mrsilly

Selling my JAM ECU over on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231971962621

Works on manuals too!

Bought off of someone on here a fair while ago. My third cyclinder ring gave up so i gave the car away and kept this, never got round to buying another one, time to let someone else enjoy it.

Quick update anyone who needs a replacement should get the one from Aaron radiators in the first post, it's the same size rad as the original.

I'll take the BOV if Lilmiss doesn't.

anyone found an answer to our problem yet????

I've had this problem for a while. I was down seeing a mate at the weekend and mentioned it to him, he said to connect the rocker cover breather back to the air intake to reduce the pressure (i currently have a breather filter on my rocker cover). I haven't had time to try it yet but will give it a bash this week.

Lost interest in it.

I was at this stage a month ago but decided to sort it out for myself as no garage (it's been to 5) seemed able to fix the slow pick up.

So yesterday I started. I found the slow pickup fault within 10 mins, there was an inch of takeup before the throttle started to open and it never opened fully because of this. Adjusted it and took it for a spin, it was quite a different drive

I got back, ripped out the aircon, removed the turbo, fitted racetech manifold with all new gaskets, put my hybrid turbo on that's I had repaired four months ago, front mounted the intake, changed a few hoses, put it all back together and it worked! However I nearly soiled my trousers at 0.6 bar when the turbo came on full so I drove back home.

Will check everything is tight this morning, plumb my EBC back in and go for another drive.

Well pleased with myself. The Mrs isn't!

i have a second hand one you could buy off me if you like. perfect working condition comes with fan etc. few bent fins as expected. £40 + delivery. pm me if interested.

cheers

sam

Annoying as i was in Croydon yesterday. Don't need the fan, is it definately from an auto?

yup i know, my point was that the prices stated on the websites indicate that they are bog standard thin core rads and he should be looking to pay atleast £100+ for one

Ok, so the Aaronradiator one is 27mm thick compared to camskills EP82 Turbo auto one which is 17mm I'd buy the Toyota OEM one if anyone has one new.

Hi, can anyone point me in the direction of where to buy a radiator for an automatic V please?

Here's what i can find:

http://www.thecarparts.co.uk/acatalog/Radi...__1_3_2364.html

http://camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m19b0s1301p61913

http://www.aaronradiator.co.uk/products/Ra...-8380-1689.html

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-PASEO-1-5-16V...=item2562f54cfc

The Toyota part number is: 16400-11760 google gives nothing!

Are any of the above a solution?

Thanks

Mark

One thing to do before buying is check insurance costs!

it dont even work on my iphone 3gs im like wtf pisses me off lol

whers my control panel on phone

It's the website control panel, at the top of the menu bar on the left hand side of the site.

Check the you have Standard Editor selected in 'My Control Panel' > 'Board Settings'

yeah also read you shouldnt expose some parts of the ecu to light, i would just leave it as long as it working?

yeah also read you shouldnt expose some parts of the ecu to light, i would just leave it as long as it working?

The EPROM will not erase just by opening it. They are UV erasable but most have stickers over the windows (on the photos I've seen of them opened) and my eraser takes 20mins to blank one, I'd guess that would be equivalent to leaving it in the sun for a couple of weeks.

You'll be fine just to pop it open to find what's rattling. If you feel like it could you put a sticker over the window and take a photo for me?

Shouldnt need bracing if its been made properly and from decent material (not cheap steel)

Cheers guys, i'll take another look tomorrow and if it doesn't snag on the gearbox i'll take a chance. It's a Tongs CT9, the basic one with the bigger ported internal waste gate.

Last year i bought a Zisco ss decat from someone on here, I jacked the car up yesterday to fit it and noticed that there is nowhere to attach the brace. Looked on the Zisco website and it says not for auto next to it. My question is, how important is the brace? Has anyone modified the brace to fit an auto? Does anyone make a decat specifically for an auto?

Thanks

Mark

DONT WANT TO SOUND STUPID BUT CAN YOU USE A JAM MANUAL ECU ON AN AUTO

AS NEVER SEEM TO BE ANY AUTO ECU FOR SALE, IS IT ONLY THE PINS OR IS IT THE MAP

AS IT IS SELF LEARNING WILL IT ALTAR TO COPE WITH AUTO BOX ?? PLEASE HELP

You cannot use a manual ECU on an Auto, it only works the other way round.

Do any of the traders on here sell something like this:

Ebay clamp type relocation.

I'd prefer one that uses the existing mount holes rather than squishing the grill.

Try resetting your ECU. My car was doing all sorts of weird idling things when the timing was setup. It didn't return to normal until i disconnected the battery for something else

It's Ultra:

http://www.nengun.com/ultra/multi-mode-meter-plus

Take the but nut off the front and the full centre cap will fall to bits and fall out

Will try it myself now. The guy at the tyre shop said it doesn't come out. I will try with a persuader if it doesn't fall apart.

Adapter? Why do you need an adaptor?

Because there is no hole in the middle of them.

I know a few of you have these wheels but where did you get them balanced? I've tried all the usual places but nobody has the adapter.

I'll travel anywhere around the northern section of the M25.

Thanks.

Just wondering which FMIC kit is the best fit for an automatic EP91, the gear box is huge and having studied pics of the pipe routing of peoples kits on here it looks like most will block access to the transmission fluid dip stick.

Thanks

Mark

Extra mods shouldn't make the car any less responsive, an exhaust if anything providing better flow would increase throttle response... better flow= more torque.

You say you had the cambelt done? might well be a tooth out on the cam timing... happened to me and car felt like crap, almost as if your driving through water, the car wants to go but just wont!

if the cam timing is fine then check the map sensor also could be your knock sensor? pulling timing and making it sluggish. check those and if still nothing could be the coil pack. but you saying it doesn't kick down properly would make me think its a sensor issue telling the ecu to retard the timing to keep the engine safe

dont worry though it will be something little and once sorted it will drive and kick like a mofo again

The car does go fine, it is just sluggish to pull away before the turbo kicks in and if i keep my footdown then it goes through 1,2 &3 fine the holding back on kick down is kind of odd, I will try and video the rev counter over the weekend, it also dies a bit around 5500 RPM when accelerating in 4th.

If the sensors are faulty would it not show in diagnostics? I will check the cam belt myself to make sure this is correct.

Thanks

Ok, after a little more research it would appear it could be down to having changed from the standard exhaust to the HKS Hi-Power silent it's now missing the torque lower down the rev range.

Obviously with an auto this low down torque is very necessary so how can i get some back. I have been told i can adjust timing and this will improve it, anyone tried this? Is it safe to do?

I'll take one please. PM me payment details.

Thanks

Mark