Fitting a rear ARB to a sportif

[Mark Edwards]

Not looked under the car to see if the bolt holes or such are there, but can i fit a rear anti roll bar to my sportif. I'm guessing i probably can but just want it confirmed. And what parts i need apart from the bar itself obviously.

[StarletRick]

you have to drill holes in your chassis to fit them. which is really quite scary.

have fun.

[Guest Enzo]

whiteline do a kit and you will need to drill into two of the rails at the bottom of the chassis, failing that there is another kit that mounts teh oposit way but i cant for the life remember the name

check out whiteline.com.au

the articles on starlets make a good read man

ps they do alot for the hanlding of starlets

[Mark Edwards]

Cheers guys. I was thinking of just grabing someones old stock one if anyone had one and start there rather than going straight to something more heavy duty. I take it that's not really possible then?

[Guest Enzo]

fwd eps never came with a rear arb as standard, part of the reason they lurch all over the place,

i have seen a stock bar on a 4x4 but it raps around teh diff

[Mark Edwards]

Me being ignorant again then as i thought the glanza's would have come with one.

So everyone that has one has had to drill the chassis rails then?

[SiCaln]

fraid so mate

you aren't thinking of strut braces are you?

[Guest Enzo]

no the other kit thats out there mounts the other way onto where the rear beam axle mounts to the chassis,

the disadvantage of this way is that you could not fit an adjustable one

[Mark Edwards]

fraid so mate

you aren't thinking of strut braces are you?

Lol, no.

[StarletRick]

those your ones dont tickle me.

there is hardly any play in them and i think they'd make them too twitchy.

the whiteline ones are tried and tested, and work really really well.

[Mark Edwards]

no the other kit thats out there mounts the other way onto where the rear beam axle mounts to the chassis,

the disadvantage of this way is that you could not fit an adjustable one

So apart from it being fixed and not adjustable is there any other disadvantage to it being that way round? Does one work better than the other because of how it mounts?

[ste91]

Hmm, interesting read here.

Is it worth the effort to fit a RARB to an N/A then? Or are you better off just stiffening up the back end of a Sportif with braces?

[StarletRick]

i said this some time ago...

"when you buy a starlet, the FIRST thing to do, is fit a rear ARB"

it stands true. it is the most cost effective and productive mod youll do on a car.

i still consider it my most worthwhile mod on my glanza, and i have many mods.

[ste91]

I had a feeling you would say that - but this drilling holes in the chassis business - is it as dodgy as it sounds?

When I finally get round to buying a RARB (and the rest of the stuff that I keep saying I'm going to buy ) I can just go to the garage that is literally two doors away from my house and get the car up on their lift

And then it's just a matter of drilling the right size holes in the right places I assume?

[Mark Edwards]

i said this some time ago...

"when you buy a starlet, the FIRST thing to do, is fit a rear ARB"

it stands true. it is the most cost effective and productive mod youll do on a car.

i still consider it my most worthwhile mod on my glanza, and i have many mods.

Having played with the suspension on many cars i can agree with this with the starlet not having one at all as standard. I can imagine the difference it must make, hence asking the original question.

[StarletRick]

the level of difference they make. is equivelant of going from stock suspension to coilovers. it really is that big of a jump. they are the win.

and as for drilling, you just line em up, take a deep breath and drill away.

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

Rick is totally right, Starlets never came with ARB's as they have unindependant rear axles unlike something like a EK9 which is. These are not the greatest designs for handling and chassis stability but they are cheaper to produce, the Starlet was never intended to be an all out racer but with some time and good thinking you can turn it into one! The WL and your rear ARB's bolt over the rear axle, you have to drill the top chassis beams to fit the bar but it's really not hard nor daunting, the mounting points are small. The most important factor is making sure they are perfectly aligned.

The fixed ones are nice and easy, the adjustable ones are ideal for the track day enthusiasts out there who want to perfect there setup for each run. Front wise stick with a 22mm, we find the 24mm promote to much understeer on the track but each person will have different preferences. Either way ace mod!

Thanks,

Toby

[Jozinobi]

The Rear ARB is an excellent addition to help improve the rear of the starlet, I run an adjustable Whiteline with the adjustment links set at medium.

The bar is 20mm thick and this is the only thickness they come in.

I found a cusco rear strut brace also helped the rear setup immensely.

Im also running an RSR Panhard Rod, C Pillar Brace and Coilovers so there is next to no bodyroll.

My EP is focused on handling and the rear is sturdier than the front so very little chance of understeer.

This is especially with the rear coilover's spring rate slightly higher than the fronts (4kg front, 6kg rear).

Here is the Whiteline Adjustable Rear ARB on my Extreme EP N/A

Here is Toy Tuning's Ultra Racing Rear ARB Example Pic

You can see the differences there between the two rarbs.

With the Whiteline item, identically spaced holes need to be drilled on either side of the rear axle.

The Ultra Racing item is covered extensively in this article by a member on TGTT >Ultra Racing Rear ARB Fitted

Here is another interesting article debating between the two Rear ARBS >your vs Whiteline

A competent mechanic should be able to do this for you, albeit yourself.

Joz