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Well ive been wanting to derestrict my glanza in 1st and 2nd gear for ages now but was a bit worried about it :lol: just incase it cased problems. But at long last i thought ahhh stuff it lets get it off, so a quick fiddle with the pipes and walla! sorted, so i took it for a spin and fook me!! its so much quicker, but later that night i noticed the engine light was on in the left hand corner??? ;) it was running fine but its just the light was on so there must be something wrong?? could it be that the restrictor module wasnt detecting boost because its been bypassed so its telling the ecu somethings wrong?? ive put the restriction back on now and the lights gone back off but i really want to drive it without it as its so much better off the mark, any help would be great cheers starlybruiser :)

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Anyone got any ideas??? i really want to have the restriction removed but i dont want that bloody engine light on all the time just incase something goes wrong. theres got to be something badly wrong for that light to come on, any help please? cheers starly bruiser :lol:

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its nothing to worry bout all it probally is where it was cold last nite the boost is more densor so making proball near 0.9 bar in the higher gears the ecu is preparing to fuel cut and the light is just warning it u theres nothing wrong with the car at all.

you may hit fuel cut and u woill know u hit it has its like your car suddenly ran out of fuel and jerks

hope this helps

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its nothing to worry bout all it probally is where it was cold last nite the boost is more densor so making proball near 0.9 bar in the higher gears the ecu is preparing to fuel cut and the light is just warning it u theres nothing wrong with the car at all.

you may hit fuel cut and u woill know u hit it has its like your car suddenly ran out of fuel and jerks

hope this helps

So How Can I Stop It Doing This?? Because Come To Think Of It My Car Did Start To Jerk And Sorta Vibrate Alot So I Would Almost Definatley Say Its The Fuel Cut Like You Said, Is Getting A FCD The Only Way To Sort It?? And Why Doesnt Anyone Elses Car Do This?? Cheers starlybruiser :(

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it will hold boost better, it may also respond quicker so reduce chance of the boost creeping a little.......

but the big point is thats its adjustable. your car is just on the edge of fuel cut at the minute. if you have the hks adjustable actuator you can turn the boost down say 1 or 2psi to stop it being so close to cut.

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it will hold boost better, it may also respond quicker so reduce chance of the boost creeping a little.......

but the big point is thats its adjustable. your car is just on the edge of fuel cut at the minute. if you have the hks adjustable actuator you can turn the boost down say 1 or 2psi to stop it being so close to cut.

Ah right i see, so best thing to do is buy a boost gauge and an actuator and try adjusting it as close to fuel cut but not quite a nuf to cut it out, cheers for the help, Starlybruiser

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yeah get a guage mate straight away and see what its actually boosting too.

my mods are trd filter, decat, fmic, ect and the only form of boost control i have is the actuator. i get no creep and am running a steady 0.9ish bar. if i turn it up one more twist on the actuator it will do what yours is doing. not cut but warn of it.

what are your mods?

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yeah get a guage mate straight away and see what its actually boosting too.

my mods are trd filter, decat, fmic, ect and the only form of boost control i have is the actuator. i get no creep and am running a steady 0.9ish bar. if i turn it up one more twist on the actuator it will do what yours is doing. not cut but warn of it.

what are your mods?

Well i havent had the car too long, about 2-1/2 months and its completely standard apart from a bailey blow off valve, because at the moment im stuck for cash being an apprentice, so i was just after that extra bit of power in the first two gears while i save some money to start with the breathing mods, starlybruiser :(

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strange that its coming close to cutting with just the hi/low bypassed then.

the actuator should work and is good to have anyway as the standard actuator is pretty poor.

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strange that its coming close to cutting with just the hi/low bypassed then.

the actuator should work and is good to have anyway as the standard actuator is pretty poor.

Ok Then Mate i will save a bit of cash then buy the gauge and actuator, cheers for the help mate, appreciate it, starlybruiser :(

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