Jump to content

BAZ2CRAZY

Member
  • Content Count

    1256
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BAZ2CRAZY

  1. I dont think many other people do lol Mitch
  2. ive changed the video i posted. Mitch
  3. wtf! Mitch edit:glanza(different vid)
  4. You would be a STAR if you did that, my problem will be the time that i have to complete the whole swap, as i dont think i would be able to afford getting another car while the starbo's off the road and time off work is limited, so a write up on the wiring will be awsome. I also hope you get 200bhp thats what il be aiming for! All the best Mitch
  5. ah i see, well it would be the nuts/bolts holding the adjustable top mount to the struts on the car. There should be three each side. Mitch
  6. Not sure if this has been found yet but.. Basic; http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...01.html?#t101_5 Advanced; http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech102.html Expert; http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech103.html Perhaps a mod could sap some of the info for the wiki-resource? Mitch
  7. Checked the top mounts are nice and tight? Mitch
  8. I love that advance, i once dreamt about it... Did you end up keeping it? Mitch
  9. Yep, i use it daily. When i first start it so it ticks over around 1k-1100 revs, it resonates the whole car so everythings 'humming'. When im sitting in traffic on normal tick over, the steering wheel vibrates. Its nothing bad at all, its just noticable over standard. Also it now sounds asif i have removed the mid-box from the exhaust as like i said above, the engine resonates the whole chassis. I wonder what itl be like with both g'box mounts done... all i can say is it really has changed how the whole car feels, now it feels ready,tight. Mitch
  10. So a big thanks to Bean for these; To replace this; With this; Ive yet to fit the gearbox front/rear mounts and cant wait to be honest, the engine mount has made a HUGE difference and i recommend anyone to replace there mounts with poly's. Vibrates like a bitch! Mitch
  11. '**WIRING** right we have established that for the wiring, we will need the engine loom from the same year gt, as we need the plugs to fit the sensors on the engine. the NA has a few of them missing compared to the gt. seems annoying im going to pay a fair amount just for some plastic plugs but thats how it is i think. other than using electrical spade connectors and being a pykie! so once this has turned up shud see an end in sight for wiring issues. ' Sorry for being a NUB. but is the loom one long loom or is is split into chunks? Or will you need to wire the GT loom throughout the whole
  12. What a wanker. cant blame him though, im sure you ALL know how many shit bag saxo's,106's corsa'a with chavs nailing them about. The police im sure just stereotype all modified cars as chavs up to no good. But he sounds like he was being un-reasonable... i dont likes un-reasonable people. ghey. Mitch
  13. Id love to have the money to do somthing like that. respect! Mitch
  14. Done it. For people doing this, you must jack the car up, get a long extension and un-do it from beneath the car. To get the old bush out, saw down to the metal bushing, them hammer and punch the outer metal ring inward untill its all fecked and comes out. Be carefull to not hit the Metal Mount as its (Aluminium?)cast so wont take a beating (Could crack/snap) Now to do gearbox... Mitch
  15. Im replacing the front engine mount with a powerflex and im unsure on how to get it off. Ive un-done the bolt holding the mount to the car, ive also un-done the two ontop of the mount holding it to the engine.. There seems to be a stud with a nut on it on the other side... do i remove this? if so how? Helpy help Mitch
  16. Wow, id love to do that. How much is it costing you? Mitch
  17. Awsome bud, just a question, do the GT seats hold you in? Oh and get that mani on! Mitch
  18. Id get them on ebay 126pounds for all four Mitch
  19. Ive had both... T1-s are as good as parada spec 2's on the wet.... shit. how ever good in the dry (i rate paradas better in the dry,side walls are soft though) T1-r's are far better in the wet. Mitch
  20. The filter il be buying i will use when i 4efte it so i want somthing decent. Im going to go for the apexi open filter and try get some cold air pipes routed to it. Mitch
  21. Update Manifold; Finally got around to fitting the manifold and was very suprised with the amount of shit in the old mani and inlet ports in the head... cleaned them up. Suprisingly didnt take as long as i thought, although i did have to get under the car to undo the brae holding the the old inlet mani. Here it is fitted; Note:that isnt a paint run,its bit of weld. The bay, all i need is a filter etc My opinions on the mani are that before my car would reach full power at around 3-4k and then loose it at 5800, but now it hits full power at the same time and pulls all the way to t
  22. Thats brilliant, it does feel alot smoother, but didnt know whether i was imagining it. ste91: You know the distributer cap? well that is mounted on a plate which has two 12mm bolts going into the side of the head. loosen them off so you can nudge it either way (the bolts may be seized from heat). Once loose get a feel for it rotating it backward and forward (1-2 degrees) rotate toward the front of the car and it will stall or struggle, rotate it back and the revs should slightly pick up(on tick over), this is the way you want to adjust it. Also, mark the plate the dizzy cap is on before you
×
×
  • Create New...