zurgieSR

Forgot about this post but update for pressure figures..

Try turn the butterfly valve on the throttle body next time mate saves the hassle of getting into the car or getting someone else to help! I don't seem to be losing any water/coolant after long drives so im happy enough atm! Also managed to comp test mine at WOT and got 120, 120, 120, 117, I think the compressiojn is due to rise with the mileage tho...

my arms def arent long enough to be turning the throttle and turning the key at the same time lol

theres a 12mm bolt at the top of the alternator, just behind/below the dipstick and then a 14mm bolt on the bottom of the alternator (its easier to take the wheel off to get at the 14mm) Loosen them both, then pry back the alternator at the top towards the windscreen, be careful where you pry against also. Hold it there and tighten the 12mm on top which will then hold it in place so take out the pry bar and then tighten the bottom 14mm.

would say cylinder too, but try bleeding the system first.

Yeah is that the vortex type breather been mentioned??

not sure of that term, just called it the turbo filter. meant to change it every time you change your oil filter

Its guna rust anywhere you get a dollop of salt, sealed or not. I will just start a thread and take pics of it it all then blame it on you. Its on your head but ok.

That'd be your alternator belt, not timing.

I 2nd that. Your alternator belt runs from the crank pulley to the alternator just below and to the left of the dipstick. Its easily adjusted too, think its a 14mm on the bottom and a 12 on the top. just loosen the bottom one a few turns then the top one too. Try and pry the top of the alternator back towards the windscreen but be careful where you are prying. hold it there and tighten the 12mm at the top at the same time, then the bottom 14mm. Its squealing when you put your lights and other things on as your putting extra 'load' on the alternator. It has to work harder to keep it all charged. No probs

beach is a no go for me. I like my rust free car too much.

I bought mine cheap at the start of the year, an e46 320d, real cheap as the chap thought it needed a fuel pump. all it needed was a relay that cost 4 quid from bmw. be sure and have a look below the engine cover if possible, it hides quite a bit of piping and chaps tend to re-route pipes past the egr valves and what not. Also ask him if the turbos filter has been changed, and if not, it, along with removing the swirl flaps is an immediate must if you purchase. neither are costly.

Just had a gander in below the GT and found 4 KYB super special adjustable shocks looking at me, was shocked as i had thought they were stock. Anybody ever come across these or use them? Any opinions?

No vac leaks Phil and it only idles at 2k when you start it...as the temperature needle rises toward operating. temp, the idle comes down and holds around 1100, where it used to idle and i take it the ICV valve is set to,

It just weird because it drives fine if the engines slightly warm, revs hold well, then as soon as the needle hits just under half it drops big time!

Even as far as yours Chops at 250 it wobbles about there sometimes, whats actually annoying me is the timing belt scream EVERYTIME this drop happens with the lights on!

Surely someone had tht before?

You have major problems if your timing belt is squealing. Im hoping you have it confused with your power steering belt or alternator belt. Both can be tightened and should take no longer than 15 to 30mins. Would try cleaning out that valve, my old sr done that and brought the eml on it was that bad though i think the valve on a GT is different. It was gunked up really badly but worked fine after a good blast of wd40.

Whos going to sell a forged 5e with only 900 miles on it? An idiot who hasnt run it in right/built it right thats who.

If its on a gt, 3 hard hits with a hammer should be fine, but wouldnt advise on a glanza as i pressume it has abs/wheel speed sensors that can be damaged with the shock of the hard hits running through them.

Faulty alternators can also drain the battery. Just because its showing 14 odd volts, doesnt mean its providing enough amperage to charge the battery correctly. I would start but removing the alternator and taking it to be tested somewhere. Atleast if it tests ok, thats that headache out of the way.

Just sounds good. Should be available for both.

Thats why i mentioned thor...........

free beer?

just get one for a starlet without aircon. any decent motorfactors should be able to sort you with one. £8 i paid for mine last month. Alternator belt doesnt need replace as aircon doesnt run on the same belt.

70mph though theres a rumour going about that they let you off with 10% so i guess 77mph

Really appreciate that. But I can't be doing with fighting to get the EFI back on the turbo. It was a biatch to get off!!!

I'm going port the actuator I think. See if that does anything

I know what you mean by the efi pipe back on the turbo, Remove your aircon pump (throw it over your shoulder in the direction of a civic) put a fine film of wd40 around the lip on the efi and you should be able to slide it on with ease.

I was thinking something simple aswell, you might aswell keep your actuator and that for the tdo4, untill then id think about restricting the air flow somehow like downgrading your intake back to stock maybe? Im no pro but seems logical?

Get two bolts that fit the two threaded holes where the disc sits on the hub (between the wheel nut bolts) screw them in. they will screw against the hub and either crack the disc off or push it off. try screwing them in very tight and then tapping the disc with a hammer. Them holes are put there for a reason to help with removal so you dont have to swing a hammer like thor.

Why did they have the inlet off to do the cam belt?

exactly what i was thinking, i just cant get my head around it no matter how i look at it.

If it helps any mate, i fitted a headgasket last month to my gt, it didnt need it but the valve stems were hardened so i changed all the head stuff. Theres also white smoke comes out of mine on warm up but clears depending how cold it is outside this weather. itll seem like its smoking some nights there but its just the same effect if you breathe when its cold too. Not loosing any coolant or oil (i hope). Think its normal enough. Also done a compression test last week and all 4 chambers showing 155 - 160 psi. I done it myself and was too awkward to see the gauge and put the foot on the throttle so it was idle throttle position.

may be interested in one at end of the month if you still have them?

They need one days notice! any less and you loose your money and pay again.