Gav Missen

10 hours ago, RobSR said:

Nice progress so far.

The black box you mentioned in your pics above is for the indigo dials you have. 
 

Josh has given you good advice on the engine build. 
 

Sam, can you show the evidence of ‘alot of engines over 300 cracking caps’? I’ve seen one and have run 460bhp on stock caps without issue. 
Gav, for your build you won’t need billet caps.

Ah cheers bud it was leading up in to that area! I think that’s what I am going to do source all the parts then get my local engine builder to do the rest is it work getting the crank ground .25 with the overaized bearings or just leave it as is if all is ok? 
mom thanks for the caps info I’ve only seen a handful of people use them I guess it’s more of a if you can afford the extra it always helps

1 minute ago, Sam44 said:

You tube how to are the best option.  Running an external waste gate on a electronic boost control for the best results again use good equipment for reliability and power. The cheap eBay equipment does not last. 

Was going to run a EWG I have a greddy profec boost controller would that be suitable?

6 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Yep either of these turbos are a better road option you can build your own tdo4l hyb. get a 13t billet 7+7 compressor wheel and a 11blade exhaust turbine. You will have to use a super back seal kit £30 and get it balanced £50 to  £100. Then port out the exhaust housing from the manifold mount down to the exhaust turbine shell.

(You can get up to a 20t billet compressor wheel and housing but after looking a Dyno graphs the spool lost and back pressure are not worth going any bigger than a 17t compressor but again because of the compressor size and weight difference it affect spool up)

The 7+7 13t is a great option only slightly heavier but alot more air flowed against the standard 6+6 cast wheel. 

Thanks Sam that’s a great help! Is there a thread or anything on how to do this I’m handy with mechanics but turbo rebuilds I’m not to familiar with I’ve done standard core changes etc 

So I got a little bit done after work today managed to get her jacked up on all 4 

the rear arches and coil overs are on the list to be cleaned next!

started stripping the interior out seats plastics carpet etc 

ready to clean all the inside repaint and cut the spare wheel well out to plate and fit the fuel cell on top of

does anyone know what this plug would have connected to it was on the same loom that goes to the mirror adjustment and hi lo boost switch

also this black box? Some sort of alarm system maybe?

removed some bad speaker wiring that had been twisted together 🤦🏼‍♂️

and if any of you want a laugh check out my seat support bolts I found had been fitted some people make me laugh 🤣🤦🏼‍♂️

1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

No i got to 6psi then the surge in power/spool was to much for the 4efe I was worried about bending a rod. Very agresive, and because of the late turbo spool up requires to be aggressively driven. All the things you don't want for reliability on toyota e series engine. 

The c160 box does suit the bigger turbo better on the roads. 

For good quarter miles times you want no less than a td05 20g hyb I was reading animal GT used a td06 on noss to get his times. Around 11sec

 

 

 

Oh jheez not good so you reckon a td04 hybrid or vf turbo something along them lines? 

Just got home from work so will try and get a few bits done tonight might move on to the interior removing some bits to fit new fuel cell electric pas etc

5 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Great advice.

I've tried both the tdo5 16g and tdo5 20g on mine and yeh the 16g comes in late and is quite a hand full when it does and the 20g does not even achieve ful! Spoo!. 

Td also do a crank cap set I've seen and are being told about alot of 4e engines cracking these around 300hp 

 

What power did you make with the 16g bud any videos of it? Are you on about the billet end caps they do?

5 hours ago, wakeabby14 said:

Good looking build mate! If i was you i would avoid a TD05 it will be quite laggy unless you get a decent amount of headwork done, You would be better off getting a TD04 Hybrid and getting a good manifold kit from the guys at WEPR (wickedEP racing).  You dont want to run too big power on an emanage ecu as its piggy back and you have less control over the management. You would be more than happy with the car running around 300-340bhp.  Also when you start getting closer to the 350ish bhp range you start needing better ignition systems like Coil on plug which can only be ran by standalone management systems generally due to spark blow out. 

With the engine building side of things I would find a local engine builders to look at your block and crack condition etc then decide what bits to buy from there to forge it and assemble it your self, As TD will probably take a long time to build your engine as a few people have been waiting a while i've heard for their engines to come back they dont have a massive amount of guys there working so its not like turnover is super quick.  

If i was you and your builders say the block and crank are in good condition i would buy the following.

74.5mm Wossner pistons 8:0.1 (0.5mm over bore)
Forged connecting rods (your choice on brand you can go for.. SCAT, PEC, MAXSPEEDING depends on budget and goals etc)
ACL Full engine Bearing set
COMETIC MLS headgasket (thickness dependent on engine builders recommendation) 
ARP Crank bolts/studs
ARP Headbolts
New water pump
New oil pump
Full OEM toyota seal set 

I would also get your rocker cover modified to support AN10 fittings to support better engine breathing to relieve crank case pressure at higher boost, At least 430CC injectors (or if you can afford them ID1050x injectors probs best you can get on the market) then just supporting mods like decent clutch, good oil etc. 

Let us know how you get on! 
 

Thanks bud I do have a engine builder nearby who has a good reputation not sure if he’s worked on many fte engines but worth a go! Will a td04 hybrid be good for 300-340 then? 
yes mate definitely planning on getting the rocker modified etc 

cheers for your help will look in to parts soon

41 minutes ago, Socks said:

Emissions Wise the grey area is on this flowchart from the Gov. GT Turbos can get away with it because they are all pre 1995. They have NO UK Equivalent.
So you have to run a Pre-CAT Test. Which you'll pass easy peasey. Glanza's though, your fucked. Go buy your tester a beer.

As for the other danger. If the exhaust/screwed was level with the bonnet surface you might get away with it, if it sticks out though, id say your fucked, as its sharp/hot/dangerous to people. Comes down to the Police Officers choice imo, they wouldn't be happy with it I guarantee it!

Thanks for the reply I know it goes down to tester etc he said something about if I use the gt engine I have and get it papered as having that in I’d skip then full car test due to year but yeah depends what Thepolice officer is feeling like 🤣

31 minutes ago, Socks said:

Amazing how much time can be spent just cleaning properly.

This needed a GOOD clean though by the looks of it, keep us posted!

This is true spent a good few hours on the engine alone and still needs more time on it plus still have the gearbox starter alternator etc to do plus all the bay then I can start with the building 🙄

6 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Its definitely a good question I'll look into the mot tester manual now.give me 15min

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles

From what I can see it's just sharp edges and emissions so cat related. But I've read alot of info on here about imports and emissions 

That’s  all I could find too if I’m honest as long as it’s not petruding outside a surface to far I don’t see the problem, granted it would be fairly loud on boost but the turbo would keep it quiet on idle etc 

5 hours ago, BurtEP82 said:

Cracking start to your build! The meisters came out like new from the looks of it, top job. What LSD do you have in the box? 

Cheers bud! I was impressed how they can put to be honest! As a far as I’ve been told just a factory lsd I found some damage to the box yesterday thought, looks a piece of the case snapped off around the mount area and someone tapped it back on and put a load of gunk around it!👎🏽 Once I’ve cleaned it all off I’ll get it welded up properly 

6 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Is this the facelift I hear people mention. Yours looks different around the bottom edges

You don't see many like this. 

Pretty sure it is mate I like it just a shame someone cut it before me 👎🏽 Wouldn’t mine a live sports bumper and spoiler though 

12 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Great start and that number plate is class. 

What front bumper is this. 

Messy start but getting somewhere! 
pretty sure it’s just a 98spec bumper that’s been cut bud

I’ve seen this setup just wondering the legalities of it on the road will be used the odd day of the month as will be mostly used on track/drag cheers Gav

Hi all and welcome to my build thread!

This is my 98spec Glanza 

I have owned the car for a year and a bit and now it’s time for a forged build! 
the shell itself is a very clean example and fairly stock in my eyes, rough spec as follows:

*Emanage blue ECU with Glanza harness and 3 bar map sensor ready to plug straight in and be mapped

*Greddy profec boost controller all plumbed in HI/LO setting fully adjustable

*Full stainless Japspeed exhaust inc decat 

*Toyosports stainless manifold has been welded

*hks adjustable actuator 

*Big FMIC in black with all hardpiping and hot pipe

*Walbro fuel pump

*RRFPR 

*LSD gearbox no crunches or whines

*VGC meister R coil overs with fully adjustable top mounts 

*15” super lightweight jap wheels

*new lambda sensor

*brakes were all replaced not to long ago 

*2x new bottom ball joints last week

*new rocker cover and plug hole gaskets last week as was weeping

Inside 🇯🇵 

*Triple gauge A pillar pod with 3 gauges

*Plasma glow dials

*OMP deepdish steering wheel

*Subaru wrx sti front seats (rear is stripped but still have the seats to put back in if needed)

*Glanza front strut brace 

*rear 3 point strut brace with all plastics

*Glanza floor mats

Being a Glanza I had a few little issues along the way..

the toyo mani snapped in half literally...
I did get the flange welded back on but now that’s ready for the bin

it acquired an oil leak from the back of the engine which I couldn’t find and made a mess of everything as it was finding it’s way on to the alternator belt I think it was a mixture of little leaks to be honest 

anyone without boring anyone too much I’ve started stripping it down 
I took the coil overs off and gave them a clean and they came up surprisingly well here’s some before and afters 
 

I got the engine out and on the stand and as you can see it really needed a clean 

I then started to remove some of the paint off the block and head it had 3 layers of different colours on it! 

I then stripped it down to have a check on the valves and pistons crank etc

luckily I have a spare gt turbo engine so can choose the best crank block head etc from each one 

the engine bay was covered in oil so I moved on to that with the degreaser it came up ok but still needs some more cleaning done

this is where I am at at the moment just trying to find somewhere to build my forged block and do my head etc had quotes from TD and futuremotorsport if anyone has had any experience with them be great to hear or anywhere else you can recommend! 
The thread will go on for a while as I only have the odd day off work but will try to keep this updated, I will be looking for 300-350bhp I’m thinking td05 what do you think? 
 

cheers Gav

Hi all,

recently taken my 98 spec off the road as going to do a forged build etc will start a build thread soon...

im looking for options of somewhere to get it forged I’ve had close prices from TD and Futuremotorsport

I would do the build myself but after the price of parts machine work etc it’s just easier to get someone to do it...

Just wondering if anyone’s had any experience with them or anywhere else they would recommend 

cheers Gav