Marc0

New pic.

Indeed. Speedvision aftermarket FTE cams, Corolla E11/Glanza S inlet manifold, with some fueling mods (getting the A/F correct) and some timing adjustments. Also a good exhaust would help. Some slighty compression (TRD headgasket).

That Glanza S manifold gave my 75 pk 4E-FE an extra 12 pk without any other engine mods. It did ran a bit leaner (had it on a dyno here in Holland a long while ago). The guy said it had more potential

Gearbox from a 4E-FE fits on the 4E-FTE. Clutch (according to the guy that did my engine swap) said that I needed an FTE fywheel, or my TRD FTE clutch wouldn't fit.

For cams, use the aftermarket FTE cams that the company Speedvision (USA) delivers for the FTE. Should give some nice result with some extra fueling mods in a 4E-FE

The 4E-FTE has around 3.0/3.2 litres of oil in the engine. Almost 4 litres (like Russleh) is a bit too much, not good for the engine:)

Gearbox oil (LSD, non LSD?) is a matter of filling on the front side hole (standing in front of the car). When it comes pooring out, there enough oil in the gearbox. I was told do to this method by a Toyota mechanic:)

A company in Australia sells (or used to) headers /manifold for the EP91 4E-FE. Pacesetter or something like that was the company called

Would a 5E-FE OBX manifold fit a 4E-FE head?

Little topic bump but..

www.toyodiy.com

Works fine

Well, the problem solved it self recently. Idle was okay, the smell from the exhaust was much better. In addition, I sold the car yesterday..

Marco.

Well, back again here..

Checked the fuel pressure regulator, seemed fine, no cracks or whatever in the vac pipe I saw.

Im thinking it has something to do with my throttlebody. What can have a influence on the Co level so that the car runs too rich?

Idle is still not as it is supposed to be sometimes. Lambda sensor is oke, checked that at a local MOT garage...

fuel pressure regulator is stock, but I'll check it tomorrow if the vaccuum pipe leaks

It did have high idling yeah, turned the idle down a bit a while ago, but it's still not perfect atm.

When it idles at 1050 rpm (warm engine), and I give it a short rev, it will drop to 950 rpm. After driving with the car and stopping for a traffic light it will idle at 1050 rpmagain. Give it a little rev when standing still it usually drops to around 950 rpm, but when I move the car and stop for another traffic light..same story again..

Anyone else have an idea what can cause a stock 4E-FTE to run too rich on fuel?

- Lambda sensor

- TPS

- ..?

Car is running too rich, and I'm a still a bit confused what can be wrong with it..

Here's my *I secretly don't wanna look like Michael M. pic* ;)

LOOOOLLL

Don't know the guy, famous English dude or?

Anyway, I can guarantee you guys the rest of me does NOT look like Michael

Dutch input in this thread (I'm the one on the photo).

2 badassracer69: I've done that last friday, Idle rpm is okay now.

2 Asad_EP5DR: We have cleaned the TB internally with some magic stuff. Also cleande where the throttle calble is attached to and that comes back nicely now. Lambda is something I haven't checked, might be that one. There were no fault codes yesterday but that doesn't mean lambda is okay

The coolant temp (the green thing near the thermostat) gave a certain reading. I put a spare coolant temp (from a 2E-E engine) in the rad opening and after some while measured both. One was 0,34, other 0,38 so that should seem okay (?)

I'm a bit confused and worried what else might cause the overfuelling. I can smell the fuel when I remove the oil filler cap to check the inside of the cap.

Hi guys,

I am in need for some help concerning my 4E-FTE.

My first problem was my high idle problem as described here:

First problem:

It started when me and a friend changed the TMIC setup for a FMIC setup. That did not fit due to some installation problems, and I installed the old completely original TMIC setup.

Since then, the car idles around 1250 rpm where it did around 900 rpm before.

Things I have tried to find the problem:

I checked for vac leaks. (I used brake cleaner to spray on the engine bay and parts to look if the sound of the engine changed. I also de-installed and put back the tmic setup and looked at cracks in the rubber and clamps. I also looked at the other small hoses, but could not find anything that had cracks in it or did not seal properly.

Cold start the engine does 1750 rpm. Then it slowly after a while drops to 1500, 1250 where it stays. Even when the engine temp gets half way as it allways does, the idle does not drop. When I touch the pedal it rises and sometimes drops a tiny bit under 1250.

But it also happened, when I turned the engine off and started it back on, it suddenly did 1050 rpm! Very strange..

When I took it after a small drive, and let it stop again to stand still it did not went back to 1050 rpm..

I also removed the EFI fuse to erase any form of fault codes or whatever, this did not make any form of difference.

What could be causing this? I personally don't think it's the vac leak, I checked it and it boosts fine, boost doesn't come on later or anything like that..

Could it be the coolant sensor? Or any other sensor? Or do I need to clean the TPS and stuff?

Thanks,

Marco

Second problem after turning down the idle (or perhaps the second problem was allready present)

Today I also checked the diagnostics, no errors found. The car in current condition will not pass Dutch MOT with the emission it has .

With stock 4E-FE catalyst it passed the MOT last november without any trouble.

I tested the emission Friday with a friend of mine and I had too much Co. The test also said the car was running too rich. What can be the cause of this problem? I've adjusted the idle back to around 1000 rpm with the screw that sits on top the intake near the TPS (under that little rubber thingy). Did that screw up my emission?

Any help would be appreciated

If WD40 does not help, buy some Coca-Cola. That stuff also works as an WD40(not a joke).

A company in Australia manufactures 4E-FE aftermarket! headers for the Starlet EP91 if I am not mistaken. Company is called Pace setter (something with Pace). Found out that it would cost me about 400+ euros to buy and get it here..

m_radt@hotmail.com

Yeah that's another option... but something i don't really wanna have to do

Co² will probably be around 0,001 / 0,002 with FTE/FE catalyst in the exhaust line. That seems to be the number I got when I did a test, plus some other people got the same result. That was at 3000 RPM I think.

My 4E-FTE is cleaner with emissions then my old 4E-FE

by the way, isn't there a local Toyota dealer that you can e-mail to?

Thanks guys. There are a few more Corolla FTE's around the world. Here in Holland I only know of one extra. The benefit for me is extra space (I'm quite big). Other benefit is more room/space under the bonnet.

My goal is to get around 160+ whp on the wheels after the end of the summer. I'll get in on the dyno then, after all the mods are installed/fitted

When I get some new pictures or small movies I'll put them on the forum:)

Ok mate, if you can post up a pic off the oil plug we can see if its normal

I've heard that a 10% difference between any of the cilinders is bad. Also when they are obviously very low.

I had a compression test done in february. Mij results (1991 4E-FTE) were 11,5 bar on all cilinders.

Hi guys,

I don't remember making any 'New Member' topic from myself so here's one after some time. Apologies for the delay

As mentioned I live in Holland. I drive a greyish/silver Corolla ('97) that had an EP82 4E-FTE swapped in. The main word that comes to mind with this project is sleeper. I am not planning to change the exterior of the car, most of the work will be done on the inside of the car . I'm still running the original 4E-FE gearbox, stock FTE flywheel but with a new TRD clutch set. Also put some Magnecor leads on it because the old ones are about 18 years old lol.

Here's are some pictures I've taken since last August when the FTE was swapped

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/1989/image017y.jpg

(Is NOT me on that picture, I'm a bit taller/younger/more goodlooking:p)

http://img187.imageshack.us/content.php?pa.../img4039vi3.jpg

I damaged one of the wheel things, so I took all four of the steel rims. Looks better I think without those things on it

http://img99.imageshack.us/content.php?pag...004smallbe3.jpg

You can see the custom downpipe here (original FTE downpipe did not fit). This photo was one of the first after the swap

I also bought some stuff to increase the performance of the car, but are not yet installed.

- Blitz Access ECU

- HKS uprated actuator

- FMIC (getting that stuff sorted so I can fit it permanently)

Further more, offcourse I'm looking for an decent/reliable/durable manifold, still haven't decided what to choose..

Also, only the first section of the exhaust is 2,5". From the original 4E-FE catalyst -> backbox is still original (and very small lol). Still have to get that finished this summer

Other future plans maybe include a hybrid turbo. Not decided what to choose, heard something about a CT9/TD04 hybrid coming up in a few months?

Anyway, that's about it for now. Probably forgot half of the stuff I was planning to show/tell but that will be added later

Cheers,

Marco

Agree with KevinK. The point is, your putting pressure on the wrong side of the turbo. Those blades are designed so that they spin faster when exhaust fumes go thru(e?) it from one specific direction!

By not having a BOV you're creating a pressure that pushes the blades to decrease in speed.

Two things might happen (imo) if you get unlucky.

1. The shaft breaks due to the fact that the inlet side wants to go faster, where the exhaust side rapidly decreases in speed. That causes stress on the sheft.

For example: Try it with a cardboard piece. One side you rotate clockwise, the other side you rotate counter-clockwise. Result: it bends. That same force applies with the shaft, only that is much stronger.

2. The blades can become damaged or break when the metal can't take it anymore. Metal becomes weaker after long and strong amounts of stress on it.

Bottom line: Driving without any form of dumpvalve/BOV recudes the durability of your turbo.

Just my humble opinion of what I've read. Also not to happy with driving with no airfilter on the turbo.

I've had Castrol Magnatec (semi-synthetic, 10w40) / Kroon Emperol (semi-synthetic, 10w40). Currently I am using a fully synthetic 5w30 from the local Toyota dealer. It runs smoother on that oil, despite the fact some people in Holland say it should be too thin.