TrisK Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 i have a starlet glanza that is running 1 bar of boost with a HKS actuator, air filter and blitz exhaust.I have a JAM fcd to stop me from hitting fuel cut.obviously this means that at higher boost i am probably running lean.for this reason i am weighing up getting a RRFPR, again a piggyback ecu/standalone ecui live in Guernsey in the Channel Islands, which means any RR or professional mappers are a boat ride, and a long drive away. for this reason i would need a 'learning' ECU or something that would give me enough to still be able to safely drive without a map.can anyone outline advantages/disadvantages/costs/recomended products/availabilty of said product for each of the following ideas:1. RRFPR(Standard Injectors + ECU + JAM Racing FCD)2. Piggyback ECU3. Standalone ECUI really dont knwo what to do! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Russleh Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 for running a bar most people will say standalone such as a blitz , jam ecu because its plug n play so no need for a rolling road. about 500 sheets but probably the cheapest and safest option taking into consideration the traveling costs to get to a mapper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Qglanz Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 The JAM Fcd wont run you lean i hed it and it will keep giving you fuel till where the map sensor can read and if your running only 1 bar you don't really have to go to for a piggy back or standalone you can just get a good fuel pomp and fpr piggyback for light mods and tune and standalone for heavy mod and tune Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 i read it will run me lean as it 'tricks' the ecu into thinking you are running less boost than you are (so it doesnt cut), this means the ecu fuels for the level of boost it 'thinks' you are running. which is lean (as you are boosting higher than it realises)is this not right?So JAM ecu is about 500 quid.how easy are they to get hold of?If i was to go for a RRFPR how much is that? and would i need to replace hte injectors? (My mate said, that 'even if the fuel pressure is higher, if the injectors are shut you are still going to run lean', is that true) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_cl Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 The JAM Fcd wont run you lean i hed it and it will keep giving you fuel till where the map sensor can readYeah 0.85 bar so it will fuel fine till then... what happens after? you run the risk of running lean as thats all the ecu is fueling for. (luckily the japs mapped these cars on the rich side anyway so most engines will survive from slight lean afr's)Personally mate i would get a rrfpr to tide you over, the hunt for a jam/blitz etc ecu may take a while so good to be safe for the time being. the rrfpr is fine on its own the injectors are more then capable of upto 200bhp. also when do injectors shut? they would be on a constant duty cycle... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bucketep91 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 so your running 1bar with an fcd with no fueling mods?get out and turn your boost down until you have some form of management or its gonna pop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 well its a 0.99kg/cm2 according to my turbo timer (peak), it stablies on the guage about 0.9kg/cm2 . which is about 1 bar isnt it?i presume i have a HKS actuator (i cant really see, but it is definately threaded, and looks like an HKS, although i cant see the end to see the logo) but im guessing creap wouldnt take me that high, would it?Also it came from Japan like that (so its not some pikey that has turned it up) as i am the 1st UK owner, and i have had it a year, and she is 100% fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bucketep91 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 just under 1bar.have you checked your ecu? you could already have a jam/blitz 1if not id want to have the fueling checked Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_cl Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 this:http://www.rhdjapan.com/sard-standard-type...ite-black-55194some fuel lines and clips and your sorted, till you find what you want ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 If I have a a FCD then surely I can't have an aftermarket ecu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 You never know, I've heard of it before I'm sure Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 well just took these here is a pretty standard looking ecu, right?and just ftr, here is a picture of my actuator arm, you can see where it is threaded oin the right hand side: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 has anyone got any recomendations of Blitz vs JAM ecu?Also, do all JAM/Blitz ECUs have the same map/set up?As in did they all leave the factory teh same and then they "learn" to your car/driving style? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_cl Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 has anyone got any recommendations of Blitz vs JAM ecu?Also, do all JAM/Blitz ECUs have the same map/set up?As in did they all leave the factory teh same and then they "learn" to your car/driving style?No not at all buddy, alot of the ecu's where different.they all have a chip in which jam/blitz then mapped the car on... some are mapped for a ct9, some are mapped for a hybrid, some i sure where mapped in japland for bigger turbos as i'm sure the japs didn't just stick to hybrids as upgrades.as to which one you get when you find a jam/blitz/mines/sard ecu its impossible to say unless you perhaps RR and log the fueling and results.I wouldn't say they 'learn' but they do adapt slightly to your individual set upEDIT: and yeah thats a stock ecu, the actuator is adjustable and is probably hks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 is there any way to tell what they were mapped for?a code or sticker or anything? or just look at the car it came out of? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_cl Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 at this stage in the ecu's life i doubt you would be able to tell... it has a basic map which will have changed from then due to being in so many cars and adjusting.some of them run alot richer then others... these will likely to be the ones that where originally mapped for a bigger turbo or hybrid.why would you want to no anyway? as long as find a manual one for a ep91 your fine . Also i dont think there are any codes to indicate what its mapped for unfortunately mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 well the plan is to buy one that is not going to make me run lean.so i could get something mapped for 0.1 bar of boost and then it runs lean anywayor one that advances timing too much, then bye bye ringlands..oh this is far too complicated haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_cl Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 any jam/blitz/mines/sard etc plug and play ecu for the ep91/ep82 wont run you lean or advance the timing to much mate.if you see one for your car my advice is just get it, dont worry about everything you just said as it wont happen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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