Pierro's El54 Paseo Aka Project Pi

[Paseo15psi]

Okay, for all the North American guys, T5 is the 194 bulb. I'll look into those A/C panel bulbs. I may have a source for color ones....

Sorry, T3 is 194, not sure what a T5 is, but the main gauge cluster bulbs in North America are T3/194 bulbs.

[Paseo15psi]

Ok, the A/C panel bulb is a T1, otherwise known as a #74. Here is a link to get it. http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

[Pierros]

Ok, the A/C panel bulb is a T1, otherwise known as a #74. Here is a link to get it. http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

Yes in the a/c panel I used the T1 this one and for the main gauge cluster I used again the same with three of those, but I need the actual bulb inside the a/c button.

If you see in the EPC diagram for the a/c button, the rear defroster button and rear fog lights button have some other bulbs which are apparently different the one from the other, as it gives different codes.

[Pierros]

Its been quite a while since I've made an update, so here how it will go from now on. I finally made up my mind and decided for various reasons not to go with a 4E-FTE swap and try something not so common, but in any case has been done in the past by various people in the US and various other cars around the world.

My current 5E-FE is not in the best shape ever and it “burns” 1litre of 20/50 oil per 1000km. I’ve already changed all the external gaskets and then the valve gaskets, but with no luck. So I’ve fed up with this engine and decided to move on and get some serious power…. Which means only one thing: BOOST.

Of course I’m running on a very restrictive budget (not too small, but not big either), so the main idea is to firstly run the 5e-fhe on a n/a form, ready to be boosted with “plug-n-play” parts. If the engine runs fine I’ll start collecting all the extra parts for the turbo conversion and I’m planning to run the whole setup with a full stock fhe for starters.

So I’m going to proceed with the following stages:

Stage 1: 5E-FHE SWAP

- Cynos 1st Gen (EL44) 5E-FHE engine (to be fully serviced with Toyota overhaul kit + ARP headbolts + new piston rings + new conrod/crankshaft bearings)

- OBX 4-2-1 exhaust manifold with full custom exhaust and OE cat

- K&N replacement filter (already fitted and to be changed with an Apexi induction kit that I got)

- 5e-fhe injectors

- 5e-fhe ACIS intake manifold (with piggy-back controller ecu) and throttle

- 4E-FTE distributor/ignition/upgrated spark plugs

- Magnecor 7mm (blue) spark plug cables

- EP91 Glanza engine loom and sensors (along with an ECU)

- EP91 Glanza map sensor and tps sensor

- Apex-i Power FC stand alone ecu with Power Commander (3plug EP91 4E-FTE model)

- Zeitronix O2 Wideband and EGT in custom pod

- NST ultra rare adjustable cam-gear

- 4E-FTE (ep82) oil sump with JC Project magnetic oil sump plug

- Grex/Trust oil filter relocator and oil cooler

- EL54 paseo manual gearbox/transmission

- Spec Stage 3 6puck clutch kit

The main ingredients for the success of the whole project is finding a good engine and having proper electric installation.

As soon as the new engine fires up, I’ll swap the oe ecu with the PFC (as the glanza one will never work right) and have it tuned by a PFC expert (which happens to be a close friend of mine). Hopefully with proper tuning and 100oct fuel (we have available in almost every gas station here) I’ll have a satisfying base to proceed and it will keep me happy for a while.

After that I’m going to proceed like this:

Stage 2: 5E-FHTE conversion

- Garrett T25 turbo (or similar efficiency turbo)

- Custom manifold

- Custom downpipe and exhaust with 60mm internal diameter

- Sport/Racing catalyser (200cpi)

- Front mount custom intercooler (72x18x7) with 60mm inlet/outlet

- Custom i/c piping (60mm) with silicon hose joints

- Upgrated injectors (Denso/Sard 550cc high resistance top feed)

- Sard Rising Plate Fuel Pressure Regulator

- Sard 235 Fuel Pump

- GReddy Type-S bov

Optional

- 4E-FTE custom baffled Zep spec oil sump

- Glanza gearbox/transmission

- Quaife ATB LSD (or other LSD)

Comments: I already have the items in italics.

As you have seen all the ingredients of the turbo are “plug n play” as I’ve mentioned before and can be fabricated installed with a couple of days. This is very important for me, as this is my daily driver and can’t afford to have it too long off the streets. Also being my daily driver means that it needs also to be as reliable as possible. This is why I’ll have a conservative mapping and I’m planning to work it at around 0,65-0,8 (max max) bar pressure.

If everything goes well and as planned and see that I’m not satisfied with the car I’ll proceed furthermore going for full forged internal, lower compression and raised boost pressure.

I’ll try to keep this thread update as it goes along, for the time being I’m collecting information (and parts) to proceed with the 1 stage of the project.

And some photos of the parts already got ...

So for the time being here are some parts that I gathered.

- Cynos EL44 auto 5E-FHE engine with ACIS intake manifold

- Power FC with Glanza plug-n-play harness and a new Hand Commander

- Denso 550cc high resistance top feed injectors plus a JC Project magnetic oil sump plug.

- Zeitronix Zt-2 Wideband with LCD display and extra EGT sensor and custom pod (I'll be using this also to control the ACIS manifold).

- Custom made intecooler, made in UK (72Χ18Χ7cm with 60mm inlet/outlet pipes)

- Garrett GT25 (hybrid ? ) turbo

ARP Headbolts for 4E/5E

4E-FTE oil pan

4E-FTE rocket cover

EP91 Glanza 96' (manual model) engine loom

Apex-i Power Intake induction kit

[wastegate]

Keep tuning pierros

[Mo3]

lol calm down your living my dream by i can even fall asleep to see it naa keep it up mang

[benjie]

Hi Pierros, is there a reason that you did not change the rear control arm busings as well?

I see that Super Pro sells them as well.

[riko666]

Whiteline Castor kit takes care of them

[Pierros]

Hi Pierros, is there a reason that you did not change the rear control arm busings as well?

I see that Super Pro sells them as well.

As Riko said I've changed them when I installed the WL castor/ antilift kit.

And I found some photos from them when I fitted them

[benjie]

Thanks for the answers guys. One other question, what is the difference between the 1905 and the 1888 bushings. The 1888 says 34mm and teh 1905 says 31. Do you know if its different between the EL44 and EL54?

I want to make sure that I get the right ones.

Also, when you installed the OBX Headers and downpipe, did you have the cut the down pipe? Do you have any issues with how close to the tranny it is? Any recomendations for that?

Edited April 16, 2010 by benjie

[Pierros]

Well depending the code number nothing is sure, not even the dealer knows. It depends not only from the gen and year of production, but also the range. I had to make an agreement with the authorised dealer and I got both set and returned the one that I didn't use. Just for the history mine used the 34mm one.

As for the OBX , yes it goes veeeery close to the tranny (I think it may almost contact a bolt). As for the link to the downpipe to the rest exhaust I think the shop that installed it to my car made some minor adjusting by cutting and welding (also I close the second sensor hole that the manifold has).

[benjie]

Thanks again Pierros. would you happen to have any pictures of how the pipe was cut. I actually had to swap two tranny bolts to make the down pipe fit (one had a bigger head than the other). It is very close right now and every once in a while when the car is at idle, I can hear it vibrating. I have gone to a couple of muffler shops but obviously not the right one because none have recomended cutting the down pipe. It's more of an annoyance but I want to get that taken care of. By the way, are you using the stock engine mounts are did you try the powerflex polyurethane ones? Do you feel there is a difference between dealer and aftermarket(non poly) mounts?

[Pierros]

Thanks again Pierros. would you happen to have any pictures of how the pipe was cut. I actually had to swap two tranny bolts to make the down pipe fit (one had a bigger head than the other). It is very close right now and every once in a while when the car is at idle, I can hear it vibrating. I have gone to a couple of muffler shops but obviously not the right one because none have recomended cutting the down pipe. It's more of an annoyance but I want to get that taken care of. By the way, are you using the stock engine mounts are did you try the powerflex polyurethane ones? Do you feel there is a difference between dealer and aftermarket(non poly) mounts?

Hey Bejie I had some photos since I installed the exhaust, but unfo I can't find them. If I do I'll upload them.

I had reinforced the rear engine mount myself with a polyurethane glue. And I did only the rear in order to avoid any heavy vibration.

I have been to a Glanza with Powerflex polyuretane engine mounts and they are steady as a rock, but the vibration and the rattling inside the cabin is unbearable for me!!

I personally wouldn't recommend it. The way I did it is ok and so far I have no problom with the mounts.

A good alternative is the TRD mounts which are made from reinforced heavy duty rubber and they do the job without so much compromise to comfort (but they cause some vibration). Of course their the most expensive solution...

[Guest Enzo]

nice work and interesting direction mate

[Pierros]

Due to I'm unemployed more than 8 months the new engine progress is idle for the time being.

But still I can make some small cheap improvements ( mad )

This is dry carbon look interior pieces

and some sound/heat deadening in the front doors, rear arches, rear passenger bottom and partly in the boot.

[Pierros]

Small update

[steed]

Sweet, carbon finish is awesome

[Pierros]

So finally after A LOT of patience and waiting and a stroke of luck despite my awful financial situation I managed to make the first serious performance upgrade.

As you know I've bought more than a year now a 5E-FHE engine from a 1st gen auto Cynos.

When I took it apart to inspect it I've seen that it was in quite a good shape. So with everything in bolt and pieces I've had the engine profesionally overhauled with brand new OE parts (full overhaul kit, oli/water pump, piston rings, etc) except from ACL Duroglide bearings and ARP headbolts.

Except all the above along with the new engine I made a full loom conversion from Glanza V, with a Power FC ecu for EP91 and the handheld Commander, a Zeitronix wideband with the extra EGT sensor (that I haven't installed yet) in a custom pod in the dash, 8mm Megnecor Electrosports Series spark-plug wires, Apexi Power Intake air filter and Spec Stage 3 upgrade clutch kit along with some more minor stuff.

So the car is ready now and I'm making the first (not so gentle) klm to run-in the new engine and after that I'll have the final ecu mapping along with some other details that I haven't finished, to see what this little engine can do as a n/a.

In the mean time while the car was in the shop for the swap I paint the rear tail-lights red (USDM style ) and had some 6mm spacers made for the rear wheels (I already have 7mm in the front wheels) .

The future plans are to install the stuff that are left in storage and make a light turbo conversion with a Garrett GT25 probably (yes with stock internals and n/a compression ). For the time being the updated spec list is on the first post.

Edited December 5, 2010 by Pierros

[steed]

awesome update, been far too long in the waiting. get some figures up for the N/A

[Galliano]

Always loved this motor! Always been so clean and fresh, with all the hot goodies!

Really anxious to see this running boost.

[Pierros]

Τhanks for the kind words guys. It really took me forever to get to this stage and I haven't even started yet.

I'm really anxious to see how the new engine will perform with the n/a setup and see the ACIS in work (the dyno results and experimenting on a Greek forged GT equipped with the ACIS in our last dyno session were apocalyptic to say the least...) .

Edited December 9, 2010 by Pierros

[steed]

what ever you do/happens be sure to take lots of pictures for us!

[Idrees]

Awesome progress on this, really liking the work you've done.

The C/F effect dial surround - Is it one of my old ones by any chance?

[Galliano]

I think it was custom by Pierros. I am still sporting the carbon look dial surround but the clock face went somewhat pink

[Pierros]

Awesome progress on this, really liking the work you've done.

The C/F effect dial surround - Is it one of my old ones by any chance?

Thanks for comments and I hope it goes even better from now on cause I still haven't installed the good parts!

The c/f effect dial and the rest of the interior parts are made by me . The spark-plug cables are your old ones thought

Edited December 11, 2010 by Pierros