Asad Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Gen toyota Filter- check Oil - Fail - which do i get??? (i`ve read the threads but there all enquiring about FTE`S) i want royal purple but is it a waste on a N/A? Im going to order a mag drain plug from somewhere?its been approx 3k since it was changed, do i run it too 4k n then change??? there`s 73k on the clock now....im going to check the level tomorrow i put a tad extra in when it was changed. i will find out if its been burning oil or not tomorrow (fingers crossed) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-gtturbo Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Well, I wouldn't waste the money on the likes of Royal Purple on an N/A personally, I'd get a bog standard 10w40, you'll see no noticable gains using anything special.The fte's use a more specialist oil because of the temperatures associated with a turbocharged car (namely, the temp of the turbo itself when under load). They break it down more easily and more quickly, and therefore need more common oil changes and higher quality oils are recommended.I'd get a Castrol GTX 10w-40, cheap and cheerful mate Available widely (motor factors, halfrauds etc)Also, there is no need to run to 4k, you can change it whenever. I'm not sure on the facts, but as said, the turbo cars change every 3k, so I reckon you'll get a fair bit more out it, without the turbo to break it down As for oil burning. Its perfectly normal to loose some oil between services, its just an aspect of running a car Only start to worry if it smokes, leaks, or needs top-ups between services Hope this helps you mateDave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 wicked........normal oil,ill change it at 4-4.5k (get my loan by then ha!), any idea where to get the sump plug ebay jobbie?thankyou, asad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-gtturbo Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 I'm sure that'll do it no harm (that mileage!)As for the sump plug, like you said eBay is probably the best (cheapest + easiest) way to get one Glad to help mateDave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 The engine oil being a little low does not mean to say it is burning it. We have found that the 4E-FE engine is generally fairly heavy on oil when giving it some. I check and top up mine every two weeks, and under some cases every few days.Also, while we are on topic, I have just serviced mine using 15w 40 oil. Will I be okay using that? The shop I bought the oil recommended this for my car and the way I drive it, but I need more views on it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bourkey Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 I change my oil every 3000 miles being a turbo. When i had the n/a engine it was every six months. I used simple GTX Magnatec with it as well. Not amazing stuff but not crap stuff neither. Give us a shout if you want a hand. Bring it round to mine to do it if you want.Bourkey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-gtturbo Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Yup, for an N/A a 10w40 would be ok Castol GTX is as good as any! Idrees - A 15w40 will provide the same warm protection as any w40 oil. However, when its cold, it'll be harder to circulate and cause less cold start (short journey) protection.I would switch to a 10w40 at least mate, of a good brand Personally, I use a 0w40 oil. This allows an excellent cold start protection (I do mostly short journeys) as it stays relatively thin when cold (not nearly as thin as when warm, and only as thin as any other w40 oil when warm). Mobil 1 0w40. However, I really keep an eye on the levels, as the older cars can sometimes have a tendancy to burn a lot off. I wouldn't recommend this for a high mileage engine though.For peace of mind and ease of use, get a semi-synth 10w40 Idrees Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-gtturbo Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 As a rough guide...0w405w4010w4015w40 Are all the same viscosity when fully warmed up. The difference in the first number simply highlights the viscosity when cold - The lower the number, the thinner the oil and the easier to circulate it will be. A larger difference between the two numbers highlights that is has mode additives, to give this effect. It is important therefore to maintain a good service schedule, or these additives will burn off and promote a sludgy buildup Its also very important to highlight, that even a 0w40 oil is nowhere near as thin when cold as any w40 oil is when warm. Hope this helps you all a little Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 righty`o 10w40 it is, which sump plugthishttp://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...ficial%26sa%3DNorhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-JC-PROJECT-Oil-S...%3A1|240%3A1318we normally put 15w40 into diesels which come in.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Very helpful as usual Dave, top man. I'll leave you some rep on TGTT. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-gtturbo Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 The first link is a bit dodgyhttp://www.tbdevelopments.com/catalog/prod...products_id=101 ^ Is the actual link Its 6 and half a dozen to be honest mate, its up to you Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-gtturbo Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Very helpful as usual Dave, top man. I'll leave you some rep on TGTT. No bother, its a pleasure as always Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 its 6 n a whatdidi what what??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 As Dave mentioned about sludge - when I had my engine flushed and oil changed, there was a significant increase in performance, so I think I might of had some slugde before it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 Im not going to bother as hes getting on abit n i dont want anything to leak, knock etc.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Not going to bother? :S what are you on about Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-gtturbo Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 In my opinion, unless your totally confident you have an engine which is in fantastic condition, and definetely doesn't have pieces of sludge blocking leaks or damaged seals/gaskets, there is no need to use an oil flush...Perhaps a little over protective, but it is the other side of the arguement! I haven't and wouldn't use an oil flush in mine personally. I stick to good synthetic oil, and regular changes! I know you can't make up for poor previous owners and that, but better safe than sorry!One more little thing, the frequency of oil changes is much more important than using a top class oil Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 @ ste with regards to the oil flush matei checked the oil today n it hasn`t moved at all still where i filled it to.....when i changed it i put some flush in n ran it for about 15-30 secs n the oil press light used to turn off that quick you had to be fast to see it now its there for 1-2 secs n then disappears. I might do the same just 30secs-1min thats all - just worried about knocking n any leaks which may start.which sump plug is better?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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