Alignment settings

[A L 3 X]

Getting full alignment done on Monday, anyone got the correct or decent settings for a Glanza for decent road handling but without eating tyres too quickly?

Also my camber clearly ain't equal at the hubs ATM so would I be being a tosser if I expected them to equal both hubs out to 0 then dial in Camber from the Meisters top plates to keep everything uniform?

[A L 3 X]

Someone please?

[Amjad]

-1.2 Camber, max castor, 0 toe

[A L 3 X]

That a decent fast road setup?

I assumed toe in a to a

Slight degree was good, but I'll go with what's proven lol

Also, what you reckon to me

Asking them to make it neutral at the bottom and then dial in camber at the top, is that acceptable or do they usually just do it at the top therefore leaving it unequal?

[AdamB]

Don't believe you can adjust camber at the bottom mate, unless you have camber bolts, they only give you max 1.5 degrees anyway which can be done on the top mount if required.

[A L 3 X]

I'm sure you must be able to because there is some slight movement of the hub allowed when those bolts are loose?

Also, my front passenger side tyre has worn on the outside but the drivers side ain't, and I've had tracking done the old fashioned way?

Unless I'm getting something g confused lol

[Liam_D]

Hey mate, we used to set them too -1.5 degree camber and then set the toe to neutral. Ive ran this on my own car for a few years now and it handles awesome.

[A L 3 X]

Nice one mate as both setups seem similar I'll choose that, what you say for castor Liam?

Also, can you advise on the question about hub and top mount adjustment?

[Liam_D]

We used to adjust at the hubs first and then tweak it with the top mounts if that makes sense.

Castor was just a set amount on our Hunter computer system, so just used to make sure that was green on the screen. However i dont think you can adjust the castor unless you get aftermarket castor arms?

[morgey]

i know what u mean by the hub movement, i just pushed both of mine right in (they looked very even) so it had a small amount of camber with the top mounts neutral then just added (im guessing - 1 deg on the topmounts) im yet to have any major alignment doing, just tracking for now. but even like this it handles really well

[A L 3 X]

Yeah you two know what I mean, so should I get them to do as you say Liam? And would that be to dial in as much neg camber on the bottom as I choose?

And how will -1.2 or -1.5 affect tyre wear?

Edited September 16, 2012 by A L 3 X

[Amjad]

Castor can be adjusted if you have an Anti-Lift/Castor kit

-1.2 and my tyres are wearing evenly, I asked the dude who did mine if it was a nice amount and he said it wouldn't really affect wear much if at all

[A L 3 X]

Ah bollocks maybe I should of got one of them first? Oh well lol

N ah cool, ill probs go for that then or ask them, one thing though, this place is like a laser alignment centre but dont mention modified cars, will they accept my own settings?

[morgey]

They should do, if not then there not very good, my local STS asked if i wanted some specific settings when i told them i was going on track and they usually stick to the books.

As for getting the hubs set straight first, it might be a good idea just so everything is straight and aligned in a 100% neutral position.

[A L 3 X]

Nice one well I'll probably tell em not to bother of

They dont allow me to, and yeah that's what I meant, I'll ask them to do that also

[Liam_D]

-1.5 you get very mininal tyre wear dude, i have noticed the insides wearing on mine more than the rest of the tyre but thats epected with negative camber.

[A L 3 X]

I had them done at -1.2 just to be safe as I never really throw the car in corners anyway....

One thing tho, I forgot to ask em to align the rear Cusco panhard, so it's still just aligned from when I did it with a tape measure, is that gonna have fucked the alignment setting they used as it was a proper 4 wheel place? I don't think many places touch the rear panhards anyway

[Liam_D]

A proper place would of adjusted that first and then adjusted the front settings. However theyre computer system probably didnt tell them it was adjustable.

[A L 3 X]

Nah and I forgot to tell them, shit have I wasted my

Money then? :/

[morgey]

It will be better than it was

the rear panard will always change tho depending on whats in the car, i mean if you add yourself thats 70+ kgs plus 35-40 kgs of fuel thats going to move it slightly :/ not by much but a little bit if it was somewhere near then i wouldnt worry

[A L 3 X]

Yeah I set it pretty much perfect, think I left it like 0.5cm

To the passenger side to cater for it moving to the right over bumps, so

It's just about bang on as 0.5cm

With a tape

Measure from

Wheel to

Chassis is nothing...

As long as it handles well enough and doesn't scrub the tyre then I'm happy?

[morgey]

You've done more than me mate and I've had some fun with my mates evo 6!

Get out there and enjoy it dude

[A L 3 X]

Haha that's good then, I just worry too much as I tried to prepare and get it perfect researching toe and camber settings, then I forgot this lol :/

[morgey]

Haha i literally stuck my coilovers on added "some" camber to the top mounts ALK is set in the middle by eye no measuring there lol had the tracking done and have enjoyed it ever since.

Alway said id get a full geo done but until i fit my front most poly bushes im not going to bother as everything will be changed again :/

[A L 3 X]

Haha and how's tyre wear been? I had my tracking done with the old light gauge and left camber as it was, seemed ok but seemed to scrub the n/s front outside of the tyre so I thought I'd get this done and get them

To add some neg camber, I assumed the toe was right from that tracking but after having the print out apparently they were toeing out like 1.5 degrees :/