dwd

Hi Guys, Can anyone help me identify this diff. Came out of my n/a gearbox so is 6 bolt. It seems to be 1 way. Doesnt look like Kaaz or Cusco. Im trying to get a rebuild kit for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've heard about using a transit connect ARB on the rear of starlets. Has anyone got any pics or info on which drop links to use and where to mount them?

Its actually 5EFHE

Does anyone know if I need a 'seal on block' or 'seal in pump' type oil pump for a 5E engine?

Ok I have found the problem. And yes I am an idiot lol. This bolt was left out of the box. I cant get it in now because whatever it screws into inside the gearbox doesn’t line up. Does anyone know how I can get it fitted with the box in the car? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Im having a problem selecting reverse. It grinds a lot. I have just changed the gearbox, including the fork and release bearing. The clutch seemed in good condition when I had the box out. It’s a lot worse now with the new gearbox. It can barely get it into reverse. The forward gears are all fine. Has anyone any ideas what the problem could be? Can the clutch pedal be adjusted? by the way, its an n/a EP82

I'll take the D1 Spec carbon shifter. PM me the payment details

I thought the button would turn it into a full blown drift car. You mean it won't? Thanks for your that insight, it's basically a fly off handbrake. Needed for a targa rally car

Does anyone know anywhere selling these for starlets (FWD)? http://www.driftworks.com/spin-turn-handbrake-button-ae86-rx7.html#reviews

Anyone? I spoke to Bilstein this morning. they reckon Glanzas had struts with screw off tops to take inserts. Anyone know if this is correct?

I'm looking for Glanza standard front struts. The type with screw off tops that can take replacement inserts.

Has anyone ever fitted them? Do standard EP91 shocks have a screw off top?

Ive been having issues with my n/a 4EFE bogging down at low revs. I tried to calibrate the TPS but the switching point seemed to keep changing making it impossible to set correctly so I guess it is faulty. I have been looking for a new one and notice the later model n/a have a fixed non adjustable one. Could that be used on my car?

That's interesting. Any idea what model starlet is compatible?

Guys, This a bit of a strange request. Im looking for some springs (standard type, not coilovers) that are stiffer than standard (approx. 180 lbs) but are standard height (or close). This is for motorsport reasons with restrictive regulations. Before I go to the expense of getting springs made, does anyone have any ideas? Maybe cynos ones or somethings? Anyone know if there any options out there?

Thanks guys. I cant seem to find any on ebay at the moment. Will keep an eye out.

Any ideas where to get them from?

Ive had a set of Magnacor leads for a while which have caused various misfire problems. When Magnacor tried to charge to fix their crappy leads I decided enough was enough. (their 10 year guarantee means nothing). I then bought some cheap 'japanparts' ones to keep me going. All misfire problems disappeared, but they are extremely tight in the head bores and feel like they will fall apart when I pull them out. So I'm looking for a decent set of leads. I would go for genuine Toyota but I assume they are big money. Can anyone recommend a good quality set of leads for reasonable money?

Its an n/a ECU. Thanks. will try that

My car is a carb car that’s been converted to a fuel injected 4EFE so it has not diagnostic box. Does anyone know how to set the ignition timing without bridging TE1 & E1?

I don't have a picture but I'm pretty sure its the round type

If the TPS calibration is out would it cause this or does that just affect idle? There was about a quarter of a tank in it. Might just have been fuel swashing away from pump. Not too worried about that, just thought it might be connected.

Guys, Ive had a problem for a while with my JDM 4EFE n/a starlet. Its bogs down on low RPM but then revs cleanly once it gets up the revs. Its got progressively worse and now is very bad. Once its hits about 4000 rpm it goes like stink but below that its dead. And a new problem started yesterday, on a very long fast corner is dies completely for a few seconds and then goes again. Seems like fuel starvation. Any suggestions? Could it be the throttle position sensor?

Does anyone have a bottom radiator bracket, bolt on type one. I need it to fit the 1330 type radiator to a 1.0L shell.

No its in the dizzy