BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 help me please!Right, when i accelerate the car jaults and the acceleration is not smooth.the car still revs right round and cruises fine at a constant speed/rev.Any change in throttle movement the car seems to struggle. Although, if i open the throttle all the way it revs up smooth.i can try and explain it, its asif the engine is being fed the incorrect air/fuel mix through the rev range, so you can imagine the engine stutters and misses.where is the air flow sensor? (if it has one)I found the idle control, throttle position and a sensor which is in the air box which i think is an air temp sensor?Completly standard other than TRD leads.Any help would be awsome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 When was it last serviced? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 I havent got the documents with me and im not sure what was included in the service.But is going for one soon.What are you thinking?oil change,sparkplugs,filter etc? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Yep all the above. And maybe a new oil filter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 do these combined really have such a dramatic effect? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Yeah do the lot. Apart from HT leads obviously seeing as you have got them already.spark plugsdistributor caprotor armoil flush and changeoil filtercheck air filter; change if it's dirtyAnd yes the sensor in the airbox is just a temp sensor, there is another sensor though in the top left hand side of the engine bay coming off the inlet mani. The car will run like a bag of shit if that isn't connected as Asad will tell you. You should notice a big difference, worn out parts take away performance and fuel economy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 Thankyou ever so much!il have it sorted out. oh and il have a look for that sensor as it may be dirty or disconnected. worth a look.Il perhaps leave the air filter for now as i havent thought of my induction setup yet (replace air filter or buy induction kit etc)again thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 That sensor shouldn't be dirty or anything as there's a one-way thing between the pipe, it's like a little circle thing. Just make sure it hasn't come off.And for the air filter, I have a cone filter on mine (I have replaced the piping aswell) and it has made a nice improvement over the standard airbox, rolla mani helps alot too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 ok cool, i have a rolla mai in my garage, but need to clean/spray/fit it.do you not suffer from heat soak?Im either thinking the BMC CDA or some sort of cone filter with cold air feeds. what did you change the piping too?As i would Ideally like soild induction pipe relocating hte air filter to the front bumper somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 I just bought some pipe off ebay, 76mm diameter, about a foot long with a 45 degree bend.I have made use of the standard airfeed pipe, I'm thinking of getting a length of flexible pipe though coming from behind the front bumper or something.The original plan was to move the radiator over slightly and have the filter sat right behind the bumper, but considering some of the puddles I've been through I'm glad I didn't. Heat soak hasn't been a problem.One thing I have noticed though is there is a very slight flatspot somewhere in the mid-low of the rev range, but for this is more than made up for by a high end gain, once you get to 4k rpm it fucking takes off lol. Aslong as the airfeed pipe isn't too long then a BMC CDA would probably be better. I just went for the cheap option I spent about £50 altogether, not bad for an air filter, pipe, and silicone reducer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 thats cool mate,i might have a look on ebay for some of that pipe!thanks for all the help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Toby@ToyTuning.com Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 As above sounds ignition related, check your spark plugs, HT leads, distributor cap, rotor arm and coil lead. Remove the spark plugs and check the condition, if unsure post some pictures up. With the bonnet scoop it can sometimes allow water to get into the spark plugs wells but if it's NA then this won't be the case. It's still worth checking to see if there is any corrosion when looking down the wells. Remove the distributor cap and make sure all the contacts are clean with no white residue. Make sure the rotor arm spins freely and that all the leads are securely attached both spark plug end, distributor end and coil pack end.As ste91 mentioned make sure the NA temp sensor is connected otherwise it will run rich as hell sapping performance and ruining fuel economy.T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Yup the map/maf? sensor....its the smallest tube ever in the whole of the engine bay but bloody hell! the car jumped around everywhere while being driven....also check you vacume pipe to the fuel rail its another easily forgotten thing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 Brilliant, thanks lads.oil light came on today... checked my oil and it was way below the Low marker...WTF, i checked it last week. I had no raise in temperature over the past few days so i dont think it has taken a permanent effect on the engine....i hope.Topped up now, and the engine still performs as it did...lumpy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Not noticed any patches of oil where you've been parked have you? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 nope clean as a whistle.Im going to watch it like a hawk from now on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Got a spare few quid? I'd give all the parts a good check over and replace anything that's worn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 If its not leaking.......only thing is its drinking it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Toby@ToyTuning.com Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Could just be a worn engine what is the mileage? Sound advice Ste top work.. T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 Ste: indeed i have, i would check them now but i havent got the tools with me at the mo.What size was your reducer for the induction pipe? just browsing ebay at the moment.asad:thats what im thinking... rings or valve stem seals... EEP. But il see how it goes from now on.Toby: its only on 62k! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Valve stem seals....the "e" series engines only problem whats the colour of the exhaust fumes? mileage? weight of oil you are using? 10w40 seems best anything lighter it could be burning it?Edit: seems a tad premature for them to go....usually around the 100k mark or so Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Pipe was 76mm and reducer was 57-76 or something like that, the size of the throttle body is 55mm, but silicone is nice and squishy so it doesn't matter if you're slightly off by a few mm. Also make sure to get some decent clips.I also bought a straight 76-76mm connector thinking I'd need one but the filter went straight onto the pipe... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 I havent had a look at the fumes, but im sure my mates would have let me know it theres any blue smoke.its done the best half of 62K and today i topped up with 5w-30 as thats all i had, to get me through the next week or so, as il try get it serviced next weekend.What are the correct plugs for the 4e?il try pick some up midweek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAZ2CRAZY Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 Pipe was 76mm and reducer was 57-76 or something like that, the size of the throttle body is 55mm, but silicone is nice and squishy so it doesn't matter if you're slightly off by a few mm. Also make sure to get some decent clips.I also bought a straight 76-76mm connector thinking I'd need one but the filter went straight onto the pipe... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 NGK are best, iridium ones if you can afford it...otherwise normal ones are ok Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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