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SR clock face scans, front and back


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After bullying the scanner to behave and a small go in Photoshop the pics are now at 100% lifesize (I think not printed them out to test).

Simply print them out as a template or draw over them in Photoshop, I've scanned the backs to so you can have a look at them. You can see the square holes in fuel/temp for the auto lights, and on the rev counter the shape that is cut out for the boost lights.

SR_Clocks_Front.jpg

SR_Clocks_Back.jpg

They only have a slight hit of blue, but they scanned up really 'glow in the dark blue' must be something in the material/ink to make it glow better. You don't really need the backs but if you decided to make a 'proper' set to replace the existing ones, instead of just a cover to go over existing them, you'd probably need the backs for the light diffusion pattern

Enjoy ;)

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The old covers that came with them were on photopaper

You want something that won't fade, and can cope with a bit of damp (condensation on those cold winter mornings), is thin enough to let the light through, but stiff enough it won't go all flappy, photopaper isn't perfect but it's nearish. Watchout printing them out, you'll need to do them at 100% and I'm sure whatever you use will be 'helpful' ;) and resize them to fit the page.

The g/f is having a go at the moment, it she gets anywhere I'll post the results up

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cool, thanks mate. i was thinking maybe that clear paper that you use for overhead projectors. dont know if that will work though as the ink may smudge.

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nice, ill have a play with them on photoshop tomorrow, and see if i can make some :( !

The ones the g/f made caused the rev needle to stick, the photopaper may of been a bit thick, however we did just put over the existing faces. I also highly recommend you do a test draft print to make sure their the right size before you use photopaper

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TRDDials-1.jpg

Had a play this is what i came up with, not sure on the size, just need some prop. paper then ill see if it works :p ACtually i think there about 1/2 cm to small grrrrr, cant sort it out :p

EDIT - Cleaned them up a bit so they look abit more white. I think these are going to be a PITA to make though.....

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nice design

Cheers, just got a few probs reli. When i print the black ones off above they are about 3mm bigger than when i print my white ones. But my white ones (printed) match perfectly with the black ones on the screen above (if you understand).

And the reli strange think is, there both made from the same image...... but they dont match....

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Regarding the dials.

The ones the g/f made caused the rev needle to stick, the photopaper may of been a bit thick, however we did just put over the existing faces. I also highly recommend you do a test draft print to make sure their the right size before you use photopaper

When you say photo paper, do you mean the stuff like from jessops, or just high qual. a4 paper. How well did the light show through? What program did you use to print them on caus mine arent the right size, the windows thing just wants to crop it.....

Cheers

It's labelled 'Glossy Inkjet Photo Paper' and has Stationary Box written on it, so own brand shiny stuff

As the needle was sticky (in hind-sight I could of made the centre hole bigger so the needle centre cover wasn't dragging, the edges might need holding down also, to prevent the edges warping up) I just took them off so don't know how well they work light-wise (as an aside the old set they came with used Kodak photopaper, I believe they were miracle411's old clocks best ask him how well they worked in the dark)

Photoshop, the g/f did them. I know she took the scans, cropped them to three separate images and printed them out using Photoshop, I remember she had to tell Photoshop to print them out an exact size to get them to work, as it was being an arse and auto resizing. I'll ask her if she can remember the sizes, but you could just measure the scan on your screen (display at 100% of course)

Also I'd recommend background around the faces before you turn them white, so it's easier to know where to get them out

I'm gonna put this in the thread also, as other people may have the same questions

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When you say photo paper, do you mean the stuff like from jessops, or just high qual. a4 paper. How well did the light show through?

Why not print them on acetates/overhead film?

That why you can specify what lights up. And if you design them really really well, you could even determine how much light gets through by using a diffusing parts of it.

E.g. If you replace the dial bulbs with blue ones, then use a diffused white for the background colour then the dials might light up like a timex watch. I emphasise might, because I'm only imagining what it might look like.

If anyone does try this let me know, cause I'm thinking of doing it in my car, eventually.

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Use a very very pale cream instead?

There is bound to be some way of printing white. What if you have black paper?

I'm not entirely sure, which is why I urge someone to give it a go and report back to us...

ill most probably give it a go....., but i thought overhead film is see through, ill have to try the pale cream to see if it makes a difference. If i do get round to doing it, ill post up the results

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  • 7 months later...

I know this is a really old post, but hey I got a question, doesn't the speedo and other dials have sides that block off most of the light shining onto the dials, I think mine are made from metal aswell.

Im just wondering how can I block off all the light and have it shining through the numbers? or most of the light.

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