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Jordk

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Posts posted by Jordk

  1. Yeah it was Matty that mapped it. Didn't see him when I went to collect the car so I emailed him just awaiting response.

    The exhaust system was part of the racetech set up. 2.5" straight back from turbo to back box. Nothing too restrictive there.

    Here's the print outs. Quite linear graphs other than the AFR's

    ED91CAD1-A1C7-423E-9DF3-9FEC6974B6C2.jpg

    26C0D05A-76A3-48A0-B258-6E8FF7D753FA.jpg

    7FF958E0-C43D-4097-9E61-64F610459C5C.jpg

    98545C42-5A56-4E60-BBE1-01E3CFD6AB18.jpg

  2. I finally got my car mapped fully today. Im running a fully forged 4efte with a gt28 race tech set up. Also has a zisco fuel rail 550cc injectors, zisco plenum intake manifold, fmic etc etc.

    It made 253bhp at 1.6 bar.

    I guess putting a bit more boost through it would get me more but what sort of boost is plausible? 2.0bar pushing it? I'll get a photo of the graph up tonight.

  3. All swapping the wires around does is reverse the polarity thus making the fan spin the wrong way/in reverse pushing not pulling. I never had air con to start with the previous owner removed it. Worst case scenario I'm thinking of just running it off a 12v constant feed on a switch. Good idea?

  4. I fitted an 8" fan to my half rad on my starlet and run it through the standard fan wiring. The fan runs constant on ignition. I've heard this is common and not much of an issue. What I'm finding is that it stays on and is fine until it's up to tenperature (more so after I've moved it around the units I keep it at) that the fan cuts out and the engine starts to overheat. Is it possible that there's something up wiring wise? Or that the fan motor just isn't rated to run constant and cuts out due to overheating of the fan itself? I have a larger 10" fan I was planning to fit instead of there's a fan issue.

  5. That's the impression I'm getting. It's like it was after it was built before the map on the EMU. Is it possible the EMU has lost the map?

    The car won't hold idle it just seems to splutter and die without the throttle being opened or feathered

  6. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue. I've had a base map set up on my Glanza so that I could drive back and forth to the garage for Mot and mapping. Upon some repairs I carried out I had the battery disconnected for a few days. Upon starting the car again later on its started running like shit (like before map and fueling etc was set up). Nothing other than the abs was removed or tampered with. Any ideas? I know some stock ecu's reset the map after the battery's been disconnected. Any easy ways around this?

  7. Recently got myself a TD ABS removal kit and didn't get an instruction sheet with it. Does anyone have a copy i can see? Or even a picture of the kit fitted would be enough. Got everything removed just trying to work out which of the 6 lines goes where as they're all different lengths/fittings. Any help appreciated!!


  8. Just got my car back from an mot after my build. It failed on the hazards and indicators not working independently and they only seem to work when the lock or unlock button is pressed on the fob. Anyone have any idea what this might be? The alarm hasn't been tampered with since day one. I don't know what make the alarm is either as there's no obvious markings anywhere and all it really does is allow remote central locking.

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