not a bloomin clue what was what! I have the advantage of being fortunate and lucky enough to have been involved in product development! its not about the most expensive but a good technique also! It sounds like the water is sticking to your car after a wash....which would suggest the paintwork is causing friction and spreading the water opposed to taking it off,have you claybarred the car buddy? this followed by a good polish and wax should see your next wash dry alot easier HERE IS A TIP TO AID DRYING.......... when your almost ready to dry,use the open end of a hose,water running out steady not to fast but not dribbling out or itll take forever! if you gently let the water run over the paint,it will dissipate the water of the paintwork,opposed to rinsing where it leaves water all over the car in a uniform manner,let thhe water run freely of thhe paint,leave it a few minutes and then try drying,i would do one swipe in one area and move on to the next,you will find if you try wipin the same area twice you are wipin water with water and it smears,certainly claybar polish wax and next round you will see a big difference with these tips! I still detail some cars and even now the new products out iam only just keeping up with!! you could use the dodo juice drying aid spray also,it seems unlikely spraying liquid on a car to aid drying,but worth a shot....however i will add these products are known to be of a synthetic content and do wear down wax coatings quicker! here are a few links to what i would recommend for your drying aid and colour DRYING TOWEL http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/washing-and-drying/drying-towels/monster-microfibre-purple-monster-edgeless-xl/prod_1297.html HAND POLISH http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/sonus-hand-polish-bundle/prod_29.html WAX http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/finishkare-2685-pink-wax/prod_590.html when applying these products,less is more,no need to throw it on like butter on bread,thin evenly spread out will sufficiently do the job,what alot of companies dont mention is polish has a 'breakdown' point,meaning applying it and wiping off dosnt really cut it,work the polish in the paint for 20seconds per section,then wipe off,also always apply polish n waxes in a straight line not in circles,this will minimize 'swirls' paint damage and light scratching, i hope this helps