Actuator Gone Bad?

[StanMan]

Ideas?

Yesterday I got a warning from boost gauge that car was overboosting (1.4 bar) only for a second as the loud beep on the dial kicked in. I re-calibrated the boost gauge and checked connections etc, although I am suspicious as it's a 'prosport' gauge. Which imo is cheap poo

I had the car mapped by Tuning Developments on 19th August (they just mapped it, no work on engine etc) . ( dyno printout http://i.imgur.com/SuzQh1U.jpg & http://i.imgur.com/dYq2lNw.jpg ) Car has been spot on boosting to little over 1 bar with creep included and I have been very happy with the results.

If you look on the printout from dyno, you can see that the 'curve' is terrible however you can't feel it when driving. The car only overboosts when at WOT at higher RPM's (over 5K). It tends to go to 1.1 bar and then gradually shoot up around 5500 rpm if throttle held open especially in 4th and 5th gear. I can still hear the wastegate flutter at low boost & the dump valve at higher boost, not that it means much.

Has the HKS actuator finally gave up? Just want to get some feedback and some tests I can do before buying another actuator and/or having a good look at the turbo wastegate.

Car has:

4E-FTE on standard internals (done by whoever rebuilt the engine, sounds sweet as a nut and runs like it too)

Full exhaust & decat with steel manifold (not sure what make)

Air filter relocation (done by me)

HKS Actuator

FMIC Jperformance internally cleaned before fitting (done by me)

Standard CT9 on internal waste gate

Emanage Ultimate ECU

HKS super sound dump valve

Cheers guys.

Edited November 12, 2016 by StanMan

[TD04GT]

If you port out the turbos wastegate it will allow the excess exhaust gas to bypass the turbo and prevent the spike

[StanMan]

If you port out the turbos wastegate it will allow the excess exhaust gas to bypass the turbo and prevent the spike

Yes I know this thanks. I'm not fussed as it was creeping exactly to whats shown on the dyno and i'm going for fordged 5E engine / TD04 hybrid at some point in the future (costs a lot of £ to do by yourself). Also I would be very cautious of even porting a CT9 as there is literally no material to work with due to the size of the turbo.

The point being; it wasn't doing it before which leads me to think the actuator has finally given up. Or the boost gauge is reading wrong.

Edited November 12, 2016 by StanMan

[Cattanach]

The weather has gotten a lot colder lately so more likely to creep higher

[StanMan]

The weather has gotten a lot colder lately so more likely to creep higher

Fair point, but that normally comes from atmospheric pressure. Hmmm very good point, will wind down the actuator to see if that sorts it tomorrow. I suppose lower intake charge temps would cause it due to higher air density. In all fairness I did put my hand on the intake manifold after a hard run and it was super cool.

This is the 1st turbo car I have ever had so it's a learning curve. I am well versed N/A engines (Honda B & K series engines) and know a bit about aviation with superchargers/turboprops to normalise air pressure etc.

Edited November 12, 2016 by StanMan

[5e colin]

Take actu of put long hose on it submerge it under water now blow in hose if no bubbles come up actuator is fine also check your boost sensor from prospect gauge do a thuroly test on that as it may be inconsistent, multimeter and air pressure regulator needed to do this test