Ryncewind

I suspesct my ringlands have gone after reading on the forums but would appreciate some opinions. Car was smoking like mad but only on idle, i blocked the pcv and it stopped snoking after 10 mins or so. The turbo isnt leaking ive had that off and checked it. Compression test results were

Dry - 140 170 150 150

Wet - 170 170 180 170

I took the oil cap off with the engine running and its blowing through that like mad, I can feel it pulsing, my breather next to the oil filler is also drowning in oil. Appreciate any input. Thanks!

Year: 1981
Model: RX7 SA22C
Tax: No
MOT: No
Mileage: 113k (I think, Will confirm later)


Description:
First gen RX7, Have to sell to fund Glanza repairs. Car is a rolling project and will need some work to get back on the road. Bought it in December 2015, got the engine running that night using a Lucozade bottle full of petrol, It ran nice but wouldn't idle, Probably due to being gravity fed from the bottle. Everything underneath the car has been removed, Sandblasted and repainted, The floor was wire wheeled and resealed with Hammerite. All lower arms and the rear axle were painted in Hammerite too. All the bushes have been replaced with poly's from Energy suspension. Car has a new break master cylinder in December 2015, I bled the breaks at that time and they worked well without any leaks, I'd recommend rebuilding the calipers though as the car was sat for 14 years prior to me buying it. Front lower arms are from TechnoToyTuning and I have a harness bar from them too still in the box, Both of these cost me around £1000 after all the related import charges and shipping ect. Paintwork on the car is shite and will need a respray, The engine bay has been sanded back and painted in Hammerite aswell, Brush job though so don't expect some perfection, Though it looks a lot better than before. Fuel tank is solid without any holes or leaks but it would benefit from some POR15 treatment. I planned on having a new one made so It has just been living on the garage floor since it came off the car around January 2016. I have all new window and door seals for the car still in their boxes, New clutch slave cylinder and new inner and outer tie rods in their boxes. There is 3 spots of rust/rot on the car that I have found (I've been deep in this car) There is a small patch probably around 2 inches squared with a few small holes in the top of the firewall, The drivers side front wing has some rot at the bottom of it with some holes and the last is on the inside of the arch on the passenger side, I can get pictures of all of this if you want to see for yourself. Everything I have removed from the car I still have. Exhaust, Bonnet, Bumper, Radiator ect ect. Gearbox has been off the car to check the clutch which was in good condition with plenty of meat left on it, box was painted while it was out and so was the propshaft. Anyway if you have any questions please do ask or I'll be here all night writing about the car. I can get any pictures you require but I think it's best if you come and have a look at the car yourself if you're serious about buying it. You will obviously need a trailer or some other method of removing it from the garage it has lived in since December 2015.


Price: £1000



Pictures: I can send more on request, Just ask.






Contact Details: Please PM me on here and we can sort something out.

Could say you believe they have hit your car...

Yeah as above what Ramses said. The TPS is on the back of the throttle body. It's has 3 wires going to it. The sensors position is adjustable. You can set it up with feeler gauges and a multimeter. I had terrible problems where I'd be in traffic and fan was cutting in etc. Then when I went to accelerate it would cut out/bog down really bad (I have a wide band and I could see it was getting no fuel). Long story short after a load of other issues were identified, turns out the TPS wasn't set correctly and was causing it to lean right out.

As for the ECU coolant temp sensor there should be a green plug with two wires going to it. That's for the ECU. Best to check continuity in the wires etc. The sensors themselves are usually fine it's usually the wiring that's deteriorated.

If I were you at this stage I'd go somewhere quiet, let it get warm until it starts doing it. Then I'd crack off the two screws holding the TPS in position and slowly and gradually rotate it. Rinse and repeat, see if it makes a difference.

Or you could uplug it all together. Idle will shoot up and you will lose overrun and it won't drive too good but it will help you identify the root cause.

I will have a good look at the TPS and its wiring then, Thanks for that!

The thing with my coolant sensor is the wiring for it has been shit since i bought the car but the cutting out has only been happening for the past few months. Leading me to believe the temp sensor isnt the issue or it would have been cutting out since I bought it?

I also can't make the car cut out. It's totally random, I have no idea when it's going to do it, I can just start the car up in a morning and it will die at the bottom of the road, Or i can go out all night on a spirited drive and come back without any issues. Like i say it can be fine for weeks then 1 day cut out 6 times and fine for a week. Car runs really nice when normally. Doesn't overheat or overboost or anything.

How many people are on the stand so far? Do you know?

You checked the main ECU earth and the earth to the injectors located on the inlet manifold on the ICV side, on one of the ICV bolts there is an earth, tighten it up if it is loose as i had fuel cutting issues as it was rattling around while driving.

Wouldn't it just not work at all if my ECU earth was shit? I'll check the one for the injectors, Thanks for that.

On top of what's already been mentioned, check ECU coolant temp sensor and wiring and also TPS. when it cuts out and won't start, unplug the TPS and try it. It will idle high without the TPS plugged in mind...

The wiring for my coolant sensors are a joke, the green one just has 1 single wire from it and that is cut and the other one with the spade on it (Think it's for the gauge on the dash?) Doesn't really work. Saying that they were like that before the car started cutting out. And by TPS do you mean the Throttle Position Sensor? My car doesn't have a TPS it's just a cable. Or have I missed something there? Thanks!

Edit: Car got me to work this morning without a problem. and got me 98% of the way home until i nailed up my hill and it cut out once i pressed the clutch at the top of the hill, Took the key out and left it for about 5 seconds and it fired back up. Back down the road after a turn around and again i press the clutch to reverse onto my drive and it died again but fired right back up. Seems the cutting out happens more often when I'm either stopped at traffic lights or when i come off and press the clutch.

Sometimes if i unplug the connector on the ignition module it will work again, sometimes not, seems like a loose wire but im not sure as like i say, it can be fine for weeks and weeks then just randomly cut out and not start one day. When the car works, it works fine. doesn't missfire, boosts fine and doesn't creep. I'll check the 2 wires to the coilpack

Ok so I've been having this problem for months. My Glanza will cut out whenever it likes and sometimes it will start right back up, sometimes it refuses and i have to get recovered. It seems to do it when im sat in traffic or when I'm slowing down and press the clutch and the revs drop. It has done this for months now. when it first did it i replaced the thermostat as that was dead and then it was fine for a few weeks. thought that was the end of it, nope. Did it again. So now I've replaced the plugs. HT leads, King lead, Coil, ignition module. I've re drilled the holes in the firewall on the coil bracket and put new nuts and bolts on them and an earthing cable. It was fine for weeks but on the way home from work today it cut out 4 times in the space of 5 miles. I'm totally lost with it now and all out of ideas. Any help? Thanks in advance!

Is it actually getting fuel into the cylinders though?

Is it getting fuel?

When you say they are strict on class over in napa what ya mean.

Well music sun is all good but poon is top of all mens list I guess loool

Very strict on Class A. So no getting sniffed out of your face hahaha

If you have no luck with those options, Try checking the earths on the coil to the firewall, I've had a few issues with that myself. Car randomly cutting out and not starting again. Might be worth a look!

I'm 23, Got my Glanza around 9 months ago, It's my first Starlet and my first turbo car!

Looks really smart, Might have to stick one of those on my shopping list lol

Looking smart! I like that splitter on the front, Do you know what it's from?

I remember seeing this on the bay and thinking it looked like a good project for someone! Nice to see a thread on it looks like its gone to a good home.

I have a Jperformance one and its holding up well, I can't fault it.

Got mine printed out ready to go! Car broke down last night though so lets hope I still make it haha

Id-Workz sell these if you want them new.

http://id-workz.co.uk/Makes/toyota/starlet/starlet-turbo-ep82-and-ep91/exterior-ep91

Just seen you drive past with an EP2 behind! You on here?

I'm in

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-TURBO-S-EP71-3dr-PETROL-MANUAL-1988-E-/162400653654?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Looking at grabbing a glanza myself after being with the vw group for too long, wish i had the cash now but will soon, those 70hr weeks are paying off.

But how about a trade a Audi A4 B7 sline 1.8t worth more and would be an easy sell

If it's an easy sale, Sell it. Cash is king.

That's nice of Driftworks!

Need one myself, Greese all over my starter motor hahah! oops