Rikardo77 Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 18 hours ago, Sam44 said: it sounds like you have a split pipe, check the pipes directly under the throttle body they go to your power steering rack. there should be 2x pipes. one goes to a pipe that's port is pre throttle flap this 1 should not affect idle the other connects to a pipe that's port is after/post throttle flap this is the culprit and will cause this issue you are explaining. there are 2x other pipes on the under side also these are coolant pipes to heat up the throttle to lean out the intake air density to achieve better mpg. you can remove these pipes from the throttle body and join them together using a joining pipe this does give performance gains. the throttle body operates at thermostatic temp 89deg you can imagine the affect on the incoming air charge. after a run pop the bonnet and try to place your hand on the throttle body WARNING!!! its hot. in this you can see how easy it is to free off the common issue of a seized idle control valve all it takes is wd40 Which hoses are the one’s to change? For a vac leak? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 (edited) the 2x pipes directly under the throttle position sensor, off center of the throttle body (on the left hand side 1x right angled pipe and 1x pipe at a 45deg angle off the throttle body) after you have refit the throttle body, do a blink code read out and see what fault codes if any are stored. you reset this by removing the efi fuse in the engine bay fuse board. Edited October 26, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rikardo77 Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 Hi thanks, so all four lines then? i have cleaned the throttle valve and is sitting better in the chamber now and bought a New ICV to pit on just incase £20.. stupid question but is fuel piping ok for the vac lines? Gonna replace all these and clean the fire wall whilst I’m there haha. I haven’t got a code reader but I’ll have a look for one. thanks for all the good advice I’m learning heaps Rik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rikardo77 Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 My setup so far.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 (edited) looking smart. very neat work on the blink code read out what you do is locate the obd socket under the bonnet and bridge out e1 and te1 terminals then count the flashes of the engine check symbol on your dash. the codes are all two digit codes. on the pipes on the throttle body there is only 2 to replace the air lines. these are on the far side of the underside of the throttle body that go to the steering rack. ill put up a picture. Edited October 26, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rikardo77 Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 I haven’t had an engine light on at all throughout. But i will give that a go when i rebuild.. to see what’s what thanks. i think i know now which you mean, if the rain holds up i can get on it tomorrow. 🤞 and thanks I’ve really enjoyed learning as i clean haha. I want to get this running well then i can get on the look and bodywork. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) your welcome. im enjoying helping, as well as the company im stuck in a hotel room at the minute. did you know the 4efte inlet cam is a good performance mod giving better mid to high end rpm torque, speed (pull). they are very easy to change out. you don't even have to remove the cam belt. it appears the difference in cam lift has only just been discovered recently, with only 2x other starlets running it. there are 2 different types of dtc (diagnostic trouble code) passive and active. its only the very serious faults that bring on the engine check lamp permanently. Edited October 27, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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