glanzadude Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) Ok lads as you all know i had over fenders on my car but i removed them but with doing so i was left with marks on the rear panels. I went to two local sprayers and they are looking for $$$$$ for a small job (( just a touch up )) I can not drive on the roads too as i have no insurance so my Question is how hard is it to spray a quarter panel on a glanza??I have a garage to spray the car in and I have the air compressor and ect I only have to buy the spray Gun and paintCan someone in the trade Please give me a good step by step in spraying a panel, bumper and ectWhat would be the best gun to get?What type of pant to get and how do you mix them together?I think this will save people money to as money is hard to come by thos days and panel beater are looking for big $$$$$ so if people knows how to do it them self it will save themselfs a lot off $$$ on the long runThanks lads for your timeStephen Edited April 11, 2012 by glanzadude Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lilryan Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 i work in a body shop mate and its not just a case of puting the paint on the car you need a gun a half decent gun will swt you back 100plus then gun i use cost me nearli 500quid you then need that set to the right pressure also need your paint thinners hardner clear coat pannel wipe tack cloths fade out as you wud have to blend that pannel in places then it needs to be flated and polished ect ect mate its not a hard job but not as easy as you think eaither can quite easly end up going pete tong. what were your quotes if you dont mind me asking mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
200bhp starlet Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 First time spraying I'm guessing mate ? I would of thought it would be quite hard to blend it in ? I'm not a painter tho lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lilryan Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 its not easy to blend spec when polishing after you have to be careful not to pick the blend back up or its stick out like a shore thum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 If you have never painted before then please don't bother, as it will look a lot worse as a DIY job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lilryan Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 ^^ as iddy said its better to pay the price mate than it go wrong on you and cost you double the amount Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie1st Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 If you have never painted before then please don't bother, as it will look a lot worse as a DIY job.Or at least learn on something that doesn't matter what the outcome is like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aaddzz123 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 If you wanna learn, give it a go. If you just want a good finish take it to someone that knows what they're doing... It could take you 50 trys to get it spot on and by that time you could have spend ££££ on supplies lol.... But off the top of my head!...Right! First of all you need to rough up the area plus about 6 inches to 12 inches past where you're not going to paint. Use a scotch pad or 800 wet n dry paper. Then its time to get the panel nice and smooth. You can do that by using filler and high build primer. Its a boring task getting a smooth surfance but it pays off big time in the end result if you put more time into the prep work. My biggest tip here would be to use a sanding sponge! Keep your pressure even and do long strokes... You don't want a rippley panel... You may have to do several coats of high build primer before you stop seeing high and low patches in the primer... When its completely smooth, go over it with 800 wet and dry paper (wet) to get it ready for paint... Bare in mind that the above could take you days on your first try. Don't settle for anything less than perfect! Everything is visible in the end if you don't do it right at the start... When you're happy with the affected area, you can get your paint ready. To be honest, with such a small area, I'd just get paint mixed in a rattle can with a decent nozzle. It can take a long time to get a decent set up on the compressor and gun and if you get it wrong, you would find yourself back at stage 1 sanding it all down again... You want to paint the area evenly and build layers up. Don't just go blasting it on. Do a very light dust coat to begin with and let it dry for say 15-20 seconds. And then start building your layers up.You want to make sure you cover all the primer but stay within the area that you roughed up (Those extra 6-12")Finally when its completely covered, hold the can/gun further away from the car and kinda "brush" the paint in at the edges to get your blend... I personally find it as easy as it sounds lol. Some people say its hard I guess practice makes perfect... Remember you still need to stay within that exta area that you roughed up... If need be, you can always rough it up a little further (Its just to help the paint stick... Paint doesn't stick too kindly to anything shiney!)When you're happy with your blend you can add a clear coat (Providing you didn't use a 2k paint in the gun in the first palce). You're going to want to use a 2k clear coat and hardener for this bit without a doubt... Please please read up on 2k paints before you start using them. Ideally you need an air fed mask to use it. However, I'm a retard and just use a high end respirator and big goofy goggles...When you're doing this, try and go as near the end of the rough area as you can. Make sure you're giving it light even coats and build up the clear. Don't worry if its cloudly and patchy as fuck after the first coat, it all merges and "melts" together. Wait about 30-60 seconds between each layer and keep going evenly until you have a nice smooth shiney finish.... Don't go past the rough area remember!When you've finished that, mix the rest of that clear coat that you have left in your gun to about a 1/10 ratio with thinners (what you have, x10 in thinners), Stir well and just brush out the edges of the clear coat to blend it in the best you can...When it's dry (give it a week), hopfully it will look clean and realitively smooth... Now you can flatten it down with 1500 wet and dry paper (again using the sponge) and then use compound cutter and a good polish to bring out the real shine...Bare in mind I'm not a pro... I've been doing bits of bodywork for years and know what I know from trial and error... Theres a lot of time and effort that goes into bodywork, you need to take your time and be careful of your health! 2k is nasty shit lol!Remember to use wax and grease remover between coats... Don't want fish eyes!All of this is just off the top of my head.. I've probably missed 1 or 2 vital bits of information so if you're gonna do it, only use this as a rough guide lol. Might be worth getting a few books on it or watching some videos online... Loads of information out there to get started.... Its hard work though. Be prepared lol! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StarletMad Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 If you going DIY Upol High #5 is a nice primer As above Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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