RoyalDutchie

19 hours ago, burty said:

Gutted really enjoyed this thread was it the sills that finished it off ? 

Great news on another glanza though be sure to start a new build thread

The sills would still be fixable within a week or a bit more. The other bits like a cut and patched loom dented rear and rusted wheel well. Rusted battery mount and a few bits of the frame rusted. Really starts to add up and with the other projects I have, it made more sense getting a good one.

If everything works out I'll be getting a paseo (hopefully a blue one) and swap it with the 4efte and get it registered so it is a legal swap. Seen a red 1999 one in very good condition with the optional rear glanza disc brakes, but will needs to be a pre 1998 spec, since one after 1997 costs 1k or more to get everything on paper instead of 50-100.

Build thread will most likely only be on tgtt, it's just a bit more active over there. Seems the admins are not really active here anymore, could be wrong....

This glanza has come to it's end most likely, the engine will live on inside a paseo or something the otherbits will  be parted out most likely. 

But not to worry another glanza has been bought and I'll be picking it up next week.

32 minutes ago, snails ep91 said:

assume nothing ever happened with this..

https://coolerworx.com/products/coolerworx-short-throw-shifter-toyota-starlet-glanza

One dutchie is now running one aswell

3 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Areo deck is this the h22 engine? 

I really do love the classic cars. Great buy. 

Got a A20A4 with 12 valves. Also got fuel injection boosting it to an output of 120hp and 166nm😅

1 hour ago, SKINY said:

 

Soon... We could do a race and see whose car turns to Japanese gold dust first right😆 

11 hours ago, Sam44 said:

What model is this. 

Love retro, old school classics, there getting so very rare now. If you are going to get one now is the time. 

It's a third generation Honda Accord Aerodeck, representing pop ups and the mighty sportbrake at its finest including a very welcome independent double wishbone suspension. 

The old school cars are really getting rare and beyond very expensive as well. Picked this one up at a reasonable price, but included alot of work aswell. Which I'll be sorting with the help of a few other lads.

There it is the replacement for the ae111 which I would have bought instead if this one didn't pop up. Rear arches need to be replaced and a few other places need attention but all just in time to not be a massive project. Will need a proper swap once it is restored.

Happy 2022 all.

Sounds like a great plan Sam. Paseo’s really are a dying breed. 

Was thinking about getting a Corolla Levin ae111 this year and do a few mods to it. But something else crossed my path the second of January so if that one is bought the levin will be removed from the list of things including the list of mods for the current daily civic. Maintaining a levin in the Netherlands is way to hard though and most parts would need to be sourced from abroad. Think the glanza is the better example of a maintainable car here since most bits can be replaced with standard Starlet parts. 

This should also be the year for refurbing most of the glanza and building it to the final state I want it to be and start enjoying it. After this stage I won’t be chancing much to the glanza anymore. Don’t want to be chasing never ending power goals.

1 hour ago, Claymore said:

I've had a look on the 4efe I have and there isn't a huge amount of space to fit this type of adapter and then the Toyota sensor in the end as the sensor or wiring plug may hit the clutch slave pipe. Also the wiring plug may not reach the sensor:

The adapter with hose that akayakpotter suggested will be fine as it relocates the adapter at the end of a hose.

Or there is an oil filter sandwich plate (D1 spec) that may fit without modding the power steering pump bracket.

@Frankieflowers @RoyalDutchie

I currently have the adapter akayakpotter mentioned ready to go on. Reduces the load on the thread in comparison to the extension I mentioned before. The actual oil pressure reading should also be very accurate at that location only the risk of damage if any metal shavings are present is very high.

I've bought a d1 spec one(just like you did😅), should be arriving somewhere next year(not easy to source anymore to be fair with Toyota thread). One Dutchy had great experience with them fitting without any work, so had to check it out myself. Maybe he got a very rare spec, he did bought it 8 years ago but with regards to the pictures he send me they haven't changed.

On 11/28/2021 at 2:44 PM, Djaniero said:

The matrix pipes that go through the bulk head were red hot yesterday. So I assumed the core would be the same/similar temps also. However as you both said, coolant may not be flowing into the actual core. Do either of you know how a core could be re-cored incorrectly?

When I replaced the heater core, I also replaced the perished foam inside the actual heater box, but triple checked everything to ensure it was put back properly etc.

The only other point to make - unsure if this is normal - but while the blowers were on full yesterday I could feel ice cold air blowing near the blower resistor ?

 

 

 

Only way I would think it could be recored incorrectly is when it is possible to bypass the core itself(Flow follows the red arrow instead of the green ones).

But maybe someone else would be able to help you with other possibilities.

Amazing work. Really like the look of fresh plated bolts and nuts.

Also in the process of mounting a z-line intercooler and representing RS-R with the panhard rod. Amazing part, can't really get any better panhard in my opinion.

Sorry mate, meant the c160 and c161/2 gearboxes. Got them mixed up with others. Indeed the c163(c161/2 I meant) is the g6 gearbox, pretty hard to come by these days in the Netherlands.

What 6 speed will you be running? The c160, c161/c162?

Nice build you have going. Especially like the color, have though about spraying the glanza in the same color(since getting a prefacelift in the correct color is near impossible now).

inspected the first bit of the sill to see how bad it might be. Doesn't seem to be that bad, but we all know what lurks beneath.

The only thing left is checking if the core gets hot then. Seems the coolant may not be flowing through the complete core. Maybe the air flows past it instead of through the core? Not sure if that is even possible, but at this point should be considering every possibility.

4 hours ago, Claymore said:

Hmmmm Type R rep or Sleeper?

You know my vote 

Sure do, I'll start with the sleeper look anyways since it is cheaper and still have a choice then.

6 hours ago, wakeabby14 said:

Car sold unfortunately! end of my build, Been a fun journey in the starlet scene but onto bigger things.  Starlets will always have a big place in my heart and probably wont be my last one.  Until then peace out.

Always read your posts with much joy. Good luck with your next project I'm sure it will be an another gem as well.

3 hours ago, Claymore said:

Well done for checking the sills out mate, sometimes you have to know! They don't look too bad.

Flow formed = big win. Used to have a set Team dynamics pro race rims on a previous car as they were forged many years ago, unfortunately it seems that their alloys are now all low pressure die cast unless you have an Elise. 

Bought any bits for the Honda yet.... is it d16 powered?

Checked them a while back, not the worst but have to be fixed. I hope it is only the outer sill. Anyways to fix it right most will require the complete sill to be done. Could do a few patches but Doing it right in one go is the way to go. if only for peace of mind. The car will be in dry storage for most of the time now anyways. Air is dry enough to not cause any corrosion on the discs yet.

Indeed bought these wheels not only because they look amazing, they are also extremely rare here (the Dutch do like there JR and in some rare cases rota's😅). Being flow formed is indeed also a big win. Was looking for these for a while now, but wasn't sure if they would fit, with a few calculations and test fitting them I'm more confident they will fit just right. Fingers crossed🤞 Have a set of jdm coilovers and a panhard to get everything dialed in just right.

Done general maintenance on the Honda(change all the filters, fluids and belts). Also got the AC checked and filled which now works great again. Changed the exhaust for a stainless SRS g35 which doesn't sound like the general honda fart can( Did buy one of those new and returned it not much later). When you knock on those cheap mufflers and pipes you can literally hear the resonance, they just sound like tin cans. The SRS is much better build, no sound when knocking on the  muffler and general solid feel to them.  Currently powered by a d14a4 with 90ps when it was new. Thinking about swapping it with a b18c4 and turning it into a sunrise yellow type r rep, or keep it like this and make it a sleeper. The purple is growing on me just need to polish it and should be gold again.

Been a while since I've updated this. Have a new place to work on the car and store it. Also bought a new daily a 6th gen civic with 82k kilometers on it now and with all the luxuries I need. Besides the civic there is also another JDM Toyota I'm looking into, we'll see.

Cleaned and inspected the sills, the right one is just going and the left one is gone, at least the outside and some of the inside. One of the previous owners put underseal on the outside of the sills, which of course doesn't do much more than conceal the rust going on in the inside.

right:

The right sill is worse, or at least it show how bad they are:

Inside pic of the sill with the hole a bit further:

Already have the replacements for the outside will be sorting this, somewhere in the winter before next summer hits.

On the bright side a bought a new set of flow formed konig wheels 15x7.5 et35, on the pic they have a 5mm spacer fitted putting them on the edge of what can be fitted. I will be running the without the spacers which will put them in a position where they have the same gap between the wheel and shock as a 7j et42 wheel. also they are 3.5mm more intruded in the wheel well compared too a 7j et25 some people fit without much scrubbing. Will be running them with slightly stretched falken ziex ze310 195/45's. These only weigh in about 11.6 lbs.

You are able to buy them from china. Bought a set of 2 a while ago for 8 euro's ea(bit more expensive now due too tax).

If you search 175448-6 on aliexpress you'll find them.

Good job getting them replaced, I imagine it was a big job. It seems they are getting beyond the point of scrapping and worth fixing these days. 

I'm also looking to replace mine somewhere between December and feb. Right sill the paint just started too bubble up and the left side has some holes. The inside seems to be kinda fine only the outer sill is mostly rusty. 

Do you have any tips or thing you would do different if you have to weld them again?

Most likely due to demand and availability. gt and glanza are almost exclusive to the JDM market. Some brands made some aftermarket headlights, but those where more expensive than new oem back in the days.  In the end everything trickled down to the current state.

9 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Always nice to read your posts.

I am figuring out a few things after my swap and because my mechanic doubted that my new timing belt is correctly in place I spoke to my friend who installed it do you understand if we did something wrong. We installed the timing belt in the right direction where you can read Toyota and crankshaft position was correct and the camshaft pulley was also in the correct position with its hole seeing through. We didn’t move anything I am double checked a couple of times. When we released the tensioner we also checked again to make sure. Is there a particular symptom with this engine when the timing belt is a camshaft dent off? In my opinion the engine runs well. I have other issues to solve. Let me know your opinion. Thanks

If the marks line up, the engine is in most cases timed correctly I had to turn my camshaft a few degrees clockwise(I guess it is advanced instead of retarded timing) since the tensions pulled the slack out of the cambelt which in turn threw the timing of at the camshaft, in my case the hole didn't line up with the notch in the block.

If it is off by by one tooth/dent the car will have either advanced a bit or retarded the timing. This can be noticeable powerwise, but not sure if the engine changes a lot. People with more knowledge about this should be able to answer this more clearly. 

I would at least get a timing gun somewhere and check if the timing is within spec by shorting pin Te1 and E1. Should be 9-11 BTDC, adjust it to 10 BTDC if outside spec.

9 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Great work. I need a left side lens for my reflex light it has a corner edge chip the is driving me crazy do you have a part number for it. 

81561-10350, should still be available for about 62 euros. Be careful when removing the lens they can break easily, also when installing the screws do not overdo them. I've had a few sets with cracks due to overtightened screws which keep going overtime to form a very noticeable crack.

I've been busy the last month. Changed the oil and replaced the gearbox mount front side. Only one left to replace is the one connected to the engine which is next. No pics of the process, but it is done.

Finally replaced the center vents which was a though job, needed to remove the complete dash which was a pain, few pics:

Installed the optional mk2 rescue man in a convenient place:

Also permanently installed the facelift bumper with lip and replaced the rear light looms to support the angled rear blinker bulbs. New lens for the rear reflet lights (also have a new set of lenses spare for the future). These are also installed on the car, the rear fog light was swapped with a red bulb which turned out to be more pink. Waiting on a new dark one and a led bulb. depending on the color I may go with the led bulb since it is tapped from another bulb so no problems with strange obd codes if this is even possible with these cars. Did have a 42 code or something from the abs due to 2 rear light bulbs being broken, pretty strange after just swapping the looms. Fixed for now will keep my eye on it.

Probably forgot a few things, pretty busy lately. Quite a few things around the corner, we have measured the fmic and a new set of wheels and a set of coilovers are nearly ready to go on.

Watch this space.

Thanks mate, really appreciate that. Will see what happens.