steed Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 well here's what i've been working on this morning, it has a few teetching problems, namely it sound like one cylinder isn't firing, any one any ideas, and don't say air leak, i've chased my miles of piping already. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whiteglanzav Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 tidy ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LukeH Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Are all throttle bodies opening. i asume it was fine before you put them on? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 yeah, it ran well before i fitted them all throttle bodies are operating correctly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Can the throttle bodies be used as down draught?Possible fueling issue though, how does the plug look from that cylinder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LukeH Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 yea i would say fueling then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 not able to use as down draught, they are just throttle bodies, no injector or carbs. i'f using standard in head injectors (smells pretty rich too, a little sooty) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
llawgoch Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 how is your map sensor piped up. u need to connect a feed from every runner of the inlet manifold onto it, u need to have all four cylinders conected to it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 cured! problem was a mixture of things. i have a small reservoir to smooth out the pulsing vacuum but it has a filter or valve in it screwing up the MAP sensor, removed it and then it ran better. also the FPR was plumbed into where it goes normally however i realised that with itb it's only reading pressure from number 1 cylinder (big mistake). plumbed it in and smoothed it out some more. i still need a proper reservoir to flatten out the idle but it's sounds a lot healther now. looking forward to getting it going when it's stopped raining. on a run up to scotland this evening.pics to follow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LukeH Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 how does it sound bud? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 so here is it running properly:and here's a few pics of just what was involved in converting the 5E to ITB's today:firstly had to get some itb's and build it up (build thread to follow at later date)here is a couple of pics of the number of air lines involved, its quite a few:here is where i relocated the inlet air temperature sensor:here was one of the harder bits: i had to fabricate and ICV utilising the old one so that i could keep it plug in and play.the icv filters seperately and is now located far away hidden just inside the passenger wing between the fuse box:here is the finished article complete with jap spec air filters whilst i wait from some mini cones to arrive:here is the finished set up, you can just about see every part of the conversion: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 You have silicon on the NPT fittings on the inlet manifold??? You pikey get some PTFE tape on them! Ah i didnt realise you wer running stock injector locations etc.Well done on the conversion though, doing something diffirent is always more rewarding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 You have silicon on the NPT fittings on the inlet manifold??? You pikey get some PTFE tape on them! lol! there's a layer of PTFE tape under the silicone, the gunk was for extra assurance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Well done on getting it working, I'm guessing you are on the standard ECU aswell?One thing though, I don't know wether it's just the video but it looks like the silicone pipes are being "sucked in" when you rev the engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daz27gt Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 i was just about to say the samething re:silicon pipe being sucked in.that is deffo a no no.also on your inlet where you have cut the top off .how have you finished the end of the inlet runners?because if that has a step in it it will deffo be robbing you of power.my dad had probs like this on his v8 running 4x48 webbers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 i was just about to say the samething re:silicon pipe being sucked in.that is deffo a no no.also on your inlet where you have cut the top off .how have you finished the end of the inlet runners?because if that has a step in it it will deffo be robbing you of power.my dad had probs like this on his v8 running 4x48 webbershmm, that is very much the case, i have tapered the original inner diameter but it's a little stepped. i mah have to look into a better arrangement. and probably some kind of aftermarket ECU (everything is standard except the inlet manifold! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LukeSR Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Them silicone pipes are being sucked in like a mo fo!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daz27gt Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 There's a company my dad used,they machined the end so they looked like bell mouths did a really good job,and I don't think it was that expensive.I will find out who did it if you want? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daz27gt Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Think it was head tune that did work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 7, 2010 Author Share Posted August 7, 2010 cheers for that, i'll look them up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 Latest Update, re jigging the 'tap off' lines and i think i've nailed the correct setup. my most recent mistake was leaving the crank case breather connected to the intake manifold lines. i'm all for crankcase breathing and agreed that yes it's better to have the vapours sucked out then to leak out after the pressure built up. however due to the high vacuum caused from the ITB setup i was actually leaking air in through my breather, into the rocker cover and through into the manifold. this caused my MAP sensor to read partially open when the TPS read shut. having re plumbed that the response is a lot more lively through out the rev range as it's no longer running uber rich for an N/A.also worth noting for those that intend to run N/A E-series engines. alot of people complain about how the standard valve springs are no good for higher revving applications. well this might be true if you're trying to enter 4A-GE territory but for up to 8000 the standard ones shouldn't prove to be a problem. the evidence i use to back up my claim is that the higher revving 5E-FHE engine (redline at 7400) uses exactly the same valve springs (identical part numbers, both compression spring: 13711C-90504‑34001 and the retainer: 13741-13741‑16010) as those found in any 5E/4E head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steed Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 steed this is loking pimp buddy! you coming jae?provided i can get the time off work (and what her indoors says) i'm hoping so though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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