dac69er

i have a 2.5" system. it has one silencer at the rear. all made of dairy grade stainless steel other than the flexi and the rear box. sounds nice and only knocks if you hit a massive bump in the road. ground clearance is fine too. took me an age to fabricate though! cost me less than £100 in parts to make as i got all the steel from work ;)

my coilovers are as low as they go without modding anything. they are the 4wd specific miesters with one of the locking rings removed to get them as low as possible i dont have a latest pic, will try and get one tomorrow or something when its light. its not that low tbh, but low enough for me! at a guess probably have about half inch of gap between the tire and the top of the arch on 195/55/15 tires. i also found it was the same on my ep82. lowering it didnt put the back out of alignment by much at all ????

my ep85 viscous coupling was knackered when i got it. it went the opposite way to the way weejohn explained. some of the fluid leaked out so it needed more force to turn it. resulting in the split to the rear being even lower than as standard. with the coupling replaced it made a noticeable difference to the power sent to the rear wheels

im going to fit a modded bar when i get round to it, but just saying that even though mine is lowered to the max on coilovers on the back it hasnt moved it over any noticeable amount. due to this its not the top of my list

mine is lowered on coilovers and it hasnt put the rear alignment out anything worth talking about. nothing i can see anyway. and i put a short shifter in and it fitted fine. there arent really all that many differences between the fwd and 4wd versions

any room for my raggedy ep85? would like to stick her on the stand on sunday!

will set you back a cool £400 and you can only get the ep95 one which is a bit different

first thing to try as it is cheap is to replace the oil sender. the old one may be playing up. if it still does it then it would be worth checking the oil pressure relief valve next to make sure it isnt jammed open or something silly. failing that your oil pump could be on its last legs or your bottom end is very worn. if it is anymore than the sender then i would replace the bottom end bearings while the sump is off if there isnt already damage to the crank.

if you are going that far, then just seam weld it and weld in the cage. a c pillar brace will make next to no different then. it doesnt make any noticeable difference anyway tbh

what sort of rebuild you doing? standard rebuild or forged? full rebuild or basically refreshing the engine? i would first start off with a genuine full gasket set. depending on your spec an uprated head gasket, if not the genuine gasket set has a headgasket. then a full set of acl bearings. other than that the rest of the parts like piston rods etc is entirely up to what you want out of the engine.

without seeing it, sounds like you have a problem with the lacquer on the door. probably had a spray job in the past. only way to really cure this if it is the problem is to get i rubbed back and blown over again.

that interior is pootastic glad you rolling with a turbo look with a white one. dont want another out there looking like mine!

yus it is. just sold a shell exactly the same colour

i have done the same. socket set extension. as i have 4 starlets i thought i would invest in the proper tool dont cost much

Hi, how much for a couple of stickers in this style in a grey colour as per the pic? looking for 2, six inches long. they are for the outside of a car window thanks