steve-gers Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I am going to be changing from auto to manual within the next month hopefully and am trying to get all the parts together for it.I would like to know if the common loctite 243 will do the job for the pressure plate and gearbox bolts and also if the small 3ml tube will do or if I will need a 50ml bottle?Also I will be getting the flywheel that is coming machined as I have a new clutch but was wondering how much material I could get taken off before it becomes to thin and heats up too quickly and if it is possible to lighten the standard item at all and if so how? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I've never bothered loctiting my clutch or flywheel before, not saying its not worth doing and more so if you're running big power but aslong as its torqued down properly it shouldnt be that important. But you only need 1 or 2 drops normally if you do.Regarding the flywheel aslong as its a engine builder they should know how much material they can safely take off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 While it is all off, I think I will just fire some on for piece of mind although as you say it will most probably be fine without.Won't be an engine builder doing it, just a local machine shop but should be fine if I just get the to take a skim off the face? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Yea they can skim the mating face and they can also create a small step away/down only like 0.3mm on the outer edge where the clutch pressure plate mates up. This is what i had done to my old one and it slightly increases the pressure of the standard clutch.Bit more of a bite and solid feel on the clutch. I guess this would decrease the life of the pressure plate but i doubt its much to worry about. I you can have material removed from the back of it but without knowing what can be done or having it balanced i wouldnt recommend this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Ok thanks very much for your help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Remember that when using a locking based lubricant it will adjust the torque setting you need to torque bolts/studs to. Hence why ARP send out their own lubricant with their bolts/studs and specify torque settings for their own brand and loctite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 That's something else that I could do with is the torque settings for any bolts that will be removed in the conversion such as flywheel, pressure plate........etc if anyone has them please? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I dont have them but you will need the manual flywheel bolts as they are longer than the auto bolts. Not sure if you knew that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Yeah, got them on the way from a guy on tgtt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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