Boost controller users!

[MaccyD]

I have wired my controller in but havent plumbed it into the actuator yet.

Its a blitz dual sbc (not that i think it matters) and i know i need to splice it into the hose joining the actuator to the compressor housing. It says to keep the standard solonoide wired in but not plumbed in. Unfortunately the t-piece on the compressor housing looks to be permanently attached. Is there a tidy way i can bung/remove this hose or am i going to have to be ghetto and just stick a bolt in the end of one of the hoses. Id rather not as the controller itself is alredy mounted a bit too ghetto lol.

Thanks for any help

MaccyD

[Glanza_Ragger]

Cant you use a sharp knife and cut the hose off ? or get a fat freind to put all his weight on it and yank it off?

[ecksjay]

i didn't mess around with any of that mate, with my blitz dual-sbc.

you can completely remove the stock solenoid, unhose and remove it, then use the mounting point for your blitz dsbc solenoid - the stock one isn't needed in any way shape or form.

you dont have to splice anything in from memory, although it was a while since i've touched a starlet engine bay. i believe i just looped the actuator together, then literally ran the hoses that go into the stock actuator into the dsbc. dont think any splicing was needed, however as it is a dual port actuator setup im not entirely sure...

no, just remembered, thats right. join the actuator hoses together, then one side of the solenoid goes to the intercooler pipework (pressurised when on boost), and one end to the compressor, almost positive thats how i had mine. again, my memory is a bit vague on starlets but it is very simple.

on my s14 its literally one end to the compressor, and one end into fmic pipework, job done. much simpler.

[StarletRick]

seconded, you do not have to splice anything (except power from somewhere for the controller)

just plumb it in, plug in the loom and off you go. take the old one out and throw it far away.

all you need to do is block up the second nipple on the actuator at the rear (facing the block). what youre doing effectivly is turning a twin port actuator onto a single port.

[y3Lo]

seconded, you do not have to splice anything (except power from somewhere for the controller)

just plumb it in, plug in the loom and off you go. take the old one out and throw it far away.

all you need to do is block up the second nipple on the actuator at the rear (facing the block). what youre doing effectivly is turning a twin port actuator onto a single port.

does it make a difference which one you block off on the actuator, because I've done that except i plugged it into the nipple closest to the block and blocked the one closest.

[StarletRick]

it matters, alot.

the one closest to the block needs to be blocked. the one facing the radiator is the one you use.

[y3Lo]

it matters, alot.

the one closest to the block needs to be blocked. the one facing the radiator is the one you use.

right.. so that would explain why mines not boosting properly?

[y3Lo]

right.. so that would explain why mines not boosting properly?

by the way, how does it make a difference which one it's plugged into?

[ecksjay]

because they aren't the same nipples, its twin-port for a reason ;)

[y3Lo]

because they aren't the same nipples, its twin-port for a reason

i plugged mine into the other one and it's made no difference what so ever? still running crap.

[StarletRick]

have you blocked the one at the back off?

[y3Lo]

have you blocked the one at the back off?

yes it's been blocked off.