Marc0

New pic.

Indeed. Speedvision aftermarket FTE cams, Corolla E11/Glanza S inlet manifold, with some fueling mods (getting the A/F correct) and some timing adjustments. Also a good exhaust would help. Some slighty compression (TRD headgasket). That Glanza S manifold gave my 75 pk 4E-FE an extra 12 pk without any other engine mods. It did ran a bit leaner (had it on a dyno here in Holland a long while ago). The guy said it had more potential

Gearbox from a 4E-FE fits on the 4E-FTE. Clutch (according to the guy that did my engine swap) said that I needed an FTE fywheel, or my TRD FTE clutch wouldn't fit.

For cams, use the aftermarket FTE cams that the company Speedvision (USA) delivers for the FTE. Should give some nice result with some extra fueling mods in a 4E-FE

The 4E-FTE has around 3.0/3.2 litres of oil in the engine. Almost 4 litres (like Russleh) is a bit too much, not good for the engine:) Gearbox oil (LSD, non LSD?) is a matter of filling on the front side hole (standing in front of the car). When it comes pooring out, there enough oil in the gearbox. I was told do to this method by a Toyota mechanic:)

A company in Australia sells (or used to) headers /manifold for the EP91 4E-FE. Pacesetter or something like that was the company called Would a 5E-FE OBX manifold fit a 4E-FE head?

Little topic bump but.. www.toyodiy.com Works fine

Well, the problem solved it self recently. Idle was okay, the smell from the exhaust was much better. In addition, I sold the car yesterday.. Marco.

Well, back again here.. Checked the fuel pressure regulator, seemed fine, no cracks or whatever in the vac pipe I saw. Im thinking it has something to do with my throttlebody. What can have a influence on the Co level so that the car runs too rich? Idle is still not as it is supposed to be sometimes. Lambda sensor is oke, checked that at a local MOT garage...

fuel pressure regulator is stock, but I'll check it tomorrow if the vaccuum pipe leaks It did have high idling yeah, turned the idle down a bit a while ago, but it's still not perfect atm. When it idles at 1050 rpm (warm engine), and I give it a short rev, it will drop to 950 rpm. After driving with the car and stopping for a traffic light it will idle at 1050 rpmagain. Give it a little rev when standing still it usually drops to around 950 rpm, but when I move the car and stop for another traffic light..same story again..

Anyone else have an idea what can cause a stock 4E-FTE to run too rich on fuel? - Lambda sensor - TPS - ..? Car is running too rich, and I'm a still a bit confused what can be wrong with it..

Here's my *I secretly don't wanna look like Michael M. pic* ;)

LOOOOLLL Don't know the guy, famous English dude or? Anyway, I can guarantee you guys the rest of me does NOT look like Michael

Dutch input in this thread (I'm the one on the photo).

2 badassracer69: I've done that last friday, Idle rpm is okay now. 2 Asad_EP5DR: We have cleaned the TB internally with some magic stuff. Also cleande where the throttle calble is attached to and that comes back nicely now. Lambda is something I haven't checked, might be that one. There were no fault codes yesterday but that doesn't mean lambda is okay The coolant temp (the green thing near the thermostat) gave a certain reading. I put a spare coolant temp (from a 2E-E engine) in the rad opening and after some while measured both. One was 0,34, other 0,38 so that should seem okay (?) I'm a

Hi guys, I am in need for some help concerning my 4E-FTE. My first problem was my high idle problem as described here: First problem: It started when me and a friend changed the TMIC setup for a FMIC setup. That did not fit due to some installation problems, and I installed the old completely original TMIC setup. Since then, the car idles around 1250 rpm where it did around 900 rpm before. Things I have tried to find the problem: I checked for vac leaks. (I used brake cleaner to spray on the engine bay and parts to look if the sound of the engine changed. I also de-installed and

If WD40 does not help, buy some Coca-Cola. That stuff also works as an WD40(not a joke).

A company in Australia manufactures 4E-FE aftermarket! headers for the Starlet EP91 if I am not mistaken. Company is called Pace setter (something with Pace). Found out that it would cost me about 400+ euros to buy and get it here..

m_radt@hotmail.com

Co² will probably be around 0,001 / 0,002 with FTE/FE catalyst in the exhaust line. That seems to be the number I got when I did a test, plus some other people got the same result. That was at 3000 RPM I think. My 4E-FTE is cleaner with emissions then my old 4E-FE by the way, isn't there a local Toyota dealer that you can e-mail to?

Thanks guys. There are a few more Corolla FTE's around the world. Here in Holland I only know of one extra. The benefit for me is extra space (I'm quite big). Other benefit is more room/space under the bonnet. My goal is to get around 160+ whp on the wheels after the end of the summer. I'll get in on the dyno then, after all the mods are installed/fitted When I get some new pictures or small movies I'll put them on the forum:)

I've heard that a 10% difference between any of the cilinders is bad. Also when they are obviously very low. I had a compression test done in february. Mij results (1991 4E-FTE) were 11,5 bar on all cilinders.

Hi guys, I don't remember making any 'New Member' topic from myself so here's one after some time. Apologies for the delay As mentioned I live in Holland. I drive a greyish/silver Corolla ('97) that had an EP82 4E-FTE swapped in. The main word that comes to mind with this project is sleeper. I am not planning to change the exterior of the car, most of the work will be done on the inside of the car . I'm still running the original 4E-FE gearbox, stock FTE flywheel but with a new TRD clutch set. Also put some Magnecor leads on it because the old ones are about 18 years old lol. Here's are some

Agree with KevinK. The point is, your putting pressure on the wrong side of the turbo. Those blades are designed so that they spin faster when exhaust fumes go thru(e?) it from one specific direction! By not having a BOV you're creating a pressure that pushes the blades to decrease in speed. Two things might happen (imo) if you get unlucky. 1. The shaft breaks due to the fact that the inlet side wants to go faster, where the exhaust side rapidly decreases in speed. That causes stress on the sheft. For example: Try it with a cardboard piece. One side you rotate clockwise, the other side you ro

I've had Castrol Magnatec (semi-synthetic, 10w40) / Kroon Emperol (semi-synthetic, 10w40). Currently I am using a fully synthetic 5w30 from the local Toyota dealer. It runs smoother on that oil, despite the fact some people in Holland say it should be too thin.