boost

[turbo_time]

hi can anybody tell me the safest boost i can run with a top mount intercooler my gauge is in BAR and im running 0.5 at the moment cheers jason

[beatz]

i run 1bar of boost mate with tmic and its fine.

[NeilH]

how do you turn up the boost on these little cars anyway???

[lobotomy]

you'll hit fuel cut before then anyway. To get around that you need an FCD (fuel cut defencer) but then it's only tricking your ECU into thinking you're running less boost -- so you can end up detonating and burning holes in pistons and stuff.

[turbo_time]

so before i start turning up the boost im guessing i should get a piggy back or after market ecu ?

[Guest Enzo]

yea totaly, a gready emanage is the most suitable id say,

then you dont have to piss about with a rrfpr, fcd etc,

good value atabout 300 od pounds,

[Glanza_Ragger]

as the guys have said, i wouldnt just fit a bleed valve and crank the boost up.

unless you wanna say bye bye to your pistons and a big hello to a hole in your block lol

sort out the fueling (pump,injectors,rrfpr)

sort out the fuel cut either with a piggy back or standalone or just fit a fcd if you want fancy mapping the ecu

1.2bar is probably the max on a standard ct9 and as i said, im sorting out fueling, cooling etc before i get an electronic bc

[Simon]

Because of the size of the CT9 anything over 1 bar it just turns into a heat pump and you will never get any more power however much boost you run.

All this "bleed valves are shit" is bollox a good bleed valve is as good as any Electronic boost controller as they do the same thing. I ran a Dawes device for over a year holding a CT9 at one 1 and nver had boost creep or a spike once it's all down to fitment.

Running 1 bar on a CT9 should never need a fuel pump, a FCD and a rising rate fuel pressre regulator setup up on a rolling road will be fine.

The Emanage is good but £300 is only the start fitting costs and mapping will easy double that figure.

Simon

[Glanza_Ragger]

sorry chap, but i think your wrong.unless you have an electronic boost solenoid controlling the boost itll never be accurate or safe.the boost pressure can rise and drop, and will do with a bleed valve type. electronic solenoids adjust to suit, they can also be set up with a safety cut so if you do get a boost spike, itll sort it.

bleeed valves are a cheap and easy option, but its cheaper to get an electronically controlled one than a new turbo or internals.

[Guest Enzo]

blled valves are reliable and dont pose a single danger to your car if used right, theres all this spectualition that they are ounreliable or unsafe, if you use it within the confines of safe peramiters they are fine, and reprisent great value compared to some of these digital controlers,

the only downside i can se is thwat the temptaion will always be there to turn the nob upwards,

rrpr,and fcd is a crude way to making more power,

up here i have a mate that will fit and road tune my emanage for a very decent price, he has abit of a manopily up here, but all in you might be looking at 450 for buying fitting and a really good tune.

that 45o buy itself without any other mods reprisents great value for money . and a possible 20-30 bhp increase alone

[Glanza_Ragger]

if you fit a bleed valve for instance, and set it up at a bar, then get a slight boost spike for instance, then what?i totally agree with something like an emanage,

a adjustable fuel pressure reg and a fuel cut defencer along with a bleed valve is bhp on a budget, at a cost

[paulgtt]

i got a forge bleed valve for 23 quid from motor world not long ago and its perfectly fine.im running at just under 0.8bar,i think this must be just under fuel cut point.

[Guest daveburwash]

There is quite a diffrence between a bleed valve and a decent manual controller like the Dawes. The gated manual controllers are 100% safe and reliable

[turbo_time]

well thanks for all the help guys i think i know what to buy now cheers