candy_red

The numbers you get when compression testing are higher than what you state due to all kinds of real world factors like heat valve opening and closing times etc. Not important in your case.

Selecting the right shim is really as easy as you said and as the text you have circled yellow in your previous post.

First step is to measure the gap

2nd is identify the existing shims thickness

3rd do the math to figure out new shim's thickness considering 0,2 gap on intake and 0,3mm on exhaust side.

I had a very hard time getting hold of all the shims when i built mine due to oversized valves and seats and the extensive head work. So i had a file made with all the part numbers and sizes. They are quite pricy if you manage to get them form TOYOTA so try to mix and match the ones you already have as much as possible  in order to order as few as possible. Plus i had to call literally every dealer in the country to find them all so this might be a difficulty for you as well.

Its really that easy though no need to worry about it. Its just a little time consuming.

4E-FTE VALVE SHIMS PART#.xlsx

Permatex Supra Grey will do the job. Haven't had it fail on me neither oil nor coolant.

Also if your are doing it with the engine in the car you need to be extra careful how you place it on the gearbox side over the rear seal cover. I ve found it tricky as its narrow and space around it is really tight between the gearbox and no.5 main cap.

A second person to help you keep it aligned will make it much easier. 

Oil pressure gauge will work excellent with a remote adapter and tbh its the most vital of the two.

I have never had oil temp issues back when on ct9 even with light track duty and 1 bar of boost. Anything involving road driving wont cause oil temps above 110 degrees which is what i'd call excessive.

If you MUST see oil temp as i said before sandwich adapter is the best bet. I remember i shaved mine just barely on the seal and never leaked over the 6-7 years i was using it.

Relocation kits will give you the advantage of easy filter changes multiple sensor locations to choose from and also the ability to maybe later add a cooler.

I have used all Mocal items, filter takeoff plate, remote oil filter head, thermostatic sandwich adapter, sandwich adapter for the sensors and a 10-row cooler with all the fittings and braided hose. If i m allowed to i can share the guys i got everything from off ebay. They are based in the UK and they were very helpful to help me sort out the system.

Mind you that for this application i did eventually had to grind down the P/S bracket because the design of the takeoff plate wouldn't allow me to shave it like i did with the sandwich adapter, although only barely at the base as you can see in the picture below.

This is the last resort and to be fair the most expensive solution to combine everything. Keep in mind i am running P/S, AC, big turbo bottom mounted and all that on a Yaris which has less space than the Starlet up front.

Excuse me for the lengthy post!

Guys, dont bother fitting a temp sensor on the remote standoff. Its not accurate at all as there is no circulation of oil.

It will be extremely slow to react to any changes in temp and will never ultimately show correct value.

So its  not worth all the brainstorming to make this work in order to only find out that your oil only "warms to about 50-60 C " and never past that, no matter what you do or how you drive.

I m just saying this because i have tried it and eventually went the sandwich plate way before changing to cooler and remote filter location. It is possible to only shave some material off the sandwich plate instead of the bracket, at least thats how i did it.

I wouldn't know as i installed it with the 1.5mm banjo right away. Did have some smoke issues but was from a slightly kinked return. When i fixed that everything was fine.

But there goes to show you, that even with a 1.5mm feed hole there will easily be flooding in the cartridge. I imagine that it would be much worse with a full size banjo.

Turbos dont need that much oil as we'd like to think. Play it safe and go with 1.5mm.

The spot weld idea sounds good as you would only need to drill the weld and not through the whole damn bolt. Its an easy swap at the end of the day if it doesnt work out and wont cause any harm other than some smoking as its not a ball bearing turbo.

I remember back when i fitted the TD04 reading somewhere that it needed some kind of restriction and 1.5mm feed hole would be appropriate.

Long story short as i couldnt find a 1.5mm banjo anywhere i got a bolt and drilled a hole along the thread axis and one horizontally essentially creating the banjo i wanted.

Never had a problem with oil consumption and turbo was mint and clean when i removed it after 6 years. 

Id imagine a regular banjo with a big opening would certainly flood it and create smoke.

I stand by the sandwich plate option being the best just because you can mount both pressure and temp sensors.

Although another solution would be to place it in the sump but that requires removal drilling taping and then resealing.

WIll you be running AC?

If not then a sandwich plate is the best and cleanest solution. Just grab one and grind away the material needed to clear the power steering tensioner bracket.

I have my old one that i used before adding the oil cooler and filter relocation, i can snap some pics for you to see what it looked like when i get home.

wow so much room in the corolla!!!

Good progress man, keep it coming.

1 liter should be enough to fill the system with some to spare.

This looks like the 5efe TB. The inlet is identical to the turbo one, but necks down to 45mm towards the plate. It also has the variable TPS.

I also believe this tubular manifold will provide massive gains up to 4-5k rpm. It will be a restriction though in the upper rev range compared to the turbo manifold. Dyno testing is your best friend on these things.

JDM cars usually dont have immobilizers.

You probably wont need to do any of these things 

Also make sure the igniter is well grounded . That can cause lack of spark.

You ll be surprised how much better spool you ll get just by that tighter spring.

I remember way back when i installed mine even though initial setting turned out to be 0.4 bar instead of the irregular 0.6-0.8 i was getting with the sloppy old oem actuator, i was caught in surprise by how much more responsive the car felt.

Excellent work. Wouldnt have looked this good even when it was new in the factory!!!

On 1/22/2021 at 8:14 PM, bittenfleax said:

Oh yeah, so that's what the ball is for in the micrometre set 😆😅 I will do your method tonight and review the results cheers man!

I did install all the caps (torqued down as well), I just measured without the bearings to get the initial bore size. Then I just add the thickness of the bearings onto this. I then subtract this result from the lobe of the crank which gives me my tolerance - means I'm not scratching the surfaces of my bearings with a telescoping gauge!

i ll also confirm that for bearing clearance as mentioned you need to torque the mains with the bearings installed. Measure the crank lobe with the mic and then the bore 90 degrees to the parting line using the dial bore gauge. Substract accordingly

Your method seems logical on first thought but the bearing shells kinda distort to their apropriate shape once they are inside the bore

Keep us posted on the results! 0.133 would be way off

Thread revival guys but what has everyone done about the gasket between the rocker and baffle?

I cannot find any info nor part number through epc for it.

Its not bad tbh. 

Have done the rocker cover coldpipe and other parts back in 2015. They never got dirty and nothing really shows maybe because its black. Although to be fair wrinkle powdercoat is not a coarse as the usual wrinkle achieved with some dedicated spray paints. in short id say its minimal maintance 

what a lovely gearbox this turned out.

Im doing mine wrinkle black but thats a damn nice colour dont know what you are on about lol

Keep it up man!

Does it crank? 

First thing to check is if you got spark at the plugs.

Make sure the igniter is bolted to a solid ground. I had that happened to me and it cranked endlessly w/o starting up.

oh this is getting goooood!

Love a build with attention to detail and cleanliness.

You are so lucky being able to do stuff like that at work lol

NIce 

well at 250hp you bearly pushing its clamping force but from my experience with reputable manufacturers is they underrate the torque figures so i guess there's plenty room left.

thanks for the input !

wow thats amazing work on those pie cuts!

Love the wepr kit Sacha does amzing work Cant wait to fit mine

How does the clutch feel? I ve bought the exact same kit but  wont be having my engine put together anytime soon as i need to source more parts.

Also does the c160 transmission just bolt on? how is it holding up?

Its a big hassle smoothing it, that looks great dont worry as soon as some paint is laid on it its gonna even out all the imperfections. 

I cant wait to see this updated.

I m currently about a week away from receiving my wepr manifold and dp and cant describe how excited i am.

I m also in the same situation with parts in my garage lol although not gonna say what turbo i ll be using, ita quite similar and should take me to 400 hopefully

What ecu are you going with? I believe fiske is a fan of link ecus. I m getting the storm after i break in the engine

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