Zeldoz

I ran a TD04 on an externally gated setup.

Ran 0.6 bar, and standard fuel pressure. NO FCD. The wastegate held lower boost that on a CT9 on high boost anyway. Well under fuel cut, and nothing to worry about.

I ran it for 4 nearly 5 months before i went EMB @ TD.

My zisco is heatwrapped on a TD04 full boost is around 4,1k i "think"

Mine is SS i believe... Couldn't fault it!

Mines 2.5 all the time.

You can keep the bulbs, but there might be a little bit of back glow then, but shouldn't be too bad. Without bulbs the needles won't lit at all. Needles will look quite "faded" for two reasons, contrast between normal and plasma dials is so huge and bulbs aren't located optically. That's why I recommended to use leds to get the needles lit brighter.

Could you link me to what would definately fit and work?

I do not have one on the gearbox... So how can i exceed 112mph?

To see if the crank seal is leaking the gearbox has to be removed, so does the clutch & flywheel assembly.

What a bastard! Okay mate, thanks ill bear it in mind!

Is this to late to jump onboard?

Mrs's isn't in the way now lol!

First loosen speedo cable from the engine bay, so you can pull the dash clocks out or you can try to unplug the speedo cable behind the dials if you got small hands.

Then take the clocks in parts and remove old dials, they are attached with two small screws each.

You might need to cut bits off from the dial surround to get the plasma dial connectors fit perfectly behind the surround and you have to drill a small hole to a rev dial for the small needle pin. Do it with time, so you won't ruin it.

Then install the new dials, you have to bend the needles to get the dials on. Don't remove needles as it's pain in the ass to get them correct again! Do this with time too and it will turn out well. Put the small screws back on, connect the dials to a inverter included and connect the inverter to your dash light wires. Test the dials before you put everything back!

Remember to leave some bulbs for the needles or they won't light up at all. I prefer color leds, so the needles will match the plasma colors.

Thanks for that! Seems a little more involved than i anticipated! Would i need to remove the old bulbs on the dials currently? I also notice in pictures how unlit the needles seem on the plasmas?

Is this because the the bulbs havent been left in?

Is it a chance that it just cut in time? I know once I was on my own airfield it went well off the clock and cut out at about 140 or so?

What?

Okay, So how can mine be de-restricted?

The only way to do the rear crank seal is to remove the box, these engines are pretty bad for leaky crank seals so it'll most likely be that. Can be severe in the way of causing premature wear on a brand new expensive clutch.

If you can select all gears at speed id say the box is fine, the syncros normally go first, could try changing the oil and see if it sorts the noise out but i suspect the release bearing is making the noise, any non Toyota OEM bearing is shite.

Thats good to know. I might do that Sunday and see if it helps!

Can i see if the crank shaft is leaking WITHOUT box out? Just to see, if it is ill do the job!

So im now confused. I thought the converter will allow your dials to start reading in MPH. Then, with this the car will surpass 112mph or whatever the speed limiter is..

Either way. Mine will pull well off the clocks.

Even before emanage i know it would surpass 112mph too.

The reason im questing this is im about to buy some plasma dials. So with the MPH face on i want to be sure its reading in MPH otherwise ill be guessing speeds until i source a converter!

Oil inside the clutch housing is when the rear crank seal has failed, this pisses oil all over the clutch and causes it to slip.

The metallic noise sounds like a release bearing noise.

How new is the gearbox oil and do you have a LSD ?

I Have 2L of gearbox oil.. which i havent bothered putting in yet as i suspected the thing was a goner.

I havent changed it in the 6 months of ownership.

Non-LSD C56 both or whatever i think.

Rear crank seal.. hm, How can i go about checking this? THe mechanic suspected it was leaking through the bell housing, or the driveshaft seal.. but couldn;t work out how it had entered the chamber unless it had leaked internally?

I need to check that crank seal. How severe is that?

Wanting to put accord type-r recaro's in. But i do miss my armrest from my old golf.

Will one fit.. i do know with recaro bolsters the seats are extremely close together!

Such a sad story to read

Do you have poly bush engine mounts. if you do that will make it wine like a bitch mine dose loads as for metal on meal sound could it not be the release bearing. heard the ones that come with the clutch arnt the best.

I have used the release bearing supplied. Didn't know they were pony until after!

Its on standard engine mounts, Its faultless other than whiney, and a dodgey noise! But, it was leaking inside quite badly..?

Going to be ordering some today to try and fit.

Never done it before, not stupid with wiring, but nervous about damaging anything.

Is there a guide to aid me, or anyone whos done this before who can take a minute to explain whats involved, and anything specific i may need to do?

Thanks

I dont think it looks right with a space in between the two lights tbh

That's JDM lights.. My glanza is like that as standard

So i looked the other week for a speedo converter. Couldn't see one, decided to shop around and buy one from here.

The other day i was out in the V when an RS6 decided to play, so i happily accepted and chassed him. My clocks currently have a 110mph overlay over the old KM/PH i guess.

Anyway, It went off the clocks and kept going until the needle stopped moving as the dials are too small to allow it to make a complete circle. Even when it stopped it was still pulling in 5th... I was definately going over 112mph. I wont state the obvious, but i was going excessively faster.

Is there any other locations one could be? I am mapped on a EManage, but my understanding was this doesn't remove it only ultimate does?

Obviously, this all happened on my uncles, mates, cousins, sisters, dogs private airfield.

Basically, My gearbox seems to whine alot at low speed you can hear it whineing away.. Also sometimes when accelerating. I suppose its noticeable in low gears 1,2,3 in 4th/5th you cannot really hear it screaming for mercy.

Also, if im idling there is a metal on metal sound. At first i thought TD had blown my engine, but when you depress the clutch and lift the revs its perfect. Disengage it and the sound returns?

To note, when i removed it to put my 6puk in, Inside the clutch chamber it was extremely black and oilly my mechanic said thats not a good sign, but i had no choice but to carry on as i needed the car to commute.

Does it look like a new box job?

I have a COMPLETE Glanza loom. Front to back of the car...

If your interested in doing a conversion!

So does he if you read?

My ex who was a avid addicted smoker for 6 years, bought one. Literally within a day dropped to 1-2 fags a day. Then entirely stopped.

I smoke, bought a vape stick and lost it. So im smoking again now lol...

i have the same! I guess you can remove

When your soon to be fíance leaves you.

They spend 2 years filling your head with ambitions and dreams, until you start believing it all. You buy a ring to propose, book a holiday and begin flat hunting. For her to pull it all from under your nose.

Completely headfucked.