rmsnoel

Get this on ebay man Id guys from poland and russia looking to but mine

A regular oil change and drive it hard.

Handling mods and good brake pads are a better place to start though

VIDEO!!!

You can just put the engine in. But are you looking to use the 5efhe wiring?

It would be alittle quiter and ALOT more raspy- think irish twincam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PKaja9cu6M&feature=youtube_gdata_player

A db killer off ebay for £10 gives u a nice option if u need her quiet for a bit

Would an na get hot enough for it to need one?

The glanza hangers are alot further back than the uk hangets. The uk hangers are on the rear gearbox mount and the glanza hangers are closer to handbrake. Should be a simple fix dude

I think the pump running when the ignition is on so you shouldnt have to crank it to pump

Oooooh, you should buy the acis manifold in the for sale section

I would fit smaller injectors and start from there

If you look at the pulley and both wheels are wobbling your bolt is loose, if 1wheel wobbles then its the rubber.

This is my uk spec pulley but you get the idea. Remember your jap pulley is a harmonic damper so a fully solid aftermarket pulley isnt the best idea apparently. (google it)

The pulleys arent solid metal. The metal connected metal by a band of rubber. When the rubber breals down or starts to come unstuck the rattle starts. At idle you can see the wobble. You might even see scrapes on the plastic timing belt cover. At a guess id say when the heater and lights are on full theres more power draw on the altenator whuch is driven by a belt from the crank pulley. This is happening more and more on turbo and non turbo cars. Youve loads of options here but either way get er fixed soon as u can. You can see a broken pulley in my build thread

Have you any information or advice to share on tuning a 4efe russia style??

Does the sump need resealed at the bottom of the oil pump as well?

Make: Toyota

Model: Starlet EP91 na

Year: 1998

Manual/Auto: 3speed auto a132l

Performance Modifications: maybe almost 100bhp?

Driving style: Fast road, raped from cold, full throttle gearchanges and semi regular launches

Ive have the exhaust manifold but not the 2_1 downpipe section. I can get you the sizes if u wanted to get that park made. Pm me your postcode and ill price delivery

Yeah I filed the standard throttlebody shaft down to 7mm and Ive had no issues, if could get the pierburg to work with the auto gearbox Id use it as the feel through the pedal is far nicier because of the finer spring. My sister done the cfm maths for me on the two and the pierburg is by far the better option because of the shaft diameter. Gimme a shout when the cars roadworthy, ive a 100ps ecu I might part with7500rpm

Tidy work enzo, that pierburg throttlebody will feel alot nicer than the austin ones. Youve put some amount of work into it. Did you drill out the butterfly bolts?

Ive the corolla exhaust manifold on my car, it lines up sweet with the standard exhaust at the flexi. Keep up the good work and thanks for the photos keep them coming

Im sure a breaker would sell u one cheap to experiment with if u promised to take photos and that when your finished, theres no market for secondhand clocks that I know of. The euro clock look different to our uk clocks if that interests you

You need to be using the inlet air temperture sensor lads. Corolla manifold should be increasing your mpg. Jamie lad is your oil fresh, if not get her changed, nothing fancy but by fuck it helps. Check your cars warming up properly. Does it feel sharp enough, like is your engine in good nick. Your tank guage isnt divided into four quarters equally if u look one is smaller. I do 40 mile after she reaches the empty line. If you join te1 and e1 in your diagnostics plug your idle will rise then drop and sit happily at /750_800rpm. If it doesnt clean your throttlebody with a rag inside.

Id change your sparkplugs first though..

dont think mine will be going back anywhere unless i get the chance to buy it back from insurance which would be nice. and we are going to use it for rally cross next year with the uni hopefully so will be doing alot of experimenting then

i honestly believe with some extra redline it would make close to if not 100bhp because on my old silver one, i had it dyno'd with the fte inlet and TB and it was still making power at redline (whilst badly over fuelling due to a badly adjusted fpr) unlike the corolla mani which made max power before redline

On that ryan, I wouldnt let them take your car. I just said no it belongs to me, I paid for it so Im keeping it. Ive never heard of any of our ones having to buy it back

Best gains for n/a tuning is raise the compression good set of cams and a decent map.

The idea behind the small tb and small runners is to increase the velocity of the air, tocreate more torque and increase the town drivability, Which might loose a bit of power. So fitting the corolla or fte intake would slow it down (probably) loose torque but gain a bit of power.

Again a bit of an opinion with no proof but just my thinking.

I agree morgey on the air velocity thought I foynd a definate measured gain on the 50mm throttlebody. Cause Ive the autobox I cou of repeat the same launch on the same road on the same day etc. As bolt on mods I go with any manifold and the bigger tb. After that we should follow the rules of na tuning

@ xpect Ive seen nothing to suggest different compression in 4efe engines

+1 for that. very helpful!

Thanks guys, Im just recycling info that been around a while, I think the best thing to do is hope ryan lang gets his crash damage sorted and fits his obx exhaust manifold- Id love to see his dyno when thats done. The 50mm throttlbody is the key, I believe thats where the restriction is. A free flowing backbox and tuned exhaust manifold would help revs rise quicker too and reduce that bogging down we get when changing gear. I firmly believe our gen2 uk ecu and injectors are good and with these bolt on mods plus maybe fueling tweeked we'll see power