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Ep91 Engine Limits (boost Wise)


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hey folks,

had a ep82 year back sold but regreted,

bought a ep91 now tht im going to spend time and money on,

looking for over 200BHP

engine spec will be,

hks exhaust system,

decat,

front mount,

standard turbo,

air filter,

will be fitting a Fuel pressure reg and a FCD,

setting the boost at 16psi ish ?

with the internals/injectors/turbo be good or is this pushing it to much ?

cheers for any info

sean

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16psi will kill your turbo. standard ct9 can handle about 1 bar (14.5 psi ) max . hyrbids are capable of 1.3 bar though (about 19 psi)

internals will handle 200bhp

not sure on injectors.

also. fitting an fpr and fcd is meant to be the bad way to go about things. better to get a decent ecu too. I run an hks fcd and rrfpr with an hkd fcon ecu and gcc piggyback and from what i know thats decent.

People feel free to correct any of this info.

Russell

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16psi will kill your turbo. standard ct9 can handle about 1 bar (14.5 psi ) max . hyrbids are capable of 1.3 bar though (about 19 psi)

internals will handle 200bhp

not sure on injectors.

also. fitting an fpr and fcd is meant to be the bad way to go about things. better to get a decent ecu too. I run an hks fcd and rrfpr with an hkd fcon ecu and gcc piggyback and from what i know thats decent.

People feel free to correct any of this info.

Russell

its not the bad way of doing it, just the cheaper option and it doesnt allow as fine a tune. if its done properly you will rarley here of some1 causing damage due to it.

as for running 16 psi i say go for it lol it will be fun (while it lasts)

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my mate about 2 years ago, ran 176 whp on the stadard ct9 with an emanage, so it can be done with a proper tune,

the RRFPR FCD will be a fine setup, i have a mate with a gt who run around 193 fly power, with that setup, no fuel controller nothing, just had it set up correctly at a bar of boost so it can be done

only thing i would watch for is the ep91 conrods are not as strong as the GT ones, i await people arguing there is no proof etc, but they aint there made from the same material, yet ther not as thick, therefor there not as strong, end off lol

i will have a RRFPR and HKS FCD setup(i would have this one over JAM/GREDDY as they cut after the fuel cut, where as the HKS reduced the voltage output over the whole range, so done properly with a RRFPR and a SAFC to bring the fuel back, it will keepthe car fueling within stable AFR range over the whole range, whereas the jam greddy etc, only cut over the fuel cut level, so below the fuel cut, in theory, they will run lean, which is never good

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The jam/greddy ones don't affect the Fuelling under fuelcut, only over it they start to lean it out..I don't like the hks ones as the lean it out over the whole rev range..

Also if you know what your doing with the safc you

can run over fuel cut without an fcd

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The jam/greddy ones don't affect the Fuelling under fuelcut, only over it they start to lean it out..I don't like the hks ones as the lean it out over the whole rev range..

Also if you know what your doing with the safc you

can run over fuel cut without an fcd

yeh, its pretty hard though aint it, you have to fuel it right out, then use the SAFC to bring it right back, suppose you have to be clued up on the usage of it, they do it on the aus starlet club form what i have seen

the hks one is easier to sort out though, as its the whole rev range your adjusting the fuelling, the jam etc you only have over the fuel cut to try bringing it back

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hey guys,, thanks for all the input,

what yous rekon power wise a bar of boost with a ct9 stock internals, stock injectors with the above mods and a jam fcd and fpr?

dont use the car day to day its only for fun so could do with a cheap fastish car

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You wont get near 200bhp with that setup, for starters include a better exhaust manifold on that list also if your going to run 1.1bar expect to be investing in a new clutch and brake setup aswell as a new turbo

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You wont get near 200bhp with that setup, for starters include a better exhaust manifold on that list also if your going to run 1.1bar expect to be investing in a new clutch and brake setup aswell as a new turbo

well spotted mate, i didnt even notice that, even turn the boost up a bit and expect the 3rd piston/cyl to go bang,

the way I've herd people talk about fcd and rrfpr setup made me think it was way bad :thumbsup: guess not.

i noticed that on ere mate, i think a few people on this site said it was shit, and then all the rest that dont know very much jumped on the bandwagon, and said its shit etc, there aint nothing wrong with the FCD/ RRFPR setup properly aslong as its accompanied with a FMIC mani, Boost gauge, adjust actuator, and if you have the extra, a wideband for fuel checking, or an SAFC, just an emanage/preset or apexi unit would be much better

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well spotted mate, i didnt even notice that, even turn the boost up a bit and expect the 3rd piston/cyl to go bang,

i noticed that on ere mate, i think a few people on this site said it was shit, and then all the rest that dont know very much jumped on the bandwagon, and said its shit etc, there aint nothing wrong with the FCD/ RRFPR setup properly aslong as its accompanied with a FMIC mani, Boost gauge, adjust actuator, and if you have the extra, a wideband for fuel checking, or an SAFC, just an emanage/preset or apexi unit would be much better

Just out of curiosity, why 3rd cylinder?

Damien

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the way I've herd people talk about fcd and rrfpr setup made me think it was way bad :thumbsup: guess not.

remember you have a hks fcon aswell so your running a piggy back.

FCD and FPR are alright but are very very limited with adjustability...well i wouldn't really say there was any, all you can adjust is the rrfpr to run richer or leaner by like 0.1 of a bar at a time.

if hunting for big power do it the right way with a piggyback or standalone.

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Just out of curiosity, why 3rd cylinder?

Damien

there's a restriction in the theird runner were the stud of the mani is... it's like as lump inside that takes up almost half the runner, very bad design on Toyota's behalf.

this can cause excessive heat build up in the chamber and incorrect exhaust flow when running more then stock boost.

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  • 1 month later...

just thought i had. i have a td04 on my glanza its running 235bhp at the fly and 198 at the wheels and i have not had any problem with the at all and it still on standard interals. the standard internal will take 250bhp all day long but you can push them up to 300mbhp have seen this done. they will take it but they will not lasted very long. 250bhp the max if you use the car all day long and every day. i would say not to go over 1 bar of boost you can push the boost up to 1.3 but i would say stay to 1 or 1.1 bar any more you are asking for troble on standard internals. the gear box i told is good for 350bhp before you have to think of getting any thing done to it. i hope this helps alot of people out. of might had make sure you have the right mods for the horse ower you are going to run.

put it this way wrong mod engine goes bang!!!!

right mods engine will love you.

make sure you service and change your engine oil every 3 to 4 months if you can this will keep the car healthy. i use 10/40.

gear box 75/90

its going to have a mani sorry i never put tht down,

when I've fitted the mods I've chosen i let you guys no when its been RR

cheers

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