4EFTE/4EFE Hybrid???

[The Toffinator]

Just having a little think, to build a high compression N/A could i use the internals and head out of a EFTE and put them into the EFE with a skimmed head and a high revlimit? or however else it could be done?

May be daft but i was interested lol

Thanks

[The Toffinator]

No one have any idea? even a EFTE with EFE bits on it?

[siren676]

I thought that the fte had a lower comp ratio so using the internals would have a negative effect. Also the 4efte head is identical to the 4efe head apart from slightly stiffer valve springs.

[joel_ep91]

im building a fully forged high compression 4efe, im just waiting on my custom pistons to be made then the engine will be ready to build

[The Toffinator]

Look forward to seeing the results mate, and yeh knew the difference in the heads, just wondered if an EFTE could be made hi comp N/A

[micky boy]

What would be the point in takeing a 4efte engine apart (which is a low comp engine anyway) and makeing it hi comp?..you may aswell just take your na engine out and go 4efte ;) orr what you can do is use 4efte rods which are thicker then na rods along with 4efte head, throttle body, inlet, ect but even then you still wont make the same power as a turbo would.

[The Toffinator]

Only because i can get one for cheap and its not like major moding, dad wont let me turbo it anyway or it would have happened by now:P and was just thinking as im competent enough at semi stripping one to make it higher comp. as long as its over 100hp and revs like feck then i would be happy!

[nastyrash 2003]

think u got the wrong end of a very large stick mate, i see wat your getting at the turbo pistons are flat top, which is much better for proformance gains than the domed N/A and much lighter. but increasing comp ratio will cause a loss in torque and increase in hp, so it will rev quicker but u can not move that imiter up with out stronger valve springs, balanced everything crank, rods pistons, lightening everything. which is pure N/A tunnng but the gains will be miner compard to a turbo.

the steps i would go if i was u would be to put throttle bodies on lighten the flywheel and front pully, advance ignition timing by a little, and increase valve over lap with a adjustable pully.

if you still want to go high compresstion u will need nock control, as cylinder temps will increase leading to detonation and engine failer. wat u do is go flat top like u said then skim around .6mm off the head and get the TRD .4mm head gasket i recon should put your comp ratio around 10:1 but do all measurments first and get it band on. thr is not much quench on this engine as the cylinder squish band is no existant, which is awsome for full throttle conditions and bad for cruise economy, M.O.T emmisions, and them newsence hot stall gases on the outer edge of the fuel mix (really bad for causing detonation). u might also need to run a fuel mix to increase octane, and stop the nock control retarding that ignition on every full throttle aplication.

hope this gives u a in sight pal

chris

[lukEp]

Micky the na rods and turbo rods are the same, just the mk1 Gt had thicker rods

[nastyrash 2003]

stick with the N/A rods or get som light wieght I beam. stronger rods will not be needed for N/A tunning if u keep it under around 150hp. the idea is to thn push your rev range by balancing and de wighting all engine internals, think about it more rev range more hp. simples

but in all honesty mate do not waste your time on this engine the valve configerastion and combustion chamber set up does not suit N/A proformance or high comp ratios, u will see alot better gains from the 1.6 16v. this has 45deg opposed cams which in turn leads to a pent roof chamber and 45 deg entry and exit of ports.

i have seen to many 4e engines with damaged piston ring land and its on the opposite side to the flat roof exhaust valve. this tells me that thr is more presure being put on the front edge of the pistons uneven loading, and have heard of people getting bad piston slap also points to this problem.

as micky said it aint hard to hit 100ps i recon. just put the turbo mani and TB on and the 5e exhaust or corrola, bigger injectors and a few other little mods and u will hit that magic figure trust me.

[The Toffinator]

Was waiting for your reply chris! thanks alot for that, had a word with my dad and he mentioned about damaging ringlands etc, and more pressure being put on the wrong bits etc, so i think the best way to go like you said is the injectors etc.

Only thing is i cant see how the turbo inlet manifold is better than the corrolla one, and how much extra air its actually getting? as surely its getting as much as it needs or am i wrong? IE when it has the bigger injectors and a better exhaust, will my setup be too restrictive?

Thanks mate!

[nastyrash 2003]

anything is possible fella, the first job wen doing these builds is to lok at wat engines can be tunned to wat extent. i have seen the 1.6 16v N/A engine taken to 290hp at 9200rpm. no joke.

as for the inlet, the turbo inlet can push som pretty impresive hp. which means that it does well not to restrict air flow into the engine. if this is not the case why do the V lads not put the roller mani on, have u ever seen a turbo runnibg that mani??. so why not it gives i better bottom end.

the answer is simple the turbo mani is the best 4e mani for not restricting booste presure (which is + presure)100%+volumetric eff or cylinder VF. the corrola 4e 93 on had a turbo mani fitted as standard (this was the first 4e engine i came across and started the lov afiar) with a very small TB, now when ever u see a very small TB u know that the ristriction lies thr. so change it for instant power gains.

the starlet and corrola with different mani have large TB just 5mm under the turbo. so this tells me the restriction lies either in the inlet mani or like the citron and pug, a tapperd intake ducting, and im affraid its in the mani the very small plenum chamber and long runners give it away. i can not tell u how bad this mani is the plenum is far to small. wen i saw it i was angry at mr toyota!!!!.

just put the mani on and u will not look back the difference is noticable so u know from that u getting arond +10-15 hp as well as great torque gains. win win win. this frees the main restriction out. so just thn go for all the other little 1s, exhaust, cams, porting and polish, ignition+earthing, fueling.

a carr off the production line is made as cheap as possable. u can improve on everything.

but yesterdays race engine are todays road engines, the reason is power to weight for good fuel consumption, and emmisions :relating to high comp ratios needed (high cylinder temps to burn carbon) which in turn needs stronger engine parts (forged bits).

hope that all makes sence mate

chris.

p.s thr is no piont putting bigger injectors on the roller mani as the top end air flow just is not thr to require extra fuel. bigger injectors flow higher meaning u get more top end. and the turbo mani will not just give u top end hp gains but will totaly redifine the power band in the rpm range. if u stay with the starlet TB on the turbo mani you will get slightly better bottom end torque with a small loss top end hp (in ref to the turbo mani with the turbo TB) i would guess to see on the rollers, so this set up would suit smaller windey tracks. and tracks with long straights use the turbo TB, and gearbox. or the best of both worlds der i say 6 speed FTW.

[The Toffinator]

Mate your info is fantastic, i am going to have a go at this and see what i can improve myself, I think my plan for now is Turbo inlet mani and TB,injectors, then mabye a decat onto my standard exhaust (bar the straight through backbox).

what would you advise induction kit wise? it has a BMC on at the moment sat near the TB, with the pipe running to the front bumper, if i change to the parts above would i need to change this?

At the moment i have a standard ported exhaust manifold, would you advise getting anything else?

Thanks alot mate! invaluable info this!