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Posts posted by glanzagee
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No tq adjustments in the map if anything I need more tq but the gearboxes tend too disagree with me need a gearbox every outing and I'm not in the mood too get classed as DNF. 4 boxes so far and all with the same symptoms 3rd gear gears clean off
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c52
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Tbh 6/5 was good for fast road use would suck up a lot of the holes/bumps &yumps but for a circuit or smooth road going round bends I had issues with the inner rear wheel cocking up at least 8inchs and the wheel diagonally too the inner dive in too much heat build up and loss of traction etc etc
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6kg front 5 kg rear
I'm on 8kg front 7kg rear and still not happy this is circuit and hillclimb use and using Pirelli rx7 Tyres similar too what you use phil
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Pm'd you glanzagee.
Redz11 I know they're not cheap but it's a SARD kit it will be going on. Would like to avoid rhdjapan prices though
i read the p.m just let me know when your ready
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Price is £250 it's new and I don't do PayPal pickup only north London
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23c min 30c max for one of thoses files i also live in the mediterranean we see temps of 40c plus summers and winters of 20c
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what you got the fan cutting in at 80 odd? you could try getting it to cut in a bit early sitting at 90 at wot is ok but could be better
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makes me wonder about all these road cars with thoses civic rads !
when you putting a oil cooler in may just drop your water temp a few more c
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what was the temps on the old rad 95-110c ?
what do you see know 85c max ?
honda s2000 rad ?
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I have had 3 5efte engines, with 250-412 hp. And know a few who run them too. Never had a fault on bearing.
You dont need upgrade pump, you need to run the right oil, and make sure clearence is right in bearings.
Your on point but there's other things that can be done too
Above is based on
5efhe
50wt oil
Rev limited to 8300rpm
Modifications too oil gallery's !!!
None to pump or pressure relief valve
Hot pressure are no lower than 4 bar even at idle
Cold pressure at idle 7bar
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Hey everyone,
I've noticed a massively common trend going on throuought the starlet community. The fatal bottom end rattle. I've seen numerous posts about big end shells failing, picking up and general buggery.
My question is surely there should be a way to combat this? I know of a few people "upping the oil pressure" by placing a thicker or another washer in the oil pressure regulating valve. Does this actually work or is it just moving the problem elsewhere? Has any one ever thought of modifying the pulley on the pump? Even one less tooth will provide more flow at tick over and at high rpm? I know many people running 300+ bhp on standard toyota pumps but when oil coolers etc are added into the equation surely the standard pump is punching well above its weight?
Thoughts anyone?
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""""" I'm sure he will get a shock at what's involved in putting them in ? """"" your words
makes it sound like its a hard thing to do ??? dont think so / if you do you should not go anywhere near a engine
yady yada we could go on and on this is my last reply to this
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p.s dont forget too get the angle grinder out for the one stud thats 14mm longer
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All good saying put studs in but I'm sure he will get a shock at what's involved in putting them in ?
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Yup Chris said this also. Will be looking at it soon.
Phil
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im not a fan of bolts as they put side stress on the bolts
studs don have this isseu
m10x 1.25 arp yes
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looking good on your last outting any improments since my last comment ?
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I love the way you just creep out the woodwork every once in a while and tease us with this beast lol
Never left just keep quite and watch there's really not much too talk about on the forum....
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Any better pics of above??
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/4625-show-us-your-engine-bay/page-3
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WANTED: High lift cams
in Wanted
Posted
http://tighecams.com.au/
http://www.newman-cams.com/
just out of intrest what your intentions of use
pls pls pls dont say just so it sounds good at idle