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Just wondering if anyone knows if there is much involved in removing the abs system? i have done a search and couldn't find anything, any help vould be appreciated as i am thinking of doing this if it is not too hard or expensive. cheers jon

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There should be plenty of places to get a cold air feed from without taking a foglight out :)

If its a turbo you have, just relocate the filter straight off the turbo and infront of the radiator.

rather get rid of air con than abs, air con wont save your life in the need of an emergency :lol:

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the aircon went a while ago lol. the only problem i have with that idea is when i get my fmic there wont be enough room, plus if i relocate the filter down there does it not cause problems because the ct9 is shit?

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Might as well remove the brakes whilst your at it seeing as braking isn't much concern of yours! :)

i dont even have abs lol!! trust me you dont want to remove it, as it dangerous without it

si

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i dont even have abs lol!! trust me you dont want to remove it, as it dangerous without it

si

^^ lol

If you have ABS , its the only electrical aid i would ever keep OR want for that matter.

If you drive the car on the road, i suggest in keeping it chap.

And to your ct9 is shit comment, tell that to JAM racing etc, some of the companys run ct9 based starlets.

:)

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dont remove abs mate...fukin car locks up everytime i slam the brakes on a bit much...* note to self look ahead and pump brakes* oh yea do glanzas have discs all round?

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I believe it would but so would a HKS actuator :lol:

Oh and Tommy Yea they got discs all round

um, no mate, the FCC will stop fuel cut, it wont stop boost creep, using an FCC with boost creep will just mean you'll blow up the engine quicker because you'll run massive unlimited boost levels :/ nice advice there, bahahaha.

it can cause problems yeah, because the ct9's wastegate is a bit gash, but with a hks actuator and decent bit of pipework for the filter feed you may be able to control it, plus if you've got a decent manifold etc.

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I thought the cy9 gave you loads of problems if you relocated the filter behind the bumper? thats what i was getting at

If your after relocating your air filter straight off the ct9 inlet, you want to port your wastegate.

Easily done with a dremel and a bit of patience. Just remember to only take it a few mm's, and not too extreme, unless you plan on running a larger wastegate flap.

I cant remember what i ported my wastegate to, but i had the wastegate flap enlarged slightly to compensate it.

That way you can run a filter straight off of the inlet with out any creep.

You could also do what some people are running, a filter off of the inlet, with a custom made restriction filter than goes inside the samco, all though it will reduce/stop creep, it will also reduce the air flow.

most problems with creep and the ct9 is, either people are running the ct9, with standard wastegate size, along with a reducer piece of samco pipe, which will create an air vortex. where the filter end of the samco is larger than the turbo inlet side of the samco, it swirls the air into a vortex and creates creep.

in theory if you could have a piece of samco comming off the inlet the same size diameter as the filter end, it can only flow that amount of air. but there the ct9 inlet is so small, its a problem mating an air filter up to that diameter piece of pipe.

Also one reason why , you might find ct9 turbos that are totally standard internal wise, but have a much larger inlet port welded onto the intake housing. so you can run a larger samco off reducing the amount of vortexed air entering the turbo. its hard to explain.

Look at the new AEM air filter kits that are out for the hondas for instance, where there N/A , you can create a vortex inside the air pipework and it actually helps the n/a's.. turbos not so :lol:

fuel cut defencers will only stop fuel cut. nothing will stop boost creep other than either an external wastegate, or ported internal wastegate :lol:

dont know if any of the above even makes sense , it does to me :lol:

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