tez

definatly wet wrap, easier to move around branches.

Wear gloves too as its very itchy stuff.

i got mine from rally design and used the natural wrap. which is just as good as the thermotec

not sure if the cheap shizzle on ebay is any good though.

This build is great dude!

Engine looks awesome

just wondering the easiest way really.

Previously on my GTi went in from underneath.

Im guessing on these it isnt a problem? So out the top?

Ive seen a few pictures of peoples conversions where they leave the box in position? Why do they do this? The fact of removing the shafts?

When removing shafts,theres a little clip, do you just push that on the end of the shaft and push into box?

Ps got a crane.

cheers

so 4e & the hole pointing up to the sky?

dont get the second bit about the hole dude?

On the cam pulley it has 4e in a few areas?

Or the hole on the cam pulley ponting straight up towards the sky?

Ive read a few guides,

how do you get the timing correct on a glanza ep91?

i can see from the timing guide that you have to line the bottom 10 0 (on cover)

up to the indents on crank pulley? Is this correct?

will there be a indent for the 10 (cover) on the crank pulley and a indent for 0(cover) on pulley?

Just line them up with the two numbers?

that all?

cheers

standard boost, custom 2.5 exhaust,hks relocated. & decat to be fitted soon!

by the looks of your thread your running about the same ish spec?

sounds great doesnt it? Fitted my HKS same as yours. didnt hit fuel cut though im afraid

when you port the turbo any chance of taking a before and after pic so i can see how much you took off?

im more of a OEM guy in bodywork terms, interior is too pimp, feel like austin powers but without the fluffy dice

not sure what plans to go with at the minute, currently not insured on the car due to having the daily a3

been on here for a while, after doing some good old research on "starlet glanza"

i purchased one. At first i was after one unmodified,but didnt happen

So i collected this from Ed

Needed abit of work, and bit of TLC in areas.

Im more of OEM+ guy so imo the spolier had to go!

OLD news

A new genuine wheel bearing was purchased,After getting it pressed in at a garage, it was safe to say the hub itself was fucked,(it span in the hub) Opps.

So i quickly found myself a hub Of ebay!

Arrived and bobs your uncle was sorted.

No play etc. But i still had a knocking noise when pulling away!

so i went to other side and noticed the inner nut wasnt tight, tightend up and sorted. no knocking.

A new speedo cable was fitted which was from toyota!

The CV was leaking greese and was spraying up the chassis, so a new inner cv was purchased and fitted.

After being given a set of pads, decided to fit them also, one of the 12mm nuts,wasnt 12mm, more like 11 3/4 lol tryed a few AF sizes but it was solid.

Grinder!

Wear

New bolts where also purhcased from toyota! upper and lower for both calipers!

A new fuel filter was also fitted!

Few engine modifications took place!

relocated New HKS filter to front

good old baileys chav valve fitted aswell as a rocker cover breather and some silly red hoses:)

My little custom earthing kit

Sounds very nice on boost!

Bodywork needs TLC, so i started on the little spots on bodywork, Good old dodo bits purchased.

Also purchased myself some tar remover for the annoying little black spots on bodywork!

Thanks for mattymax?on youtube

i restored the yellow haze headlights to a better condition. drivers isnt as good as passengers so needs quick re go over.!

Oh & new wheels

Ps the white bit on my bumper is abit of velcro for plate attachment!

New Oil ready to be put in!

Comments & critism welcomed

The 30mm on end?

How tight is it suppose to be???

Put a new bearing in. All ok. Literally off my drive and dunk.

Came back on drive! Jacked up. Play.

Up down left and right. So got new hub. No play. Fitted. No play. Drove again off drive.

N dunk.

Jack up. Same again.

What could this be?

The noise is then wen pulling off in reverse. Like a dunk.

Coming from wheel bearing area?

I've checked hub. 23 splines

Shaft. 23 splines.

What could this be?

Any ideas?

Play is. Left n right. Up and down.

Any pics dude?

pmd u other day dude

but will again

cheers!

did u buy it new mate?where was the hairline crack?

what would you recommend me getting dude?

dont need that hub now dude.

hello

im running blitz decat so is braced

i have a mig,arc and another rod welder so if cracks makes no difference to me.

Im after a manifold.

I dont really want to pay alot

any advise?

All sorted!

Happy days!

cheers ryan & jade

aye checked it out myself

ive got aircon removed now

so just radiator there(standard)

my hks wont fit between rad/ slam bar.

You going to leave yours at the side of rad/slam? and not infront?

Can you add me too ;) cheers

ahh just realised the the shafts on these are different to my usual ones.

So its shaft which goes into a CV joint then a spline on the end of of the abs ring end?

comprende!

Ive been told by toyota most newer glanzas are 23/30mm unless they have been changed(shafts)

surely if the hub is 23 teeth the shaft would have to be 23? to fit correctly?

so your saying

all hubs are 23 teeth

and shafts are either 30 or 23

So surely this would make this irrevently when ordering a CV as they would both fit?

i cannot get the jist of this, Maybe im having a bad day.

doesnt make sense to me

how can a 23 tooth shaft go into a 30 tooth hub? or is it 30teeth on the abs ring?

can anyone explain the difference between the 23/30 and 23/23?

what does it mean?

how you planning to fit the HKS between the grill and rad?

my red HKS doesnt fit between grill and rad:(