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Dylanfarrell

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Posts posted by Dylanfarrell

  1. yes ^^^^^ 195/50/15

    im trying to buy a yaris d4d box , if i find 1 cheap ish but there freaking waaaaay overpriced !!!!!!

    D4d boxes are all expensive because they fail so regularly and they're the same box in nearly all the D4D's like avensis and corolla

    Oul lad has a D4D Auris and the first gearbox blew up and cracked the housing. Bought a second box and had it professionally rebuilt to be sure it was A1 going in and within a few months that blew as well. On his 3rd box which he bought refurbished with warranty in exchange for his broken gearbox. Hopefully this one lasts a little longer lol

  2. do you need a conversion plate, or does the bellhousing match up to most toyota engines or something? presumably custom shifter parts would need to be made as well.

    For which conversion? You can get a 6 speed out of the corolla g6 which comes with 4efe. Alternatively you can get the gear stack, diff and housing from a BZR and swap it into the bellhousing from a gt/glanza. Open to correction on this though

  3. It's broke, and haven't got round to taking the broken screws out of the boot! Need both new plates, just lazy and haven't had time!

    Monza shocks and rsr springs :)

    Nice drop on them, next on my list me thinks after seeing this :p

  4. So went and tried everything. Bled from back corner all the way around again. Covered the MC with a but of plastic to get a better seal and still no dirt or bubbles from the caliper. Bled the MC in situ and still nothing.

    Hardly to do with the smaller N/A brake servo being up to pushing enough fluid for the BZG brakes?

  5. take all wheels off, take cap off brake fluid res.

     

    start car, get someone to keep applying the brake on command

     

    get a hose and a cup part full of brake fluid, attach to passenger side rear bleed nipple, loosen and get person to pump break till it's clear. tighten nipple

     

    again on driver side rear, again on driver side front, again on passenger side front. keep topping up brake fluid res. (you may need to do the cycle twice to make sure they are bled correctly, i've had a lot of air come out when doing it a second time so best to do it twice, if not three times)

     

    it still takes 2-3 pumps after this process? it should be stopping with the first push on the brake

    See this is where you differ. From reading and being told by others they all say to leave the car off during bleeding? Could this be the culprit? As I've followed pretty much everything you've said there to a tee more than once and every time there's been nothing but clear brake fluid coming from the tube

  6. Okay so, I've fit my BZG brakes, discs and pads.

    I fully retracted the pistons before fitting. Made sure the MC was completely topped up, cleared the bleed nipples with the compressor and applied grease to threads to ensure tight seal, clamped lines before refitting. Lid left on MC and engine off. Copper washers replaced and everything on tight as I could manage

    Started by opening front passo side and pumped with the nipple open for a minute into a jar of fluid to pass as much air as I could first. Did the same for driver side then. Once I got a bit of a feel in the pedal I bled both the fronts ensuring fluid stayed topped up.

    Problem is now once the car starts up all feel is gone from pedal and takes 3 pumps to stop the car. I then went on to bleed all the brakes from furthest from the MC to the closest and it improved some but still takes 2 or 3 pumps to stop.

    Any suggestions as to the issue??

  7. For reference to anyone looking in future, Mx3 V6 brake discs are a straight fit for these calipers with a small bit trimmed off the hub to fit the disc over the hub

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