Glanza_Ragger

After front and rear dampers (can be leaking, rusted, seized, etc) and 4 of the cheapest cheap wheels so i can keep my shell rolling.

As close to Kent as possible please, can collect. Thanks

What interior plastics have you got left bud?

As the title says, Looking for an ABS delete braided line kit or ukspec lines and valve assy.

Thanks

Anyone? May be interested in zep depending on price.

Bump, still looking

As per title, after a cruise bonnet, not bothered if its a frp copy aslong as its in very good condition. Any colour.

Thanks.

That on the ecu is a hks fcd. Will be wired into the live, ground and map sensor to intercept/modify the signal. Bottom picture is a fse fuel pressure regulator.

Guessing at somepoint someone has used the fcd to remove fuelcut and up the boost, using the regulator to fuel enough. If you dont need the fcd remove it or turn it to setting 12 which is off. Or get it on A dyno to see if the engines fuelling correctly as the fcds lean it out

use wet and dry and go through the grades then finish it with a machine polish using g3. They come up brand new.

If the heads going to be off for a few months then i would refresh the entire head mate, make the most of it.

Just compare the 2 wiring diagrams and that will tell you

Plug the solenoid straight into the battery with live & ground, does it click?

If there the ones i think they are, there shorter than the stock injectors.Usable but you need to use spacers on fuel rail

Had that issue with mine. At first i thought it was a faulty solenoid even though it was opening and closing correctly when i tested it, i purchased a new solenoid. Still had the same problem, turned out it was the actual unit itself which was faulty. Check the solenoid clicks open / closed with a direct live & earth from the battery, then check basics like vacuuk leaks from the unit and solenoid, and all other vacuums etc. I had to bin mine though, ended up going with the aem after my greddy and hks going wrong.

There can be a huge difference in quality and accuracy between different gauge companys. I personally use aem only. Extremely accurate gauges.

Other people will have there own preferance to make. With gauges, you get what you pay for, in terms of gauge build quality and sensor quality.

Well i cant speak from personal experience as i map mine. But a few people i know swear by them. But like i said, i have never used them. Best to find some one with plenty of experience mapping our engines for best results

I know the evo 7-9's use low impedance injectors. And all the subarus i know of use side feed injectors and we use top feed.

I do agree with the multi hole pintle being better than the single hole pintle injectors. Atomize the fuel much nicer , so you end up with a much smoother idle and a nicer tip in on acceleration, where as the old single hole injectors usually need a bit of fuel pulling on the tip in part of the map

Did you put the service bolt in before you removed the cams? If not, you will need to re-tension the cam before refitting or else it will rattle a goodun

Id definately replace all the seals you can whilst engine is out. Much easier. Crank seals, overhaul the head with all new seals etc. Just because its better to do it now rather than struggle with it in the chassis

Hayes Dynotech in Erith. Done a fair few i know of.

Looks like stem seals are gone, oil seeping down the valve.

Aem truboost which is a gauge aswell. And timer yeah, although you dont need a timer if you let it cool down anyway.

Yes

Depends if yours are nackered. Or if you want to up the rev limit

I run oil temp, oil pressure, wideband and boost. There the main ones you need to keep an eye on

Either

a ) you have a sld wired in somewhere,

b ) the speed limiter can sometimes be a bit slow to notice you have gone past the limit, usually the case when you do a top speed pull on a dyno, due to light load on rollers or just where there doing a slow pull, or,

c ) you didnt actually reach the speed limiter, things can be a little off,

maybe you have an aftermarket ecu with the emanage wired in, such as a jam with the emb piggybacked into it.