zurgieSR

Im not sure if this is a repost but in regards to a few previous topics ive read on the same type of problem, there hasnt been much success in curing the noise completely. Alot of members seem to be hearing a tappet type noise from the engine and most measure the gaps showing no fault with the tappets. some have went on to replace injectors and what not. However, as i was clearing up today, i had my car ticking over outside to warm up abit, and just out of curiosity, i asked the old toyota master tech who was out having a smoke what he thought the noise was. Turns out, toyota had a tsb (technical service bulletin) in regards to this exact noise which involves removing the banjo bolt that connects the fuel line to the fuel rail with a fuel pulsation damper. Will look into this more in the next few days but he says you can buy them from toyota from around 20 to 30 quid. seems also that jap spec 4efe's came standard with them, but uk models didnt have them.

been looking into this tapping noise and just been told today by the old toyota master tech in work that toyota had a tsb (technical service bulletin) in regards to tappet type sound from top of engine, its the injector pulsation noise. There is a pulsation damper you can apparently buy from toyota that goes on the end of the fuel rail and replaces the banjo bolt that connects the fuel rail and feed pipe. Will look into this more over the next few days and see about purchasing one at some stage to see if it makes much difference.

well that was a shot in the dark after saying everything seemed fine. Good stuff though.

If the heaters still working fine, and theres oil everywhere, id say its just blown between an oil way and a piston. it will be holding back more noticeably up the rev range due to the low compression in the blown cylinder i would think. Its def worth trying a head gasket on it, or at very least, lifting the head off to see for def .

voltage may well be fine, doesnt mean the amperage or batterys state of health is good. A multimeter to check battery voltage will prove nothing about your batterys health, you can get 12 + volts in a wire, doesnt mean its holding the charge like a battery.

No videos at the minute, but it goes bruuuuuuummmmm

if your not talking big power, a genuine toyota one will do as good as any.200 - 220bhp + ish i would be thinking about going for a steel headgasket, athenas makes them. genuine headgasket kit from toyota will set you back around the 110 pounds mark. and then labour for fitting if you need someone else to do it. A headgasket failure isnt all doom and gloom, happens on pretty much any car. though i def wouldnt be driving it while its blown, various little demons from different scenarios will gather for a chat and decide on how to really screw your engine over. There no way really of testing the ringlands if the gaskets blown apart from removing the pistons and inspecting them. If you dont want to go to that hassel, id advise getting the head checked over and fitting the new gasket kit and see what luck you have.

Lift the head off and pray to yoda that its a blown gasket or a head issue and not piston ringlands.

Oh, and make sure you have the right grade of spark plugs in, not just that they look ok, but that they are what should be in it.

if it let out a few bangs, id say its a timming or spark issue. was the distributor cap and rotor arm set correctly? also if the batterys in the boot, i would check all wiring to and from the battery.

not necessarily. Could of been the piston rings / headgasket from the engine it was removed from. But then again, could also be stem seals. if you can look on the seat of the valve you would have a better idea. If you do go for the seals, 16 stem seals from toyota work out around 110 pounds. They also do a headgasket kit which includes the 16 stem seals for a few quid less. (go figure )

On my car when i unplug it. It drops to about 600 - 500 rpm. And when i plug it back it goes up to 750. And idles shit. I need to calibrate my tps. Im not sure why i have shit idle. Also when i put my head lights on the idle goes up to about 900rpm and idles nicely. Anyone had this problem. Sorry for stealing thread

Possibly an alternator or battery issue? it seems the lights are pulling more current than the engine can produce so it has to idle up to spin the alternator fast enough to keep up with the current draw.

pulleys should be the same size so the belt should be also.

dont know the measurments. If your getting them local, you would be best taking them out and with you to wherever your getting them. standard sr will use the same mounting bushes as glanzas and gt's. Or if you get them online, a search for glanza or gt bush's will bring them up. Powerflex are common. Are you intending to use your starlet on the road or track? the comp ones will make the car judder and vibrate a good bit more.

thermo, mine done this a few months ago. new one cured it.

higher idle when cold will speed up wear and uneven heating/warping on parts, thats common sense, it may not cause any major problems over the time of ownership but on the otherhand, it may. For the sake of sorting it out, it could save you or the next owner a whole lot of heartache.

Not sure if its a repost, but thought id post anyways. Good show.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FdFj3XK85g&feature=youtu.be

2 hours, 50 min drive, count me in chris and keep us updated please.

clean out or worst case scenario, replace your icv.

feck it, ill go to more chris.

would attend the locals for now chris being ballymena and larne, would consider others if more interest.

cheers for the uploads jay, been in dire need of a new profile pic and im shit with a camera. And once again, cheers chris for the effort.

see yall sunday chaps

no no, i know exactly what the butterfly valve is for the throttle, i just cant reach it at the same time as im turning the key to get a reading on the compression tester lol. honestly. could maybe get my big toe to flick it back though . Also, another thought about the white smoke/vapour, Have a look at your charcoal canister and make sure the pipes are connected correctly. I had a car once that smoked like that, i changed the canister and it helped it alot. Not saying thats what it is, but ya could try it.

check this also mate.

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?92366-Fan-constantly-on&highlight=aircon+bridge