mycars12

Sadly the distributor setup isnt the best. Adding a resistor to the positive cam signal wire should help a bit. Other than that you can try doing the tooth mod to convert the signal to only use the crank trigger and eliminate the cam sensor. My car revved out fine without using a resistor but applying the filters in the software for the cam and crank signal. I will be using the crank sensor and trigger wheel from the 5efe motor for my built bottom end that im in the process of building. 

On my 4e I had speed cut come in around 118mph. You got a couple options. You'll have to search the forum for details but you can cut the yellow wire (if I'm not mistaken should be gas) and deal with a check engine light (can install switch when u want to go over the certain speed and switch off when not using to work around check engine light) or get a speed limiter defender

Just sharing what I have read. Ive seen c52 handle 500+ whp but no 6 speed will handle that unless its a dogbox. Just what is tried and true is that the C5x boxes are stronger than the C1x
C1x were mostly economy trans and C5x were built stronger. C52/C56 even came with an extra brace for the case of the trans. 

The main issue is with all that torque the gears are basically pulling themselves apart from each other. 3rd is the gear that is known to fail the most often on high hp applications. 

by the way the c52 is alot stronger than that 6speed. From what I've read the 6speed don't like more than 200hp but then again how you drive makes quite the difference.

Please loctite those bolts on the cam gear. Seen too many people not have them tight or locitie and it moved

I would replace them lol

That sucks about the sleeve.

Hopefully that fixes the issue!!

Not fun pulling a box out for a seal

Was trying to give you my whatsapp so i could help you out. Might have to modify the map a bit. The hardest part is usually getting the base timing right then the proper settings and firing order. 

Check that your timing is spot on at 10 degrees according to what its showing in the system. 

After that check your firing order to see what it is. Most are 1342. Also they had a notorious problem of not listing the displacement properly under their maps

4efte is 1331cc and 5e should be 1497cc

Also try and check the tooth logger to see if you are getting any noise or any errors.

Since you are cop you will be using batch fire instead of seq I believe. 

Any specific questions you have about your setup?

Update? 👀

Are you using the me221 basemap?

Send a private message

lol it was not that bad. It would just cut out and the rpms would go down. Wasnt that bad of a misfire. Granted I am using the dizzy to get the cam and crank signal. 

Did you check your first tooth and verify that you locked the timing to 10 degrees and checked it with a timing light?

It was misfiring and having sync loss at lower rpms below 750. Then it would randomly misfire at around 950(idle). It was fine above that.

With the tunerstudio filters applied my car is running fine now on the microsquirt ecu. No errors for now. Just used to stock distributor wires from the harness. The filter was enough to reduce the signal noise and not cause any misfires at all. 

Issue is fixed

I am running my 4efte on microsquirt. EP82 motor and I am trying to figure out what the frequency you guys use in tunerstudio is. Trying to dial in my idle valve to help with a smoother idle and cold start. 

Replace the wring from the distributor? I was making a jumper harness to run from the oem harness to the microsquirt. Replacing the wires would sort of defeat the purpose of the jumper harness. Would the only other way be to convert it to a 12-1 by grinding teeth off?

If I'm not mistaken the factory harness already has it shielded? 

*Edit*

Replaced with shielded cables from distributor in the bay straight to the ECU and still have the noise issue. Will shave 2 teeth off the distributor and see if that remedies my problem. 

Replace the wring from the distributor? I was making a jumper harness to run from the oem harness to the microsquirt. Replacing the wires would sort of defeat the purpose of the jumper harness. Would the only other way be to convert it to a 12-1 by grinding teeth off?

If I'm not mistaken the factory harness already has it shielded? 

I have recently been fitting a standalone and on tunerstudio under the logging it shows alot of cam signal noise but the crank signal is fine. Is there a way to remedy this noise without having to shave down any teeth?

Ep82 4efte using 24+1 oem distributor. 

You will need a variable tps. This tps only reads full throttle, idle, and closed I believe. For your ground for the tps you should have a wire going to your "sensor ground" which is where your other sensors like coolant, intake air temp, and map sensor would ground at. If im not mistaken TPS 5v would be your vref 5v, your psw should be tps sensor input , and idl should be the ground. 

Like I said thought the manual 4e tps is useless since it only reads open and closed. If your running the 4e tps better off tuning with speed density. If you do some more research you will see that the gtr tps is your best bet.  

All I gotta say is holy gauges!

Many people in the U.S. have used 4e and 5e engines and 300 to 400whp is achieved with stock caps. There is even a 524whp turbo 5e that lasted with the stock main caps but when pushing that power many things start to go wrong. The main caps were not the first to give. 

Deleting the heater core? Didnt see any hoses connected to it.

Does anyone have experience with a holset he221w or a he211w on a 4efte?

Information is hard to come by with them and is mostly used on diesel applications but the compressor map is amazing

He211w (Red lines came on the pic)

He221w

Thinking it could be quite responsive on a stock 4e. 

I like how the rods look. Seems promising. Any time frame at all? Like this year? 😅

Looking really clean so far!

Just curious as to how you added camber in the rear. Cut and welded the ends of the beam?