RoyalDutchie

Haven't checked the shims for now. Was thinking about possible damage during machining etc. If only the center of the lobes make contact these chips should have passed "quality" control. Only the centers of the lobes seem to have minimal marks on some so  most are still polish to a mirror finish if the shim would have been damaged this will defiantly show up around the edge where the damage is. At least that is what I would be expecting. only 3-4 lobes have these chips the rest is fine.

15 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Great choise. 

Speed vision billet are the biggest overlap and lift I can find but I think they still keep the engine none interference. 

The acis manifold will not really affect the ct9 b unless you use cams this is were this manifold comes into its own and why it was made the 5ehfe acis engine has some crazy overlap cams I'd say race spec, not what you find at all on road vehicles they make torque late in the rpm range and to the 7krpm red line. The acis manifold is to help the low rpm torque by increasing air Velocity (vetec basically) and darn good from what I've seen on graphs. 

The manifold needs the cams tbh. There designed for each other. Unless the acis is used on a big turbo to hit over 300hp the manifold will help bring a better daily drive. 

A td04l 13t, using a good external gate (not eBay gates), using the cams and acis manifold would be very good couple this with a sixspeed box and you ain't getting beat on the street. And that would be at boost levels safe for a standard engine around .8bar id estimate around 190hp with some kick ass torque. But it's the power graph that you will feel 5e levels. Hunting speeds down easily. 

Another option would be a tongs ct9b (most hybrid's I've seen use the ct9a smaller exhaust port/housing, the ct9b is bigger producing better torque) on cams and the acis very very similar to the td04l setup the bigger exhaust turbine will delay spool but increase topend torque by reducing exhaust back pressure. I'm hoping the ct9b option would spool earlier but both should pull till Redline and make good hp on relatively low boost. 

I've recently felt a 5e on a Garrett gt17 sixspeed lsd using 5ehfe acis cams. Scary fast motorbike speeds. Constant pull it does not stop pulling hard. The gt17 is basically a ct9 sized turbo I'm not even sure if it's ball-bearing. 

 

 

Massive amounts of information there😁. I was mostly thinking about a good ct9 replacement which spools about 600-700 rpms later but keeps pulling to redline.  Also want one where balanced cartridges are available from reputable places for a good price. Maybe the gt17 is a good alternative that fit these criteria. 

16 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Not much wrong with the atomisation I'd say the boil off looks very low very clean. 

Boil off can be seen on the 2x center plugs on the earth electrode, dry & brown in colour tells me possibly oil vapour.

Now you have a catch can fitted see if this changes over 6 month of running if not possible valve stem seals. 

I'm stuck in between the 2xdifferent plugs at the minute. The platinum can be a problem with much higher cylinder temps also. 

With you being on stock boost on a cooler plug than standard factory it's looking good. pretty even cylinder temps tbf. I'd say you could drop a heat range for better proformance, as you would expect to see.

If you start to increase boost levels things will become clearer especially since you have started to read these plugs that are looking to be in a happy place. 

Most of the builds I'm seeing and having experience on are running either .9 to 1bar of boost common supporting mods. This starts to bring the engine out of its working parameters. 

This is the first very close to standard factory high low boost that I've seen the plugs on. 

If you get me. 

Believe in what you are seeing as you tune you will see things change quickly and now you have a base to work from. 

Do you know the factory plug number by any chance dutchie. 

My working outs I'd say it should be a heat range 6 but id be very interested in seeing. 

Every 1 I've see now around 8 motors are all running 7 and 8 heat ranges and all I'd say could run a 6 in some cylinders. 

 

The factory plugs have oem number 90919-01178. These seem to be denso pk20r11's platinum plugs. On the denso scale they are heat range 20 with a spark gap of 1.1

Checking the table blow they seem to be equal to ngk heat range 6 even though  they have a gap of .3mm more.

Any gains with stock to 0.7 bar of boost on a tongs turbo? What is the going rate of speedvision cams?

Do love the glanza currently going to keep it for ever, but we have seen some change their mind after a long time owning one so we wil see what wil happen.

Just measured the spark plugs.

1-0.80mm

2-0.85mm

3-0.85mm

4-0.80mm

(Seems to me the oil deposits may be accelerating the wear of the electrodes)

You are tempting me, I'm actually interested in an alternative ct9 turbo was thinking about a k1-200v, but a tongs turbo may actually preform way beter(I'm still a student so it can take some time before I have the funds). If I get a hold of the 5efhe intake a turbo upgrade becomes required to be fair.  Currently I'm afraid of boost creep because of all the breathing mods. Still have a blitz (facelift) decat laying about and soon a full exhaust with greddy bm-ti muffler. I'm afraid an external boost wastegate is the only option soon, even though I have been contemplating about a new cast for the exhaust side with bigger wastegate(can't do this myself yet but time wil tell).

note:

Do hate that the msg system doesn't work here. Have send you a pm on tgtt.

The minimal wear on the electrodes is pretty amazing for 5 years, but the car only did about 20-30k km.

Tbf I think the civic half rad with 1.3 bar  pressure cap keept the temp/pressure at a fairly consistent rate. Fan doesn't kick in much only when stationary. 

In the 3.5 year I didn't own the car with these plugs it did run with a blitz ecu and maybe something else aswell.

Have kept it as is since I owned it as a first car to check the state of the car which actually seems to be pretty good. Dropped to heat range 6 copper plug today. Also running bp 98 octane which doesn't have any ethanol in it, may also have a contribution in the current health of the engine. Car also has low boost delete, so it runs on 0.6 bar consistently.

Since it is my daily right now I'm going to keep it a stock boost, but I'm starting with the first few mods to improve the quality of the engine. Like a new exhaust manifold to get a more even flow from the engine to exhaust. Probably the closed back water pump to reduce cavitation inside the engine block. And of course a good fmic to remove to top mount engine "heater".  Looking into a first gen impreza wrx sti v6 from Japan as a second car so I hope this one keeps preforming as it is.

May be picking up some identical ones soon, in the Netherlands they are actually pretty common. Lots of people still drive starlets here and once they became to expensive they get broken for parts.

Nice finds, looking forward to the progress you wil be making. My passenger side door is also rusting, nearly starts looking like a common point. 

The minimal scouring seems to be just located near the center so doesn't seem to be wobbling around.  Pretty sure Toyota didn't care about the casting imperfections since they are located outside the contact area. These engines still are the budget ones from Toyota, can't compare them to the quality of the 3sgte.

Actually trying to get a 5efthe acis manifold soon, Don't know if it is off use with a stock ct9b, but the td04l is on the horizon for now.

Do you know where to get these "race" high lift cams?

If all cams have nearly the same ones it should be a engineering mistake inside the mold. Seems to be nearly impossible to have the same air bubbles every time.

note:

Actually was thinking about billets since I though they where at their final pace, but have been spending enough lately. Maybe some day once it is need I get some upgraded cams.

by the way I did notice the to lifter on the left top where brown wil check if I have a pic.

On the lifter? Seems strange to me nearly looks like they have been nibbled away by an outside source

Was impressed by the state of the contact parts after 22 years, the scouring seems to be minimal.

note:

These engines keep looking cheaper and cheaper😂 These days they would vacuum cast the cams etc to prevent these kind of imperfections. 

Got copper ones now since they are more conductive and more resistant to deposits. Have been running a breather filter for the center vent and recently started running an catch can between pcv and inlet which I custom made with lost of material to condensate the oil inside the air. Have seen quite a few mistakes with this car from previous owners so it wouldn't surprise me.

Recently swapped my ecu and currently seeing 35.28 mpg instead of the previous 31.75 mpg. If mpg increases even more I would be pretty impressed.

Any alternative injectors with better  fuel atomisation   than stock without the risk of running to rich on stock boost?

The engine also uses minimal amounts of oil. Havent seen a drop in the 1.5 year I owned the car(changed the oil once. Oil should be changed soon but still no drop on the oil gauge).

Thx again Sam, Trying to gather as much knowledge as possible, but in practices things seem to be much harder to relate to the theory I have been reading about.

In the 1.5 years I owned the car they have done about  388km each month.

Car is completely stock just ac delete and relocation of filter to the front of the bumper. Still need to install the fmic to drop inlet temps but still waiting on new stock for a short route.

They are Bkr7eix actually dropped a heat range to  bkr6e.

note:

Should really start a build blog soon, much progress in the last few days.

Seems like the charcoal canister build a bit of pressure in the tank before the valve opens. This is expelled once the fuel cap is opened.

After about 5 years I replaced the sparks plugs inside the engine. They looked good to me just a bit old, but just the be sure I'm making a post about them. The one on the right is closest to the dizzy.

I'm sorted just to let you know.

corsa c sxi discs are the correct ones in the UK. Some advertise them as 256mm while the same are 260mm in the Netherlands which is kinda strange.

I personally wouldn't grind in a complete levin set(they are pretty uncommon these days). Just get some cheap 260mm vauxhall gsi discs and make a spigot ring once.  With the vauxhall option you also get an extra 5mm of disc width and 4mm of thickness(same as the levin discs to my knowledge when it comes to width and thickness of the discs).

Cosworth seems to go to 1.5 bar right. Mishimoto is also an option for 19 psi or 28 psi rad caps for about 23 euro's including shipping.

note:

verifying your email address should make it possible to send and receive pms.

Strang maybe pm an admin or mod about this.

Checked the charcoal canister today. when I removed the hose it blew out some air mixed with gas. So it seems like there is pressure inside  the gastank and line to the charcoal canister.

Also checked if the air hole underneath the charcoal canister both was able to release pressure and vacuum and it did both without any problems. so the canister breaths fine and doesn't seem to be clogged(checked if air came out of the connector to the fuel tank to check that one as well).  Connector on the charcoal canister to the fuel tank also didn't build any pressure when blowing through it, did take a bit of effort though(tested with a clean hose attached to it).

Thx mate, the 4efte has an electric evap valve which connects the charcoal canister to the throttle body. Reinstalled it a about 6 weeks ago. Could have been pressure, but still shouldn't happen. Will check tomorrow when I arrive at work which of both it is. might be a case of a clogged filter😟.

Recently reinstalled a charcoal canister from a glanza with working evap solonoid. refiled the car a few times when it was still cold without any noticeable issues. Today I removed to filler cap after driving for a few hours and I noticed it sucked in air. Any one knows if this is to be expected or should the canister be able to provide air to the gas tank. Will check the lines from and to the canister and probably replace them with some good fuel resistant ones of any damage is found.

20 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Ive just knocked this up on one of the gearboxes I have here. 

Strengthend rear center engine mount. I'm going to paint and fit it to the 6speed starleto.  

Productive 2days back to work tomorrow.  

Also some information I've been sent about the water pump impeller I'm running.

This and a low temp thermostat really allowed some good boost pressure to be put threw the n/a engine

 

 

Looks like an intrestring tuning book, would like to improve the impeller myself on the next timing belt change. Engine mount looks plenty strong😲.

The mr2 discs would be a great fit for the levin setup, but due to the overal thickness of the disc they require spacers withe them levin setup. edmania on adverts(.)ie has a few sets of levin twin pots laying about ranging from about 100 euros to 200 depending on the overal condition(there is some wigle room, got mine for 90 euros). You can find his ad by searching for "levin ae111 bzg 4age 96 for parts".

Can't say anything about the difference in brake pipe position,  my knowledge does not go beyond the Levin setup.

It is more common to swap the calipers with ae111 brz twin pots instead and use vauxhaul corsa gsi 260mm brake discs(these do need center rings to convert from 60mm to 55mm(Was thinking about a steel pipe 55mm ID and 60mm OD to make rings off)). MR2 brake caliper mounting holes also do not line up with the starlet hubs(to my knowledge).

For pads the ae111 calipers use mr2 (04465-12160) pads

Few pics(red is mr2 caliper and the iron one is from the ae111).