potge

Hello Nos nice car. It has been improved big time since the last time i saw it. Keep it up.

Nice project i wont repeat all the good things mentioned previously, but as a proper track car shouldnt be a set of semislicks dot R tires and a roll cage on the current/future equipment and most important some safety equipment?

As far as i know C150 (4efe gbox) has 6bolts. I havent seen it myself though, so better wait for a verification

Pretty simple. Undo all the vacuum pipes and the oil return pipe that go into the inlet. Undo the airbox (not completely necessary but you gain a bit more space).undo the five bolts of the inlet attached to the engine block. Undo the bracket from engine to the inlet (it wont fit to the new inlet). undo the fuel rail and the injectors. Also undo on the backside a bolt (back and down you should put the car in a jack to remove it and finally remove a ground (on the back again) and a cable that is attached with a bolt. Remember to put the ground again otherwise it wont start though the starter will operate in fact the ground wont match since you remove a 10mm nut the corolla has a 12mm but it works if tighten. You might need a longer 4mm pipe for the vacuum sensor (not sure for uk spec since you have rhd cars). also i think the lower rear bolt isnt used also. you do the others in reverse order and its ready. a bit of attention with the vacuum pipes especially some like the one on the fuel rail cause can be easy forgotten and the car will work.

I dont know if i should open a new topic anyway i have a question for those with rear arbs. How satisfied are you with the way its connected to the chassis? personally i think its a bit filmsy ? a nut and bolt dont think its quite a good idea. It definitely works but i think the mounting should be better designed U clamp? a second bracket i dont know any opinions on this ?

That was perfect on every aspect. Thanks for your time and the share of knowledge especially on the least known conversions. thanks again

Camber wise(cause toe also contributes to wear), if your tires wear more on the inside block you need less negative camber, if you wear them more on the outside (more probable) then you need more negative camber. Whatever you do you must go to a garage (cause you need camber gauge) to check your current settings and then move to your new settings according to the above. If you want perfect alignment it should be done with you (or your common weight) in drivers seat/place, but this is too much of a detail. If you seek on angles around -1.0 negative camber should be ok for typical use, if you corner a lot and hard you should move to more negative -1.5and more and i drive on highways and straights more you should act vice versa, but personaly i wouldnt go under -0.5. Anyway this things are a bit personal and depends on driving style, though more solid concerning tyre wear.

For future use, you can make some marks on your top mounts for various camber angles cause the existing marks probably wont be accurate, but even so you should check periodically your settings since potholes bumps etc distort the settings.

Evening all

I'm not impressed with the handling on my NA EP91, it currently has TRD springs on the stock SR shows. Is there any cheap way improving handling? I'm not after too much because I'm on a budget and theres a big list of things the car needs! What difference would front and rear strut braces make?

Also, the rubbers that go at the top of the springs are out of place on the front suspension, could this make a difference to the handling at all? Is it dangerous?

Ps I'm on budget tyres for now too

Thanks for any helpful replies

Your best bet for budget is:

1) rear anti roll bar (i would prefer adjustable) will really transform the car. A lot less understeer

2)new shocks designed for lowering springs such as koni, some kybs (that might be discontinued)

3)camber bolts+better alignment to give some negative camber as the oem settings are awful

These according to my opinion have the best value for money. 1+2 are almost equal to me since stock shocks aint good and soon will need replacement (to be honest get rid of them asap) but if you plan one coilovers you can wait a bit. Alignment can help the car improve turn in and get some grip and better feeling, but can also worsen. However a bit more negative camber -1 -1.5 will be really good without major drawbacks. Toyota has camber bolts that can reach up to -2.0(or more depending on other stuff also) camber which is more than enough for street use. Concerning strut braces help but their effect cant be compared with the above so deal with them later Cheers

as mentioned before get new softer springs for your coilovers.

Does anyone know if starlet NA brake pads are the same with the ep82gt/glanza brake pads? (Except for StarlettoJoz cause we have discussed it)

i might being misunderstood just to clarify i had a small chit chat with starletto before he made any changes and suddenly i see this. So since everybody said good words (good guys) i played the role of the bad guy. The best i can say is that starletto concerning suspension has the most effective per money solutions period

Wow. The car is a beauty (ok the wheels as everybody said dont pretty match but aint bad either just not jap). Concerning the engine i believe your money were spend smart very smart perhaps a 6speed gearbox but the engine i dont think can be upgraded more (ok with money bins for a little gain dont bother). Now for the suspension setup (which is my favourite part) i wont say anything about the parts installed there is no need. however i am surprised that there is no anti lift (i am not 100% sure i read quite fast the pages) and no rear sway bar for this i am sure. of course i understood that most of the products were offers you couldnt resist so there is an explanation, although with what i ve seen i wouldnt be surprised if i see an independent rear suspension or a back differential:D. Also uprgrade your brakes despite i am sure you dont brake much now. Finally its time to face the truth i am dissapointed with you. I was expecting to see a four point front lower arm control bar, a front carbing three point strut brace a three point rear strut brace jam, toyota oem and a miracle cross bar instead of the c pillar but ok you are forgiven.

i love d2's mmmm that colour is fu*kin nice!

also mate coilovers dont really help handling on bumpy road as it makes the car skip.

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I believe are making a slight mistake coilovers can be adjusted both in height and bump rebound so probably on bumpy rods if you add more height and soften it it will handle even better.(ok if you have coilovers with 15kg/mm it wont happen but most coilovers spring rates are near the lowering springs spring rates)

Spring rates as Enzo said are important but to be honest i believe that most companies-correct me if wrong- (at least from what i have seen) produce one spring and most are similar in spring rates so doesnt need to worry (much) about it(one more time coilovers are excluded). However yes they are extremely important. Just an interesting bit of information i learned from a discussion with a friend the NEW H&Rs (dont know exact year certainly after 2003) are RED and softer than the old that were BLACK.

@Enzo no i dont. i just dont think its something special but i may upload some photos. aaa and check your pm

I suppose you are running Bridgestone Potenza RE720 huh? If so i am surprised that you say they are soft as they are considered among the hardest at this dimension. Its also weird their duration do you spin them often? Anyway i believe you have a gt so perhaps 195/45 or 50 at 15icnhes would be better but it would be best to check your setup as the guys said first

They will probably be great and handle even better. However i dont know if the price is good if you search it a bit more i have bought them 480euros and they sell them 543+carriage as i see if you search a little bit more perhaps you will find them cheaper i dont believe here in greece to have them cheaper.

My opinion cause if you just change springs your shocks will soon fail i would go for koni yellow adjustables with H&R or eibach springs 3.5cm lowering both. I am currently running koni and H&R and i believe its a very good combination however the price should around 600euros a little bit over your budget however it should be one of the best choice apart from coilovers of course. I have also heard good stuff about kayaba agx but dont have personal experience so i cant say something for sure

according to tein maximum lowering front 80mm rear 85mm

I have heard 5 and 6 cms lowering but if you plan do something like this better buy a seat with a suspension (to be honest i cant remember anyone who kept it so low)

Mmm delivery times is a mystery from whiteline. If demon tweeks have it on stock (check that from their site) its only delivery time-i guess a couple of days. if they dont have it in stock it will be a problem cause whiteline is closed for x`mas and even if the werent closed their shippings are a bit slow.

And yes the price was from demon tweeks.

Yep Robbo got me. And he site is pretty good i will just add this site where is an animated explanation of what the adjustable panhard rod does:

http://www.rs-r.co.jp/products/lateral/index.htm

watch the flash i think its very enlightining. The price for whiteline`s should be approximately 66gbp. and most of the other jap solutions have similar price...

There is indeed adjustable panhard rod most known would be whitelines and you can purchase it straight from whiteline or demon-tweeks. Other options would be RS*R`s or cuscos but both hard to find so according to me not bother.

However there is something incorrect the camber cannot be adjusted as we have a solid rear axle and therefore the camber is fixed. You only change the rods length to align it as with the current design when you lower the car the rear axle goes a little left if am not mistaken.

Concerning what is a panhard rod read these (of course all the articles are worth reading) http://hardcore.ep91.com/sus_phrod.html

Concerning anti lift this pdf http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/Effec...0WL%20ALK_b.pdf

helps a lot although it might get a bit heavy.

Now about the rear strut the difference between a two point and three theoreticaly exists up to which point i cannot tell however the only way to find something like this out would be either someone who had both (i dont know any) or skidpad and lateral forces but this is even more difficult. However i believe a differnce should exist cause its a bit simple theory that i have in mind. A two point just transfers the strain and flex from the one side of the car to the other and therefore nothing reduces the body flex we simply split it with the three point a part of the strain is absorbed by the hatch floor in a place that hasnt any straight effect on the suspension geometry (which is the floor) so there should be a difference. But i cant be positive as there are many factors.

Now something more interesting zep rm produces two bars (plus bars if i remember right) which convert the two point strut into a three point with an obvious a believe way which is something interesting its the only other application of three point rear strut i have met and is even more interesting if it can be used with other strut eg cusco.

And a question does anyone have a front three point strut?

However it`s my opinion to postpone the purchase currently and get new coilovers Tein, D2`s, Buddy Club, Jic, Cusco i dont know which (although i believe tein are the best of all). However if you insist you can try find a some used ones cause (new) coilovers and cheap are contradicting terms (although in the long term they tend to be cheaper ). My third solution would be to try improving the handling by other stuff rear anti roll bar, strut bars,panhard rod, anti-lift, new bushes, a setup in the camber toe-in(out) (you will need adjustable camber plates-top mounts but its a minor cost). Especially the setup can surpisingly help you.

and some more sites

http://www.tein.co.uk/ (TEIN)

http://www.d2racingsport.co.uk/ (D2)

http://www.okuyama-go.to/products/ (carbing and some more mostly for chassis tuning)

http://www.jic-magic.com (jic magic although starlet is not mentioned there was/is produced a coilover for us) OR http://www.jic-magic.co.jp/f_index.html (if you prefer japanese)

http://www.buddyclub.us/ (buddy club)

http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_cont.html (cusco)

http://www.zep-rm.com/partslist/Parts_top/...op.new-zep4.htm (zep rm)

http://www.whiteline.com.au/ (whiteline)

http://www.rd-tanabe.com/ (tanabe)

http://trdparts.jp/english/ (trd of course of course)

I am sorry if i have forgotten any company although i believe this are the most important. Some sites might not include starlet however products were made and if you mail them they will probably confirm so if not you can find it somewhere else or go to other product

A good technician can make a good rollcage, however there are ready solutions as cusco mentioned and others:

For cusco http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_rollbar.html

and for another company with more products (Carbing)

http://www.okuyama-go.to/products/dash/toyota_04.shtml

it has many pages as there are many products steel and aluminum